Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: "Delan" 200sx - first ever project car

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    8
    Rides
    0

    "Delan" 200sx - first ever project car

    Hi all,
    I decided to keep my S14a for a long time and give all my love to it.
    My welcome post + a short story is available here: https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....0sx-new-owner)

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    I plan to keep this car stock with a few minor changes. They all will be revertable to its stock condition.
    I am also a newbie in the car repair/restoration thingy, so that I will count a lot for your help. So please excuse all my silly questions.

    When I purchased the car - the previous owner told me there is no VVTI rattle, but sadly today - when I started the engine after a few days - I could hear the strange rattling noise at the very beginning of the engine start. It has gone away after 2 seconds, but I presume that is not a good sign.

    I live in Leicester.
    Fortunately, there is a garage that actually owns silvias and regularly drifts on a track, and they know a lot about them.
    So I decided to drop my car at their garage for a full and general health check, including engine condition, etc.
    I will find out on Wednesday, fingers crossed.
    I will keep this thread updated when I will make any progress in the project.

    Here is my plan:

    1 - Bring the engine and turbo to their best condition
    2 - Check gearbox and clutch - repair if necessary
    3 - Get nicer wheels
    4 - Maybe some power increase mods (revertable, of course)
    5 - Repair any corrosion spotted
    6 - Enjoy


    Thanks in advance for your time and help!

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Dublin, Ireland
    Posts
    1,832
    Rides
    0
    Lovely! :-)

    Just as a note on the VVT rattle: I have owned my SX for 16 years, 12 of those years as my only car and so was my daily driver. On start up, engage 1st gear, rev to pull away, and sometimes I would get, but not always, VVT rattle which would disappear after 2 seconds. Presumably as the oil pressure is stabalised. But it could sound nasty.

    So my cure:
    - Start car, clutch, raise revs 100 or 200 rpm, select 1st gear, put back to neutral.
    - Clutch, select 1st gear, just feel out the throttle by raising the rpm slowly by a few rpm.. No VVT rattle. :-) Fully raise revs and pull away.

    Sounds like a faff, but it only takes a few seconds, and I have done this for 16 years and counting and the engine is sweet as a nut.
    Last edited by markcro; 28-06-2021 at 13:35.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    8
    Rides
    0
    Hi all,
    Thanks, markcro, for the info!

    I have some good news after the car health check at RG Motors Ltd in Leicester.
    The engine is in fantastic condition with a good cylinder compression tested at 160,158,158,160
    Guys told me there is no vvti rattle - I was a bit overacting in this
    Some bushes to be replaced - will go with the softest poly bushes, I think?
    bush.jpg

    Rocker gasket cover - new seal required, a little leak from the turbo, and small leak from the power steering pump (probably, as it needs investigation)

    General corrosion is minimal, with only 2 spots where needs attention soon.

    They told me that it is the best example they ever seen (they seen a lot of them as they do drifting regularly and obviously they service other cars too)


    Then about the power increase, I will definitely want to do something to feel a bit more kick

    We have also done a dyno run to prove the power which came out as expected for a good condition engine.


    dyno.jpg

    Guys told me what are the main mods to be made for stage 1, but I am happy to read your pieces of advice on what I could do to gain power and revert to stock if needed.

    Thanks a lot, and have a great evening!
    Last edited by tommyveldel; 03-07-2021 at 19:04.

  4. #4
    Guest
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Cheshire
    Posts
    45
    Rides
    0
    Looks like a great car.
    All depends how much you want to spend, most things can be reverted back to stock if you desired. I would start by asking yourself what you want to use the car for and how much power you want/can handle.
    If there is any rust start there, get rid of it as quickly as possible.
    As for the wheels, personal choice my friend.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Helston, West Cornwall
    Posts
    24,411
    Rides
    0
    Wheel choice will be limited by the shape of the rim and offset rather than wheel size. A lot will fit with small (5mm) spacers with the standard 280x30 brakes and it does the look no harm to be a bit more spaced out in the arches. Go with hubcentric spacers though as otherwise you can get trouble with wheel imbalance. If you are not lowering it, you should be able to get most wheels under the arches but check for arch rubbing as there is wiring under there that causes all sorts of problems when it wears through. Going above 18s is going to affect the ride and make it less practical as a road car in the pot-hole infested UK. Try to get sturdy wheels too as otherwise they will get knocked out of shape by potholes. Rotas are solid aftermarket wheels and reasonably priced.

    If replacing bushes, try to replace with standard if you are keeping it as a road car. Poly will always result in a less sophisticated ride (move noise and less smoothness).

    Bravo for planning to keep it fairly standard. That's the best way to protect your investment.

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    8
    Rides
    0
    Hi All,
    thanks for you great advice! Appreciate a lot!
    So the things are going to start rolling with this machine I am in need to replace the clutch as well, and i am happy to spend a bit more than for a standard clutch.
    I have been advised that ACT Organic Clutch is the way to go if i think about increasing the power, i have also done my own research and i have found NK01T722 (Exedy Sports Paddle)
    What do you think?
    In regards to the power i found out the minimal mods required for Horsham Dev Stage 1a are ok for me and the power in range of 280 hp will be great for my car and my skills of driving. I am unsure if for the stage 1a is essential to add front intercooler or just recommended?

    Generally i will be using the car as my daily. Saying daily i probably will use it 3 times a week as i also have something called a bicycle to commute to work, which i often do to save on putting too many miles on the classic car clock.

    Going back to the maintenance - the car has no significant rust spots, it is not spotless but the condition of the body and seals are great - the garage where i left it for health check told me this is the best example they ever seen in their garage and there is nothing to worry about!

    So, going forward - i would like to go for polybushing on the subframe + diff mounts + front lower arms.

    Then there is a crank shaft rear seal to replace (this will be done with the clutch replacement) and i wonder if maybe go a bit farther and replace the flywheel with a lightweight one?

    Thanks for your time and happy to read your input!

  7. #7
    Now with 400bhp....
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    South west
    Posts
    36,280
    Rides
    1
    Act hd organic was the best clutch I ever had in mine. Nice stock pedal feel and holds decent power. Found the exeedy organic to have a heavy pedal and it didn’t handle the power well. I wouldn’t use a paddle clutch on a daily.

    https://h-dev.co.uk/product/act-hdpe...-kit-ns1-hdss/
    South west Events and local meet info. See here


    My car on THRLL: http://thrll.com/car/1998-nissan-200sx-12410
    Chris Cooke Photograpy: https://www.facebook.com/ChrisCookePhotography
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Helston, West Cornwall
    Posts
    24,411
    Rides
    0
    Organic clutch. Paddle's are grabby for everyday use.
    Light weight flywheel more likely to cause problems than solve them and will make the car less driveable on the road.
    If you replace bushes with poly it will make the ride less pliant again detracting from a road car. Apex used to do adjustable arms with rubber bushes and they worked well on my car.
    FMIC will be better at cooling than the OEM WMIC which is quite restrictive BUT some are a complete pig to fit and require cutting of the front end bodywork so select with care. Again, I think Apex used to do a Type 2 FMIC that avoided cutting of the bodywork. Maybe pick one up secondhand ?

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    8
    Rides
    0
    Thank you both for another great piece of advice!
    Will go with ACT organic clutch and will leave the flywheel stock.

    Going back to the bushing, i have found this: https://strongflexuk.com/product-cat...via/s14-94-99/
    and wonder if they are any good?

    I dont mind to have more sporty feel on the road in a daily use if the car. But i read that there is not recommended to replace all the bushing and i am sure there is a lot of true facts in that.
    Can you maybe advise which bushes i should replace to poly and which i definitely should leave rubber?
    Thanks again and have a grat day!

  10. #10
    Now with 400bhp....
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    South west
    Posts
    36,280
    Rides
    1
    Personally I’d start with the 4 main subframe bushes and the front tension/traction rods whatever they’re called. If the cars feeling floaty they are normally the ones that cause that feeling. Front lower ball joints are also something worth looking at.

    I can’t comment on strongflex as have no experience.
    South west Events and local meet info. See here


    My car on THRLL: http://thrll.com/car/1998-nissan-200sx-12410
    Chris Cooke Photograpy: https://www.facebook.com/ChrisCookePhotography
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •