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Thread: Oil Advice And Recommendations Here

  1. #1501
    Member BLAKTOOTH's Avatar
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    Hello Oilman,

    I have a Kaaz 1.5 way fitted to my S14 track car, running 400bhp+. I've been running the recommended 80W90 oil (Gulf GL-5 not Kaaz) and a Greddy baffled/extended diff plate but I'm spitting oil out the breather. I've read that Castrol Syntrax LSD 75W140 is the stuff to use as what Kaaz recommend is too thin, is this true?

    Lee
    Last edited by BLAKTOOTH; 23-06-2015 at 15:00.
    TRUST/GREDDY TD06 20G HYBRID WITH TURBOSMART RACEPORT BOV AND HYPER-GATE 45, 260 PRO CAMS, BC VALVE SPINGS, COMETIC HG, NISMO 740CC INJECTORS, APEXI D JETRO, BLK AVCR, APEXI N1 ExTi, AEM INDUCTION, APEX RAD, CUSTOM HMIC, BC RM COILOVERS, STRUT BRACES, FULL ROSE JOINTED HARDRACE ALIGNMENT KIT, FULLY POLY BUSHED WITH POWERFLEX BLACK, WHITELINE ARB'S, VIBRA-TECHNICS ENGINE & TRANNY MOUNTS, SOLID REAR SUBFRAME BUSHES, OS GIKEN 1.5 WAY 3.9 ON POLY BUSHES, RPS 6 PUK PADDLE, DW FLY, GTR GOLD BREMBO'S WITH PF PADS, XXR 530 ALLOYS 18X9.75 ET20, BOMEX FR BUMPER & CUSTOM SPLITTER, SEIBON CARBON BONNET, BOMEX SKIRTS, JDM REAR & SPATS, SRB +20MM WINGS + FLARES & +50MM REARS, BGW ON CUSTOM LEGS AND MOUNTS TO RR QTR, FABRICAGE 6 POINT...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Si View Post
    Also,
    Damping = controlling oscillation.
    Dampening = pissing your pants.

    THE BLAK BEASTY PROJEKT

  2. #1502
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    Hi Lee

    That's a bit odd, oil out the diff breather is not something we come across often, but someone mentioned it the other day. Annoyingly, I can't remember any details. Kaaz diffs are pretty popular and all the ones I can think of use a SAE90, 75w-90 or 80w-90 with no issues. How long has the oil been in there for? From what I can remember, the oil changes for Kaaz diffs are pretty frequent, something like 1000 miles if I remember correctly. Perhaps trying a 75w-140 LSD oil will sort it out and the Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip, Gulf Gear LS, Red Line 75w-140 GL5, Fuchs Sintopoid LS, Motul Gear Competition and Millers CRX NT LS are good options.

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-674-75w-140-gear-oils.aspx

    Cheers

    Tim
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  3. #1503
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    I'm gonna be "that" guy and ask about gearbox oil again. Looking to replace it again in my s13

    First, the Internet rumours of gl5 breaking down syncro's? Is there any truth to it?

    Second, I run redline mt90 gl4 75w90. The box feels notchy and generally like it doesn't want to sync. Is that to do with the oil (some Internet forums say redline is notchy) or my syncro on the way out?

    Third, what oil would be good for my low powered, 25,000 mile s13? Want to try the redline lightweight shockproof but am abit put off by the gl5 rating

    Cheers

  4. #1504
    Member BLAKTOOTH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman View Post
    Hi Lee

    That's a bit odd, oil out the diff breather is not something we come across often, but someone mentioned it the other day. Annoyingly, I can't remember any details. Kaaz diffs are pretty popular and all the ones I can think of use a SAE90, 75w-90 or 80w-90 with no issues. How long has the oil been in there for? From what I can remember, the oil changes for Kaaz diffs are pretty frequent, something like 1000 miles if I remember correctly. Perhaps trying a 75w-140 LSD oil will sort it out and the Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip, Gulf Gear LS, Red Line 75w-140 GL5, Fuchs Sintopoid LS, Motul Gear Competition and Millers CRX NT LS are good options.

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-674-75w-140-gear-oils.aspx

    Cheers

    Tim
    Thanks for the speedy reply Oilman. The oil has only just gone in, again (Gulf Gear LS SAE 80W-90 LSD Gear oil), but same problem as before running same oil. Strangely I didn't notice it with the original Kaaz lubricant. Anything to do with the Kaaz oil being mineral based hypoid stuff instead of synthetic? Seeing as I have a tin of that here I think I'll stuff it in and see if the problem persists. If I have no joy with that I'll grab some heavy 75W140 off you and give that a bash. Bloody car, always something to fix/improve/modify/tinker with...

    Lee
    Last edited by BLAKTOOTH; 24-06-2015 at 08:03.
    TRUST/GREDDY TD06 20G HYBRID WITH TURBOSMART RACEPORT BOV AND HYPER-GATE 45, 260 PRO CAMS, BC VALVE SPINGS, COMETIC HG, NISMO 740CC INJECTORS, APEXI D JETRO, BLK AVCR, APEXI N1 ExTi, AEM INDUCTION, APEX RAD, CUSTOM HMIC, BC RM COILOVERS, STRUT BRACES, FULL ROSE JOINTED HARDRACE ALIGNMENT KIT, FULLY POLY BUSHED WITH POWERFLEX BLACK, WHITELINE ARB'S, VIBRA-TECHNICS ENGINE & TRANNY MOUNTS, SOLID REAR SUBFRAME BUSHES, OS GIKEN 1.5 WAY 3.9 ON POLY BUSHES, RPS 6 PUK PADDLE, DW FLY, GTR GOLD BREMBO'S WITH PF PADS, XXR 530 ALLOYS 18X9.75 ET20, BOMEX FR BUMPER & CUSTOM SPLITTER, SEIBON CARBON BONNET, BOMEX SKIRTS, JDM REAR & SPATS, SRB +20MM WINGS + FLARES & +50MM REARS, BGW ON CUSTOM LEGS AND MOUNTS TO RR QTR, FABRICAGE 6 POINT...
    MAPPED BY MARTIN @ MB AUTOMOTIVE
    Quote Originally Posted by Si View Post
    Also,
    Damping = controlling oscillation.
    Dampening = pissing your pants.

    THE BLAK BEASTY PROJEKT

  5. #1505
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    Hi Lee

    The Gulf Gear LS 80w-90 is a mineral oil, we often recommend it instead of the Kaaz stuff as it's similar.

    Cheers

    Tim
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  6. #1506
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboywill View Post
    I'm gonna be "that" guy and ask about gearbox oil again. Looking to replace it again in my s13

    First, the Internet rumours of gl5 breaking down syncro's? Is there any truth to it?

    Second, I run redline mt90 gl4 75w90. The box feels notchy and generally like it doesn't want to sync. Is that to do with the oil (some Internet forums say redline is notchy) or my syncro on the way out?

    Third, what oil would be good for my low powered, 25,000 mile s13? Want to try the redline lightweight shockproof but am abit put off by the gl5 rating

    Cheers
    Hi

    The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

    There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass.

    It's a bit odd that the MT90 isn't working very well for you, it normally really helps gear shifts, so perhaps trying the Lightweight Shockproof would be a good idea.

    Cheers

    Tim
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  7. #1507
    Member BLAKTOOTH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman View Post
    Hi Lee

    The Gulf Gear LS 80w-90 is a mineral oil, we often recommend it instead of the Kaaz stuff as it's similar.

    Cheers

    Tim
    Hmmm? Well, I'll see if the Kaaz stuff stays in and if/when it doesn't I'll try some thicker gear.

    Thanks
    Lee

    Edit: MT90, I never got on with this stuff in my box. Was horrible from cold. Switched back to Nissan oil and the box was happy again. I'm now running Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing box oil.
    Last edited by BLAKTOOTH; 24-06-2015 at 10:24.
    TRUST/GREDDY TD06 20G HYBRID WITH TURBOSMART RACEPORT BOV AND HYPER-GATE 45, 260 PRO CAMS, BC VALVE SPINGS, COMETIC HG, NISMO 740CC INJECTORS, APEXI D JETRO, BLK AVCR, APEXI N1 ExTi, AEM INDUCTION, APEX RAD, CUSTOM HMIC, BC RM COILOVERS, STRUT BRACES, FULL ROSE JOINTED HARDRACE ALIGNMENT KIT, FULLY POLY BUSHED WITH POWERFLEX BLACK, WHITELINE ARB'S, VIBRA-TECHNICS ENGINE & TRANNY MOUNTS, SOLID REAR SUBFRAME BUSHES, OS GIKEN 1.5 WAY 3.9 ON POLY BUSHES, RPS 6 PUK PADDLE, DW FLY, GTR GOLD BREMBO'S WITH PF PADS, XXR 530 ALLOYS 18X9.75 ET20, BOMEX FR BUMPER & CUSTOM SPLITTER, SEIBON CARBON BONNET, BOMEX SKIRTS, JDM REAR & SPATS, SRB +20MM WINGS + FLARES & +50MM REARS, BGW ON CUSTOM LEGS AND MOUNTS TO RR QTR, FABRICAGE 6 POINT...
    MAPPED BY MARTIN @ MB AUTOMOTIVE
    Quote Originally Posted by Si View Post
    Also,
    Damping = controlling oscillation.
    Dampening = pissing your pants.

    THE BLAK BEASTY PROJEKT

  8. #1508
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    Hey oilman,

    What oil would you recommend for my daily, 2003 toyota corolla 2 litre d4d. I have been recomended 15w40 by my local motor factors and my handbook recommends 5w30 fully synthetic??? There is 145k miles on the car! Any help appreciated, thanks

  9. #1509
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    Hi

    My data lists 5w-40 or 10w-40 for it, the oil recommendation was probably updated after the handbook was printed.

    I would use a 5w-40 synthetic as the best option.

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-656-5w-40.aspx

    Out of those, the best ones are the Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S, Millers CFS/CFS NT, Motul Sport/300V, Red Line and Gulf Competition. The Motul 8100 X-Cess, Millers XF Longlife, Fuchs GT1 XTL/Supersyn, Gulf Formula G/ULE, Shell Helix and Mobil Super 3000 are good, cheaper alternatives.

    As a budget choice, a 10w-40 will be fine and I would either go for the Fuchs Syn MC, Shell Helix, Millers Trident/EE Nanodrive, Castrol Magnatec, Mobil Super 2000 or Motul 6100

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-657-10w-40.aspx

    Cheers

    Tim
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  10. #1510
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    Thanks Tim, much appreciated

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    Hi,

    I've got a pretty standard s13 which I do 2-3k miles in a year. I changed the oil last summer with Motul 300v. What's the maximum amount of time you can go between oil changes as I'm never going to reach any substantial mileage to warrant an oil change.

    Cheers

  12. #1512
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    Hi

    Hate to say it as the 300V is barely used, but you should really change it annually as the additives in it will break down due to oxidisation. You can stretch it a bit, but to keep the best protection, I wouldn't go longer than about 15 months.

    Cheers

    Tim
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  13. #1513
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    yep, thats what i thought

    Ahh well, better get some new oil ordered then

    Cheers

  14. #1514
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    Ok so new engines on the way, car is used primarily for drifting (usually no more then a few laps before cooling down).

    Was going to go with "Silkolene PRO S 10W-50 Ester Synthetic Oil" for the engine oil but think I'll go with something a bit cheaper and thinner this time. My crank seal went on last engine, not saying the thicker oil caused it but I don't see the need for 10-50?

    Whats second best to Titan Pro that doesn't cost a fortune. Is there any oil for around £30 (instead of £55) that's not too bad?

    I'm not sure what oil you'd reccomend for the gearbox whilst it's out also? Please advise.

    Also, I'll stick a new oil filter on obviously and some fresh coolant.

  15. #1515
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    Hi

    Any idea how hot the oil is getting while drifting? Is the power up much over standard?

    Cheers

    Tim
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  16. #1516
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    Hi oilman,

    What's the real life differences between running a lower 'w' number compared to a higher? From what I'm led to believe the lower the 'w' or winter number is, the thinner the oil is when cold so should provide better protection from cold starts? If this is true surely you want the lowest w number possible with the correct hot number for your engine e.g. Ow-40.?

    What's the benefit from running a 10-50w? Is it just better hot protection?

    I'm basically trying to decide what will be best for my ca18det after I turn up the boost from standard

  17. #1517
    Member Rochester's Avatar
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    I'm very interested in using the Evans waterless coolant..... Had flyers from Demon Tweeks and Eurocarparts etc, but would rather buy from you as a) trusted and b) generally cheaper
    Will you be listing it any time soon ?

  18. #1518
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    Hi

    It's not something we'll be selling unless we hear some better things about waterless coolants. This is something that we received from Red Line a little while ago and it makes sense to us, although it basically refers to the American market.

    Many concerns have been raised to us in recent months regarding the effectiveness of Waterless coolants and the inherent dangers they may possess. We have spent some time researching the product and would like to make all our customers aware of our findings.

    Waterless products are 100% glycol, some are 100% propylene glycol, and others are a mix of propylene glycol and ethylene glycol. They are slippery when spilled or leaked onto tarmac. Assuming a baseline friction co-efficient reference of 1.00 for dry pavement, the friction co-efficient of water is 0.65. The friction co-efficient of Waterless products is 0.16, four times less than water. Some race circuits in America are now prohibiting the use of engine coolant that contains ANY glycol due to this fact.
    The other and more pressing reason that Waterless products are prohibited at race circuits is that they are flammable. With flash points in the range of 110-130°C if the Waterless coolant were released at or above the flash point, it could ignite. Coolant temperatures can be observed in this range during actual operating conditions, making this a real risk. Reports have also been made of damage caused by glycol coolant fuelled fires, in some instances, destroying whole cars and resulting in thousands of pounds worth of damage.
    The NHRA rule change regarding glycol coolants was the result of a terrible fire where the competitor was using Waterless coolant in his car. The engine pushed a head gasket and the coolant caught fire which came under the seat resulting in a cockpit fire. Glycol coolants are now prohibited in the NHRA. In another case the Motorsport South Africa ASN prohibited the use of glycol on safety grounds “In the case of both cars and motorcycles, the use of glycol-based coolant additives is prohibited.”

    In addition, the operational downside is the decreased ability to transfer heat compared to water based coolants. Waterless coolant should never be advised in applications where heat issues are apparent, Waterless coolants will only compound this problem as they lack the necessary heat transfer properties to provide a solution.
    Although the product is a very good corrosion inhibitor, it will not adequately protect an engine when overheating. The Waterless coolants cannot transfer heat as efficiently as water, thus causing an engine to run hotter. The engine will continue to run hot until a critical component fails as the boiling point is so high.

    To summarize:
    Engines can run 45-60°C hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Waterless products.
    Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 15-25°C, versus straight water with Water Wetter.
    Specific heat capacity of Waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.
    Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers reducing engine horsepower by 4-5%.
    Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.
    Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity.
    Race circuits are starting to prohibit Waterless products because they are flammable and cause a slippery surface hazard when leaked.
    When speaking to a classic car specialist recently the subject of Waterless coolants was brought up.A Waterless coolant manufacturer had given them product sponsorship ahead of classic Le Mans 2012, in FP1 the car stopped on track with smoke billowing out of bonnet. On closer inspection the coolant had plasticized and warped the head, the coolant then passed through the head gasket hydraulic locking cylinder one. The damaged cause was very costly and ended the team’s weekend early, it is not a product they would recommend or use again.

    Cheers

    Tim
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  19. #1519
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboywill View Post
    Hi oilman,

    What's the real life differences between running a lower 'w' number compared to a higher? From what I'm led to believe the lower the 'w' or winter number is, the thinner the oil is when cold so should provide better protection from cold starts? If this is true surely you want the lowest w number possible with the correct hot number for your engine e.g. Ow-40.?

    What's the benefit from running a 10-50w? Is it just better hot protection?

    I'm basically trying to decide what will be best for my ca18det after I turn up the boost from standard
    Hi

    Yes, the thinner the oil is when cold, the faster it flows when cold and the better cold start protection you get, but there are some reasons why not all oils are a 0w.

    The bigger the gap between the cold and hot viscosity of the oil, the more polymers are required to maintain the viscosity difference. Polymers can be sheared by the action of the engine, meaning that a 0w-50 could become a 0w-40 or 0w-30 fairly quickly. A 15w-50 or 20w-50 is likely to stay in grade until you take it out.

    Another thing is that with some older engines, it can sound like a bag of spanners on cold starts if the oil is too thin. With forged builds (where the tolerances are larger), a 0w oil is likely to lead to piston slap on cold starts.

    In reality, the UK doesn't get cold enough to need lower than a 5w (except in a couple of vehicles that have odd oil requirements).

    In a CA18DET with the boost increased, a 10w-50 is likely to be ideal for hard use or a 5w-50 if it goes out in really cold weather.

    Cheers

    Tim
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  20. #1520
    Member Rochester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oilman View Post
    Hi

    It's not something we'll be selling unless we hear some better things about waterless coolants. This is something that we received from Red Line a little while ago and it makes sense to us......


    .....aaaand that's why you are trusted.

    Many thanks for that, I shall keep my money safely in my wallet.

    Cheers

    R

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