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Thread: What paint / procedure should I do under the car?

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    What paint / procedure should I do under the car?

    Hi!

    I have an S14a. As I'm going to shine up under the car. Have some loose rust. This is a Sunday car that should not be driven in the winter. This is mostly going to car hits.

    My question is:

    What paint / procedure should I do under a car?

    I going to sandblast where there is some rust. And use deco gel

    Also want a black color under the car.

    Read something about SEM rust trap (all in one product) But this is not delivered as a spray can

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    I done the underside of my S14a a few months back. I don't care about looks, just about rust proofing. I treated any surface rust with rust converter, then sprayed with zinc under coat. Hammerite paint. And then I sprayed Waxoyl over the entire underside. Not underseal, actual Waxoyl. I only used underseal in the wheel arches. And Waxoyl in the upper wheel arch around the shock turret. And injected Waxoyl into the chassis rails etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by markcro View Post
    I done the underside of my S14a a few months back. I don't care about looks, just about rust proofing. I treated any surface rust with rust converter, then sprayed with zinc under coat. Hammerite paint. And then I sprayed Waxoyl over the entire underside. Not underseal, actual Waxoyl. I only used underseal in the wheel arches. And Waxoyl in the upper wheel arch around the shock turret. And injected Waxoyl into the chassis rails etc.

    Like this:

    1) Wire brush down to bare metal / sandblast and apply Hydrate 80
    2) Prime with Electrox
    3) Seamseal (sikaflex)
    4) Prime with Electroc (seccond coat)
    5) full gloss 2K body pain
    3) 3M™ Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black ( under the car )
    Last edited by knutarn; 24-01-2022 at 17:20.

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    Quote Originally Posted by knutarn View Post
    Like this:

    1) Wire brush down to bare metal / sandblast and apply Hydrate 80
    2) Prime with Electrox
    3) Seamseal (sikaflex)
    4) Prime with Electroc (seccond coat)
    5) full gloss 2K body pain
    3) 3M™ Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black ( under the car )
    Yes. Bilt Hamber rocks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Yes. Bilt Hamber rocks.
    It really does.

    But I am not convinced with underseal or schultz. I had mine professionally done a few years back and it does crack over time and then moisture creeps under it but is hidden. So this time I went with just Waxoyl so that I can keep an eye on it and touch up each year if needed. It can also be cleaned off in seconds with white spirits or WD40. I don't think that there is a 100% way and it is certainly a pandora's box for argument!

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    Quote Originally Posted by knutarn View Post
    Like this:

    1) Wire brush down to bare metal / sandblast and apply Hydrate 80
    2) Prime with Electrox
    3) Seamseal (sikaflex)
    4) Prime with Electroc (seccond coat)
    5) full gloss 2K body pain
    3) 3M™ Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black ( under the car )
    You normally use Electrox after all the rust is removed - sand blasting or Deox Gel/C. Applying it over hydrate 80 does nothing for protection - it's in the instructions, that it needs fresh clean metal to bond chemically.
    Instead of Electrox just use Epoxy-Mastic or any other 2k epoxy primer.

    Lately I've got pretty good experience with Dinitrol ML + 4941.

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    Quote Originally Posted by m17ch View Post
    You normally use Electrox after all the rust is removed - sand blasting or Deox Gel/C. Applying it over hydrate 80 does nothing for protection - it's in the instructions, that it needs fresh clean metal to bond chemically.
    Instead of Electrox just use Epoxy-Mastic or any other 2k epoxy primer.

    Lately I've got pretty good experience with Dinitrol ML + 4941.
    Like this?

    hydrate 80 on rust and bar metall (no rust)
    Epoxy mastic
    Seam Seal
    Full Gloss 2k
    3M™ Body Schutz Rubberized Coating Black

    Wil this work?

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    I agree with markcro other than the waxoyl... Wirewheel anywhere crusty back to bare metal (you might get more than you expect when you start digging) then k-rust or whatever rust preventative you want to us, etch primer those areas and then couple coats of black hammerite all over and you should be sorted. No need for extra layers of underseal imo, its just more likely to hold water between them. Some of the early welding I done on my 14 about 5/6 years ago was still solid when I sold it a few months ago and that's all I done, bearing in mind the car lived outside.

    The main problem is actually getting all the rust to start, all well and good covering it over with loads of layers of whatever but if the inside of the sill/rear pockets etc are rusty on the inside it will still eat its way through eventually (which is then a pain to deal with if it's covered in sticky sholtz or waxoyl). For example if you drop the subframe or whatever in the future.

    Basically spend longer stripping parts and repairing any welding that needs doing first time around (which if it's a UK car extends very quickly) and make sure it's done properly, then you can spend less time and money coating in underseal materials. Good luck!

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    This is the underside of mine with black Waxoyl sprayed on. This is normal Waxoyl, not Waxoyl's underseal. So it is just a waxy coating, and it will eventually wash off. But that will allow me to keep an eye on things and touch up where needed. And you can literally wash it off with a can of WD40 if you need to.
    And yes, if I touch it I will have a dirty greasy hand/ head. But that doesn't bother me. I want the dirty greasey sh1te to just kill/ prevent rust.

    But as drc said, getting rid of the rust in the first place is the best place to start.


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    That Lanoguard looks very good. It seems to set so that it looks near invisible.
    But on the underside I don't mind how it looks. I also use a home made used oil/ grease mix in the past that lasted over 10 years.

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    pretty much on the final stages of completing under body repairs and rust proofing, followed the sr autobodies way of doing it, rust cut out/repaired, metalflux rustisol to cure any surface rust spots that cant be repaired, epoxy prime, seam seal, 2nd epoxy prime,upol gravtex then black (chassis black i think they used) top coat , but i am very tempted to top coat with the lanoguard when everything is bolted back , just want an extra clear coat that will help to keep everything cleaner, seems a quick job to do. cant find any bad reviews all seem positive

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