I think this should be in here, refurbing lifters
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=99989
I think this should be in here, refurbing lifters
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=99989
its not a thread and i dont know if its a repost but this might be usefull to have in here
http://vldrifta.com/howto/afm.html
Afm Wiring guides
This is a sticky thread for useful answers rather than questions. Your best bet is to start your own thread either in Tech S13 or the ICE sub-forum.Originally Posted by crawleycruise
Kev, are you sure u got the right link for fitting the GTR FMIC ?
fitting gtr fmic:-
http://www.dist.biz/top.htm
?
My hosting finished when I stopped that business so I no longer have a web page.
The info is all in my blog but most of the photos have dissapeared.
www.200sxblog.blogspot.com
Cheers
Steve
ABS removal
http://www.sxoc.co.uk/vbb/showthread...ht=abs+removal
seems to be asked a lot, some usefull pics in here
Hi,
I few things I've found that might be of use to others -
Inner Diameter (ID) of the coolant hoses to and from the rad are 34mm
There are two thermostats listed for the car with Nissan
Part 21200P7906 - 88Deg C for Cold weather countries
Part 21200P7901 - 82Deg C for UK
I have yet to find a cooler one for an uprated engine
Cheers,
Craig
the 82c one works absolutely fine in my CA20 mate.
the 82 is when its fully open, not when it starts to open.mine stays between 80 and 82 on anything except drifty fun
any one got one for fitting a oil cooler to a CA18DET?
Not to the best of my knowldege mate, but its fairly straight forward.
Remove oil filter (so best to be doing an oil change at the same time)
Bolt on sandwich plate with hoses going to oil cooler and see where oil cooler will sit (by length of the hoses) while getting air flow then make up some brackets and fit oil cooler, then tighten everthing up.
And when u put new oil in, u will likely need 4 liters of oil rather than 3.5 as normal due to the cooler
Good thread for finding the contact details of a place that sells replacement s13 sills a lot cheaper than nissn does.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=347904
Walbro fuel pump fitting
thought this might be useful for some
http://www.northwestnissans.com/boar...ad.php?t=16655
How to rebuild a T25 or T28 turbo with lots of pics woohoo
http://www.sr20-forum.com/forced-ind...pic-heavy.html
Last edited by minimotonitrous; 22-09-2009 at 13:01.
link not working mate becouse of the ....
ok fixed somehow now
I fitted my replacement starter motor today so while I did it I thought I would do a guide to help anyone else.
The symptoms for my failure were the ignition lights on but nothing else. I had no problems with the car starting just got some petrol one day went to start it again and nothing. As advised on here I tapped the starter and it started once so that confirmed it was the starter motor
I wasn't even sure what the starter looked life before mine failed so here it is below
1. first disconnect the battery
If you look at the front of the car the starter is located on the left of the plenum (see photo)
If you look down the side of the plenum you will see a large black Y shaped black bracket which supports the plenum
I have ringed one of the bolts for this bracket and there is another to the left and two more at the bottom (bit fiddly to get to)
2. Remove this bracket
Here is what it looks like when removed
3. Once you find the starter remove the spade connector and the left hand side connector (the other connector connects the actual starter to the solenoid so can be left in place. I have ringed the connector in the photo below and the small arrow shows were it connects
Some people remove the starter from above but I found it easier from below. Jack up car of course supporting with axle stands.
4. From underneath you need to be were the gearbox connects to the engine. Once you find the starter (keep bonnet open for light) Remove the two bolts that hold the starter in place.
The first bolt is fairly easy to get to (ringed in photo) but the other bolt is a bit more awkward. I have marked it approx location with the yellow arrow as you cannot really see it and its done by touch. But it is do-able and I just used a normal socket set.
Once you start to remove the bolts the starter will start to drop as its fairly heavy and this can make the bolts harder to remove so you may need to support it. Once the bolts are removed you can then get out from under the car and remove the starter from the top.
To refit its basically the same in reverse but add some oil to the threads of the bolts so they go back in easily and be patient. You will need to place the starter from the top and get under the car to fasten it again. Also you may need to support the starter until you get the bolts in (I used my trolly jack handle)
Once you have bolted it from underneath you then can reconnect the connector from above. Then reconnect the battery and check if it starts. All being well you can then replace the large black Y shaped bracket and jobs done
Last edited by The Artist; 05-10-2009 at 08:31.
Hi
I was looking of youtube how to bleed the clutch system and came across this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
I didnt use it my self as Jay20 helped me do mine, but it might help someone else.
since my last post I have used this method and it works a treat... really cuts the time down.
Found this to be a good read
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offset_(wheel)
Ca18det tuning guide I found could be useful for some of you guys
http://nscw.kolhoos.ee/eng/ca18det
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