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Thread: Useful threads - Please Check Before Asking a Question

  1. #81
    Guest Si's Avatar
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    Extended wheel stud info:
    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php...5&postcount=10

    I can tell you 100% these are the right ones - well, my wheels haven't fallen off yet anyways. You'll need 1.5 pitch (toyota/mazda etc) nuts though.

  2. #82
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    Anyone got a how to for repositioned the wiring harness in the drivers side front wing.

    Polo has given me some advice but wanted to see if there is a how too, if not then ill sort one out when I do mine

  3. #83
    Guest Si's Avatar
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    New boost leak test how to:
    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=425257

    Now with added pretentiousness.

  4. #84
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    induction kit link is broken

    sound proofing the rear is also broken

  5. #85
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    Hardwire Walbro fuel pump
    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=437460
    You must have a relay with no diode for this to work.

  6. #86
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    sort out airbag light after installing aftermarket steering wheel

    Quote Originally Posted by chipper View Post
    I did mine on my skyline a couple of weeks ago...

    How to cure the airbag light staying on after changing your Steering Wheel. I found out how to do this from looking on a few different sites . This method worked for me so anyone should be able to do it I used a Hicas boss kit HKB NO-204 on my R33 GTST because the airbag connector in the kit was different to the one on my car. But it should work for any Hicas Boss kit.

    You will need a 2.7ohms resister which can be bought from Maplins (Code M2R7)
    Solder the Resistor across the to wires from the Airbag loom (i cut the socket off) and shield with electrical tape or Heat shrink.

    Leave the drivers door open

    Then turn ignition on so all dash lights are on but do not start engine.

    When you have turned the key to that point press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times rapidly in succession,( within 7 seconds of turning ignition lights on)

    Now the airbag light will flash at a different rate to before!
    1 long flash followed by 2 short flashes ( the diagnostic system is now registering the fault in the airbag system)
    Now turn the ignition off and close the door.

    Now open the door again

    Turn ignition on again until all dash lights are on but do not starting the Engine.

    Now quickly press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times in rapid succession.

    Now the air bag light SHOULD start flashing at a single rate ( the diagnostic system is now registering that the airbag circuit is now working correctly)

    Turn the ignition off , and remove the key, now close the door.

    Turn the ignition back on and the airbag light should go out after a few seconds.

    Job Done...Hope this Helped

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuddy View Post
    Any non-working links on the first post pointing to http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/kuddy/200sx

    can now be found at http://kuddy.net/200sx
    Just followed your fuel pump guide to fit a new sock for the pump - working perfectly - thanks - a job well done

  8. #88
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    exhaust DB levels / loud / loudness

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=199909

  9. #89
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    S14a headlight adjustment with pictorial guide: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...43#post5562643

    Done because I don't pay attention and try to do things whilst half asleep.

  10. #90
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    Diff Shimming guide

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...=shimming+diff

    Once you have shim'd your diff, leave a reply in the guide of what shim/s you used and how it feels.

  11. #91
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    Does anyone have the whiteline alignment guide as the link in post 72 of this thread no longer has that alignment table for sport, race et cetera?

  12. #92
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    HID fitting - may be of some help

    I wrote this over pm for a member..

    may be of some help.. if not, ignore... fitting for a HI LOW beam to a s14


    Pah! late lunch!

    okies,

    well, on my HIDs I had, in cluded in the box;

    2 x bulbs with 3 conectors coming out of them

    2 x ballast packs

    simple wiring loom with inline fuse!



    To fit,

    first of i replaced the bulbs, if you are doing a direct swap on you HI / Lo switched bulbs, it is just a case of

    swapping these over. remove the headlight ( or squeeze em in if you prefer lol) unclip the U shape clip holding the

    bulbs in.

    The bulb unit may be in two pieces, the bulbs have there own mounting system which attached to the normal bulb

    holder... this is kinda hard to expplain! best bet is, make sure the bulb is all together and simply fit it in... once its

    in, you will find you can simply push and twist and the HID bulb will come out... be care, if you remove it (whilst its

    on) and it touches anything... shit starts to smoke! ( not from experience...much )

    Once both ya bulbs are in, find a good place to locate the ballast packs. mine are located on the batteray tray (

    my FMIC pipework means i have a 1/2 sized batt, and obv the intercooler pipe goes through the tray, this left

    enough space to cable ties ( win ) a ballast pack to it. Some people have mounted it behind the washer bottle..

    just get it out the way and pref in a place that doesnt get wet.

    On the other side i located it between the expansion tank and the front bit of the car... tbh, locate it where you

    like... this has worked for me.

    Okies, now attach the bulbs to the ballast packs,

    this should be straight forward, most HID kits ( from my experience) use 3 connectors for each bulb. fit em

    thogether ( you cant go wrong, they only fit into each designated connector so you cant make a mistake)


    The OLD WIRING LOOM

    the old plug for the lights may only fit on one side, on my car it only fits onto one of the ballast packs

    the packs are linked and i guess it obviously just uses this as a signal wire.

    yours may differ slightly, but i guess you wil be able to work that out... chances are it may connect into both...

    now, my HID kit may differ here, but it attaches directly to the battery - with an inline fuse
    after this, i had to earth both ballast packs... the live feed only went to one ballast pack, the feed from one ballast

    to the other ( have i said fit that yet...? if not... fit it ) carries the powers



    fyi, my car never gave me any grief after fitting.

    i did spend 10mins with cable ties making it all look tidy and hiding the wires, as they go from one side of the car

    to the other.

    if your ballast packs make a high pitch / buzzing noise ..this is all good... they do that... its cool

    like i said, really sorry if i missed sumit, text or pm me and ill take some pics for ya

    good luck! should really take much more that 1hr ..including removing lights and tidying up...

    Cheers

    Matt

    p.s = sorry for my spelling


    Quote Originally Posted by clive


    would be awesome if you could mate




    Quote Originally Posted by SX_BIG
    erm, i jsut got into work, when its my lunch ill write ya out a breif instruction from how i fitted

    em... can always send you some pics of my setup too if ya like?



    Quote Originally Posted by clive
    i got some... but no instructions! lol

    cant peace together how they go... any clues?

  13. #93
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    Heater Fan Speed Control Repair.

    Heater Fan Speed Control Repair.

    Speed settings 1, 2 and 3 stopped working. Only speed setting number 4 was working.

    The fix for this is literally a 5 minute job.

    - Kneel on the ground at the passenger side sill and lean into the passenger footwell.

    - Look up under the dash behind where the glove compartment is.


    - You will see the brown plug- unclip this.




    - Undo the two screws holding in the resistor card.

    - Pull the resister card down. It is inserted into the dash through a credit card style slot.




    - Replace the card with a new one.


    Or

    - In the case of mine, the solder link was corroded and had lost connectivity.




    - Clean with alcohol and a scrub with an old toothbrush.

    - Clean up the old solder and circuit contacts gently with a flat blade or fine sandpaper.

    - Rebridge the gap with fresh solder. Use flux if you have it.

    - Clean with alcohol and scrub with an old toothbrush.

    - Refit.
    Last edited by markcro; 01-02-2011 at 15:59.

  14. #94
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    I bought a second one to have as a spare from an S14 and it is a slightly smaller card with a different p/n but does the exact same job:




  15. #95
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    Heater Fan Speed Control Repair.


  16. #96
    Guest Sharpy's Avatar
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    Well done on the heater fix write up

    Now I know what to look for

  17. #97
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    woops
    Last edited by Davemc; 15-03-2011 at 11:59.

  18. #98
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    Picture of modified standard re-circ valve. Cut up a bit of thick plastic. Glued it into place with acrylic two part glue. When taking off the screws, make sure you use a 100% properly fitting phillips screwdriver. They are on there tight, and if the head of your screwdriver doesn't engage properly it's bad news for the screws.

    Last edited by [EOCF] Tim; 18-03-2011 at 11:52.

  19. #99
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    Thanks for the heater Write up!, I was faffing around with the actual heater dial itself till I read that and reaslied it was actually in the footwell

    still, got it out whole thing was corroded, cleaned it up resoldered the joint and all 4 settings work now, magic

  20. #100
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    What does the mod yo recirc do?? Is it the small hole you block up?

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