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Thread: Ca18det help? splutters and bogs on boost

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    Ca18det help? splutters and bogs on boost

    Had my car in for a bit of welding a picked it to find it running like a bag of bones, idles at 1200 then drops down to 800 noticed it drops down to 200 nearly stalling when I turn the blowers on, car revs fine in neutral can redline it but when driving as soon as I start to build boost it breaks up and starts spluttering makes a quiet poping noise when's it's spluttering struggle to get it to rev past 3.5k unless change gear and keep it out off boost any one any suggestions ?

    Since it's happened I've replaced fuel pump to walbro,changed fuel filter,fuel pressures as should be, plugs gapped to .9,changed afm,coil-packs,fitted new fmic, adjusted cas back to standard position, coolant temp sensor, hardwired fuel pump.

    Anyone had the same problem ?
    Thanks in advance

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    When you say adjusted cas back to standard position did you use a timing light and set it to 15degrees?

    Sounds like a boost/vac leak, i know you say you have fitted new fmic but still a possibility!

    Leak between maf and turbo? Leaky inlet gasket?

    When the welding was dome was the battery disconnected?

    What mods does it have and what boost pressure?

    Hardwired 255lph
    Fmic
    Ngk bcpr 6/7 es gapped to .9

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    No the cas was off a couple mm so turned it couple mm anti clockwise to centre it haven't got a timing light, no leaks that I can find but possibility, we'll I was told it was disconnected also tried a new ecu to see if it had been fried, stage 1 chip,bcpr 7,filter, mongoose 2" exhaust, boosts set at 15,best way to test for leaky inlet ?

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    You really need to set the timing properly with a timing light 1st of all 15degrees isn't necessarily central on the slots.

    I would be testing all of your pipework from maf to inlet. Pressurise it all to a bar then pour soapy water around all joints and inlet gaskets

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamz View Post
    No the cas was off a couple mm so turned it couple mm anti clockwise to centre it haven't got a timing light, no leaks that I can find but possibility, we'll I was told it was disconnected also tried a new ecu to see if it had been fried, stage 1 chip,bcpr 7,filter, mongoose 2" exhaust, boosts set at 15,best way to test for leaky inlet ?
    Run the car, spray starter fluid on areas where theres couplers/gaskets and if revs rise you got a leak

    Could be maf ?

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    Will try get my hands on one and check again, will check inlet for leaks today, already replaced maf but no difference

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Spraying starter fluid is a really crap way of doing it tho! That will only show if you have any BIG vac leaks it won't necessarily highlight a boost leak at all.

    To properly test the system it needs to be pressurised or and a smoke test done.

    Wish people would stop advising people to spray starter fluid, brake cleaner or whatever else on everything it really is such a half arsed crap way of achieving anything.



    It could be many things but you need to set your timing correctly 1st then start ruling things out.

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    Spraying starter fluid is a really crap way of doing it tho! That will only show if you have any BIG vac leaks it won't necessarily highlight a boost leak at all.

    To properly test the system it needs to be pressurised or and a smoke test done.

    Wish people would stop advising people to spray starter fluid, brake cleaner or whatever else on everything it really is such a half arsed crap way of achieving anything.



    It could be many things but you need to set your timing correctly 1st then start ruling things out.
    Reason behind my suggestion was since it MUST be a big leak he should use starter fluid, that will at least help him get back on the road. Not everybody has an air compressor at home and thats an easy & quick way to rule out any major leaks..

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay1017 View Post
    Reason behind my suggestion was since it MUST be a big leak he should use starter fluid, that will at least help him get back on the road. Not everybody has an air compressor at home and thats an easy & quick way to rule out any major leaks..
    Fair point, just seen so many people do it n be like yeeaaa i got no boost leaks and never bother doing a proper test.

    You can do it with a tyre pump if you can hook it up!




    Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    How are your vac lines hooked up on/around the plenum?

    Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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    Vac line goes from fpr to rear of plenum

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamz View Post
    Vac line goes from fpr to rear of plenum
    What about boost gauge and boost controller

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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    What about boost gauge and boost controller
    Boost gauge is hooked up to front of plenum and manual boost controllers hooked up from actuator to turbo, checked last night for leaks couldnt find any tried all couplers n inlet
    Last edited by jamz; 13-07-2017 at 07:51.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamz View Post
    Boost gauge is hooked up to front of plenum and manual boost controllers hooked up from actuator to turbo, checked last night for leaks couldnt find any tried all couplers n inlet
    Try your manual boost controller. I had a leak with my first one and it caused so many problems. Replaced about 5 things before I realised it was that, take it out and run just actuator to turbo!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jay1017 View Post
    Try your manual boost controller. I had a leak with my first one and it caused so many problems. Replaced about 5 things before I realised it was that, take it out and run just actuator to turbo!
    Tried it without the boost controller when I went back to standard ecu was still the same, noticed there was no movement in my actuator think it might be that

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    I'd put money on it being the timing. Get it strobed up before you waste any more time looking at other stuff. CAS shouldn't be centred. Take off for strobe needs to be a short HT lead on cylinder 1.

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