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Thread: Guidance on supporting locations on chassis - where do I jack?

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    Guidance on supporting locations on chassis - where do I jack?

    So I'm finally getting round to sorting the rust out on the shell ready for a conversion.
    However, to get the thing up in the air I'm having to jack it up and support it as best I can so I can be safely underneath. Sadly, the rusty metal isn't filling me with confidence.

    The front has been lifted with an engine crane and has axle stands and an 8x3 timber supporting.


    The rear is an issue as I want the subframe out. I've put another piece of 8x3 at one end to lift and when flexed the floorpan bends too - I don't want to damage it so where is best to support?



    Where's the strongest/thickest metal for me to support so I can drop the subframe and get underneath without worrying about the damn thing collapsing?
    I've got ramps, stands, jacks etc so happy to be overkill if it keeps me safe. Have grinding and welding to do so the easier and safer the better!

    Thanks.

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    i always jack the front of the cars up on the towing eyes either side of the radiator support panel.if you have a decent jack take the spinney pad thing off and the tow hook fits nicely in the top of the jack. then i put axle stands under the front lower arms, swap the jack to under the subframe then jack up higher then put the stands under the support panel.

    whilst the back end is in jack it up on the diff.

    if you have a welder and some decent box section then weld up something that is shaped like [ and shove the ends into the back of the chassis rails and stick stands under that.

    althouh if the bottom of the car is bad and you think it will take a while i would just roll the shell on its side.

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    Thanks for the reply!

    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    i always jack the front of the cars up on the towing eyes either side of the radiator support panel.if you have a decent jack take the spinney pad thing off and the tow hook fits nicely in the top of the jack. then i put axle stands under the front lower arms, swap the jack to under the subframe then jack up higher then put the stands under the support panel.
    The front end seems fairly stable - the massive timber is behind the firewall with the crane acting as a backup round the bumper bar but there's no suspension at the front. The whole thing is being "de-rusted" so it's bare as bare can be.

    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    whilst the back end is in jack it up on the diff.
    Done this, doesn't get high enough and it's not a flat surface under the jack so I'm loathe to use blocks to raise it but I've given it a go anyway

    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    if you have a welder and some decent box section then weld up something that is shaped like [ and shove the ends into the back of the chassis rails and stick stands under that.
    Welder yes, skills to use it no. Certainly not enough to be confident I've done a good enough job to support the weight of a car while I'm under it.

    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    although if the bottom of the car is bad and you think it will take a while i would just roll the shell on its side.
    This has gone through my mind a few times - I'm not confident I know what I'm doing though. Typically the car is right next to a fair hill and knowing my luck... I've seen people in the distant past weld braces in the door frames etc so what is considered acceptable?

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    Guest WTFIA's Avatar
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    As green_rs13 has said, looking at your pics the car is an S13? so the rear fuel tank is blocking access to rear chassis rails from underside. Remove the rear bumper and insert some scaffold bar down each one and support with axel stands there. This location would support the weight well as when me and my bro needed to move our bare shell around we would lift the car with one person in the engine bay and one using bars through rear chassis legs, you will have all the room you could need underneath then.

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    i seen a 240z being restored once and they built 2 big wooden picture frame squares, bolted them to the subframe mounting points and rolled it onto its side. (picture the car being encapsulated inside 2 giant wooden square wheels).

    learning to weld on rusty cars whilst upside down certainly makes it more challenging.

    the front bumper mounting parts on the chassis are strong enough to take the weight of the shell. when i put mine onto the spit i made brackets that fitted their, and went with tubes up the rear chassis legs and it was rock solid.
    if i didnt have a spit i would probably make some big wooden trestles high enough to walk under.
    Last edited by green_rs13; 13-06-2021 at 09:28.

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    learning to weld on rusty cars whilst upside down certainly makes it more challenging.

    given how bad my welding was upside down compared to when you're more comfortable, I'd take this advice I'd spend a fair bit of time making sure it's in the 'right' position, jig, rotisserie, spit, whatever - I wouldn't try and half arse it anymore.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    learning to weld on rusty cars whilst upside down certainly makes it more challenging.
    I won't be doing any of the welding, I'll be bringing some talent in for all that - it's just the nasty stuff, grinding, coating etc I'll be doing. There's enough significant chunks missing to warrant a professional

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    Quote Originally Posted by WTFIA View Post
    As green_rs13 has said, looking at your pics the car is an S13? so the rear fuel tank is blocking access to rear chassis rails from underside. Remove the rear bumper and insert some scaffold bar down each one and support with axel stands there. This location would support the weight well as when me and my bro needed to move our bare shell around we would lift the car with one person in the engine bay and one using bars through rear chassis legs, you will have all the room you could need underneath then.
    Sounds like this could be a winner. Easy for me to get to an lift plus plenty of solid ground at the back!

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