Extended wheel stud info:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php...5&postcount=10
I can tell you 100% these are the right ones - well, my wheels haven't fallen off yet anyways. You'll need 1.5 pitch (toyota/mazda etc) nuts though.
Extended wheel stud info:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php...5&postcount=10
I can tell you 100% these are the right ones - well, my wheels haven't fallen off yet anyways. You'll need 1.5 pitch (toyota/mazda etc) nuts though.
Anyone got a how to for repositioned the wiring harness in the drivers side front wing.
Polo has given me some advice but wanted to see if there is a how too, if not then ill sort one out when I do mine
New boost leak test how to:
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=425257
Now with added pretentiousness.
induction kit link is broken
sound proofing the rear is also broken
Hardwire Walbro fuel pump
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=437460
You must have a relay with no diode for this to work.
sort out airbag light after installing aftermarket steering wheel
Originally Posted by chipper
Just followed your fuel pump guide to fit a new sock for the pump - working perfectly - thanks - a job well done
exhaust DB levels / loud / loudness
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=199909
S14a headlight adjustment with pictorial guide: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...43#post5562643
Done because I don't pay attention and try to do things whilst half asleep.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...=shimming+diff
Once you have shim'd your diff, leave a reply in the guide of what shim/s you used and how it feels.
Does anyone have the whiteline alignment guide as the link in post 72 of this thread no longer has that alignment table for sport, race et cetera?
I wrote this over pm for a member..
may be of some help.. if not, ignore... fitting for a HI LOW beam to a s14
Pah! late lunch!
okies,
well, on my HIDs I had, in cluded in the box;
2 x bulbs with 3 conectors coming out of them
2 x ballast packs
simple wiring loom with inline fuse!
To fit,
first of i replaced the bulbs, if you are doing a direct swap on you HI / Lo switched bulbs, it is just a case of
swapping these over. remove the headlight ( or squeeze em in if you prefer lol) unclip the U shape clip holding the
bulbs in.
The bulb unit may be in two pieces, the bulbs have there own mounting system which attached to the normal bulb
holder... this is kinda hard to expplain! best bet is, make sure the bulb is all together and simply fit it in... once its
in, you will find you can simply push and twist and the HID bulb will come out... be care, if you remove it (whilst its
on) and it touches anything... shit starts to smoke! ( not from experience...much)
Once both ya bulbs are in, find a good place to locate the ballast packs. mine are located on the batteray tray (
my FMIC pipework means i have a 1/2 sized batt, and obv the intercooler pipe goes through the tray, this left
enough space to cable ties ( win) a ballast pack to it. Some people have mounted it behind the washer bottle..
just get it out the way and pref in a place that doesnt get wet.
On the other side i located it between the expansion tank and the front bit of the car... tbh, locate it where you
like... this has worked for me.
Okies, now attach the bulbs to the ballast packs,
this should be straight forward, most HID kits ( from my experience) use 3 connectors for each bulb. fit em
thogether ( you cant go wrong, they only fit into each designated connector so you cant make a mistake)
The OLD WIRING LOOM
the old plug for the lights may only fit on one side, on my car it only fits onto one of the ballast packs
the packs are linked and i guess it obviously just uses this as a signal wire.
yours may differ slightly, but i guess you wil be able to work that out... chances are it may connect into both...
now, my HID kit may differ here, but it attaches directly to the battery - with an inline fuse
after this, i had to earth both ballast packs... the live feed only went to one ballast pack, the feed from one ballast
to the other ( have i said fit that yet...? if not... fit it
fyi, my car never gave me any grief after fitting.
i did spend 10mins with cable ties making it all look tidy and hiding the wires, as they go from one side of the car
to the other.
if your ballast packs make a high pitch / buzzing noise ..this is all good... they do that... its cool
like i said, really sorry if i missed sumit, text or pm me and ill take some pics for ya
good luck! should really take much more that 1hr ..including removing lights and tidying up...
Cheers
Matt
p.s = sorry for my spelling
would be awesome if you could mate
erm, i jsut got into work, when its my lunch ill write ya out a breif instruction from how i fitted
em... can always send you some pics of my setup too if ya like?
Heater Fan Speed Control Repair.
Speed settings 1, 2 and 3 stopped working. Only speed setting number 4 was working.
The fix for this is literally a 5 minute job.
- Kneel on the ground at the passenger side sill and lean into the passenger footwell.
- Look up under the dash behind where the glove compartment is.
- You will see the brown plug- unclip this.
- Undo the two screws holding in the resistor card.
- Pull the resister card down. It is inserted into the dash through a credit card style slot.
- Replace the card with a new one.
Or
- In the case of mine, the solder link was corroded and had lost connectivity.
- Clean with alcohol and a scrub with an old toothbrush.
- Clean up the old solder and circuit contacts gently with a flat blade or fine sandpaper.
- Rebridge the gap with fresh solder. Use flux if you have it.
- Clean with alcohol and scrub with an old toothbrush.
- Refit.
Last edited by markcro; 01-02-2011 at 16:59.
I bought a second one to have as a spare from an S14 and it is a slightly smaller card with a different p/n but does the exact same job:
Well done on the heater fix write up
Now I know what to look for
woops
Last edited by Davemc; 15-03-2011 at 12:59.
Picture of modified standard re-circ valve. Cut up a bit of thick plastic. Glued it into place with acrylic two part glue. When taking off the screws, make sure you use a 100% properly fitting phillips screwdriver. They are on there tight, and if the head of your screwdriver doesn't engage properly it's bad news for the screws.
Last edited by [EOCF] Tim; 18-03-2011 at 12:52.
Thanks for the heater Write up!, I was faffing around with the actual heater dial itself till I read that and reaslied it was actually in the footwell
still, got it out whole thing was corroded, cleaned it up resoldered the joint and all 4 settings work now, magic
What does the mod yo recirc do?? Is it the small hole you block up?
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