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Thread: Block to clutch measurement

  1. #1
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    Block to clutch measurement

    Hi all,

    I'm using a CA18DET gearbox in my 1967 Ford Anglia, hooked up to a Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 engine. I've been having some issues with the clutch side of things, and I'm looking at removing my adapter plates & flywheel spacer, and making a custom bell housing (I have a spare 200SX bellhousing and a spare Mitsubishi one, so I'll cut & shut them together).

    However, I could do with an important measurement to make sure that I get things in the correct place!


    That being the distance from the engine/gearbox mating face to where the release bearing hits the clutch cover fingers (for a standard clutch).


    Cheers all!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    I can't help with the measurements, I don't have a CA in the car anymore but yknow that the release bearing carrier that rides on the input shaft has about 10 interchangeable variants for different Nissans?

    what's the issue with the clutch?

    https://osgiken.co.jp/pdf/clutch-manual_en.pdf

    https://www.osgiken.co.jp/pdf/0911os_rc-manual-en.pdf

    the JDM clutch manuals have all the parts numbers listed. they're not cheap but might save you a boat load of hassle trying to cut and shut stuff.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  3. #3
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    I've had to change release bearing from the one I first used (possibly part of a Shogun one, but no markings to identify), as it failed.
    I have also changed clutch cover to an uprated one, and I had the carrier run off the end of the input shaft cover, and fracture it.
    I've changed the input shaft cover, spaced the bearing, and adjusted pivot ball & slave pushrod, and it's still not as good as it was when I first did the conversion (with the potential Shogun bearing) - so if I could get this measurement, I can go back to the drawing board with what I've got, and check my measurements again, as when I first did the work I had a CA18 sitting around to measure from.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    not sure if it'll help but I had quite a few similar issues setting up the orc twin plate on the CA. I pulled out the threads from the clutch slave cylinder mounting on the gearbox, snapped the pivot ball, snapped the front input shaft thing (a few of the aftermarket clutches require it to be trimmed, 4mm or so) it's all stuff that happens on the CA/SR boxes.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Plat...EAAOSwzppaBcfq

    this is the one that pretty much all the aftermarket kits use, since it presses closer to the centre, it reduces pedal effort.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  5. #5
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    Thanks Alan, I might look at that - I did struggle to find one that fits on the carrier and had a contact point as close to the centre. It'll be worth a try before I re-work everything!

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