I ditched the blocks and soldered on some blade terminals. The downside is that each connection has to be individually insulated. I did have to remove the traction control unit, and it took a bit longer, but I know that the connections are secure.
I ditched the blocks and soldered on some blade terminals. The downside is that each connection has to be individually insulated. I did have to remove the traction control unit, and it took a bit longer, but I know that the connections are secure.
My brother reckons he's got a few dozen of these, and I think that they will be preferable to just connecting the supplied metal pieces togetherI ditched the blocks and soldered on some blade terminals
dependant on the weather (yeah right) I will be attempting this on Friday or Sunday. But I've seen the forecasts and they aren't good
Finally got round to fitting mine today.
I've set it up according to this guide.
But the problem is the car won't rev more than 2Krpm whilst driving!!
What have I done wrong?
Did you get one of the pre-mapped ones form Bren or have you mapped it all yourself?
Kp
I tweaked the settings according to the guide on this thread.
I got it on a previous group buy.
I just went out in the car but this time with the laptop disconnected and it let me rev more than 2K. Does it limit the revs when a real time test is on?
So going round a round about, I gave it some welly and ended up doing a 180. The setting was on wet and it was wet out. So now it looks like its not working at all!!
Reading the manual right now to try and figure out whats going on.
havent got data logging enabled or something have you?
OK, I managed to get it sorted.
I don't know why it wasn't working this morning and and I ended up the wrong way on the roundabout. Totally stumped.
Just went out and hooked up the laptop and reloaded the paramters from the TC ECU and they were as I set them yesterday. Did a real time test and it was reading fine (although the readings from each wheel was vastly different).
Stopped the test, switched off engine and on again and it wouldn't let me rev over 2K again.
So hooked up the laptop and repeated the whole procedure without the test, but this time increase the min diff dry and wet values by 0.5 each (read that somehwhere on a post).
Took the car out and gave it another test on the wet setting (still a bit wet outside) and I felt it cut in a couple of times on some hard straight accelerations. Then plucked up the courage and wait to be the only car on a big roundabout and floored it in 2nd and it cut in nicely. Few more corners and kept the pedal to the metal and it didn't oversteer at all!!
Now its working properly - its apparent how good a device it is!!
Only concern I have is trusting whether its always working! I keep thinking, what if I floor it and it doesn't kick it!! Just better take it easy until I get used to it and do the occasional test in safe areas with no other cars around (just to make sure it still working).
Questions - how does the TC ECU keep the settings? If I disconnect the car battery, do I have to reload the settings?
Do I keep always keep the serial/diagnostic cable plugged into the TC ECU all the time and leave the ends dangling somewhere or connect it up only when I need to plug the laptop in?
Cheers
Didin
Same as the ECU of you car, you can disconnect that and it would not lose all its settings, when we had our group buy Bren mapped them all and then sent them all out in the post - all turned up still mapped.
They prolly have solid state memory like a digital camera - take the card out and the photos remain in a readable format.
Kp
You can leave the diagnostic lead plugged into the TC unit at all times, even when not using the laptop.
My current config works really well, so if you need a copy I'll email it to you.
Rajmo - I would like a copy to try.
Kp
Opps yopu might need this - kriss@drod.dns2go.com
Thanks
Sent m8Originally posted by Boost Junkie
Rajmo - I would like a copy to try.
Kp
Opps yopu might need this - kriss@drod.dns2go.com
Thanks
Yes please. That would be great. Thanks mate.Originally posted by Rajmo
You can leave the diagnostic lead plugged into the TC unit at all times, even when not using the laptop.
My current config works really well, so if you need a copy I'll email it to you.
please send it to d1ddn@yahoo.co.uk
Cheers
Didin
Another one sent Ooh, I'm so in demandOriginally posted by Didin
Yes please. That would be great. Thanks mate.
please send it to d1ddn@yahoo.co.uk
Cheers
Didin
Just fitted my digital controller system Noticed that there was an error with the injector wires - pin 103 is green/black whilst pin 110 is yellow/black other than that, the guide was perfect
Is there much difference for fitting it on my S13?
Originally Posted by Purple Weasel
if your s13 has ABS then no, should be the same.
just get the pinout charts for your car and away you go
I fitted it on my S13.
Can someone email me a copy of Rajmo's config, please?
da_weasel55@hotmail.com
Thanks
Right, i'm gonna give this a go tomorrow
I've read the thread & studied the manual & i'm fairly confident. Being that i'm fitting this to an RB ECU there are obviously differences that i'd like people to confirm
Firstly, a couple of questions.
With the injectors wiring does it matter which colour is connected to which injector so it cuts in sequence?
Here's what I have so far..
INJECTORS
TC ECU
Red Pin 1
Orange Pin 12
Grey Pin 3
Green Pin 13
Yellow Pin 2
Pink Pin 11
TACHO
TC ECU
Black/White Pin 7
Also, I have 2 ABS sensors on the GTT diff. Thus I think the settings will be:
TC ECU
Red RED
Blue WHITE
Yellow Rear Left sensor
Green Rear White sensor
Silver Shielding wire??
I notice in the guide above that it's not specific on which wire is the left/right etc... Does this not matter also?
Thanks for any help you can give me
anybody got teh pdf version of this? I can print it out then to take with me when I fit mine in the not too distant future
The pdf is available from race logics site if i remember correctly.