Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Any guides for fitting oil pressure take off for a gauge?

  1. #1
    Guest Adam-Murse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Teesside
    Posts
    284
    Rides
    0

    Any guides for fitting oil pressure take off for a gauge?

    I've done some googleing. So far I've found info on using some sort of adaptor which would also feed an oil cooler.

    I'm not scared to tap into the block or anything, I just want the engine I built to be closely watched. I poured all my savings into the engine and if it failed I cant afford to fix it sniffle

  2. #2
    Guest big_mac's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    glasgow
    Posts
    3,758
    Rides
    0
    I got a braided line made up to relocate the oil pressure switch and added a to piece which allows me to fit a gauge sensor. The benefit is it removes engine vibrations and improves the life of the sensor.


  3. #3
    Guest Sean-B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    2,467
    Rides
    0

    Any guides for fitting oil pressure take off for a gauge?


  4. #4
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Fleet, hants
    Posts
    317
    Rides
    0
    I bought an adaptor to try and fit it where the stock switch is. Found it impossible to get in there with everything in situ! May be possible with the inlet Mani removed/engine out

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

  5. #5

  6. #6
    Guest big_mac's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    glasgow
    Posts
    3,758
    Rides
    0
    Can get one made at a hydraulic place for cheaper than that.

  7. #7
    Guest Sean-B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    2,467
    Rides
    0
    You don't need an adaptor at all? It's easy to fit it in the stock location.

  8. #8
    Guest big_mac's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    glasgow
    Posts
    3,758
    Rides
    0
    Then the oil pressure light won't work and engine vibrations will kill the sensor. For the sake of a few quid it's better to relocate it and run both sensors imo

  9. #9
    Guest Sean-B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    West Midlands
    Posts
    2,467
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by big_mac View Post
    Then the oil pressure light won't work and engine vibrations will kill the sensor. For the sake of a few quid it's better to relocate it and run both sensors imo
    By the time the stock oil pressure light comes on it's too late anyway. And as for engine vibrations killing senders I doubt it doesn't affect every other sender on the engine does it.

    Although for a few quid extra if that's the case it's each to there own. Certainly not a big job either way.

  10. #10
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    44
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean-B View Post
    By the time the stock oil pressure light comes on it's too late anyway. And as for engine vibrations killing senders I doubt it doesn't affect every other sender on the engine does it.

    Although for a few quid extra if that's the case it's each to there own. Certainly not a big job either way.
    I agree... Light comes on after you've lost pressure. Not as you start to loose pressure. I removed the factory sender on my SR and put an aftermarket that came with the gauge in its place. 12 years later and that sender is still working.

  11. #11
    Guest
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Kent
    Posts
    1,884
    Rides
    0
    I've got mine in a sandwich plate.The sensor has been bashed about for about 5 years, is currently held together with solder and tape, and still works fine. Relocating the lot is unnecessary imo

  12. #12
    Guest big_mac's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    glasgow
    Posts
    3,758
    Rides
    0
    It's entirely up to you what you do, the majority comment on how inaccurate the oil and water temperature gauges are as standard, perhaps it's a sign that the sensor tolerances are a bit different from a gauge, after all its designed to give an accurate reading rather than a ballpark.

    The oil pressure light is a good indication of what is going on, am engine can idle with it on without any real damage, the damage occurs under load or high revs so to say the standard switch is useless is inaccurate. You can if desired fit a higher pressure switch but for me the best thing to protect your engine is a warning light

  13. #13
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    44
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by big_mac View Post
    It's entirely up to you what you do, the majority comment on how inaccurate the oil and water temperature gauges are as standard, perhaps it's a sign that the sensor tolerances are a bit different from a gauge, after all its designed to give an accurate reading rather than a ballpark.

    The oil pressure light is a good indication of what is going on, am engine can idle with it on without any real damage, the damage occurs under load or high revs so to say the standard switch is useless is inaccurate. You can if desired fit a higher pressure switch but for me the best thing to protect your engine is a warning light
    Here is a scenario for ya...

    Your oil pump has failed. You have 0psi oil pressure & your oil pressure light is on. But you can let the engine idle away without any "real' damage?

    Again. The stock, OEM, factory oil pressure sender does not work as a "warning". Warning would = Advance notice you are "ABOUT" to loose pressure. It tells you "AFTER" you lost pressure.

    You want an actual warning go buying a Defi setup http://www.defi-shop.com/products/en...r/summary_dlm/ And actually set warnings @ desired readings.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •