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Thread: Lsd O.o

  1. #1
    Guest romolus's Avatar
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    Lsd O.o

    Just put my new Nismo GT 1.5 way (code for: "I am VERY bad with money") into the housing after two days of brake cleaner and swearing. I've been measuring about .11mm of backlash. Not pretending to be a pro, I wanted to do it myself, so before I seal it up for install and breakin, any words of wisdom before it's too late?
    Final is 3.91666666666666666666666666666666 and it goes into my low 200hp-ish ca S13.

    Oh yeah, one question... are the diff bushings interchangeable with the S14, 15 and Skylines? And if so, are solid ones good/bad, make no difference? How painful are they to get out and in? I didn't remove the original diff yet and have no idea what condition the bushings are in, but they are probably original. Do they age bad?

    Last edited by romolus; 13-03-2021 at 23:37.

  2. #2
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    S13 diff is solid mounted as standard.

    S14/a , s15 are bushed.

    Either way you'll need the s13 backplate as the 14 plate won't fit a 13 subframe.

    If you've put the diff in a 14/a 15 casing you'll need some solid front mounts and the 2 front bolts from a 14/a 15 as they are longer.
    If you've put it in a 13 case it'll bolt up.

  3. #3
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    Do the tooth contact check on page PD-23.

    Check the backlash at more than one position.

    Why are you using Japanese manual?

  4. #4
    Guest romolus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    S13 diff is solid mounted as standard.

    S14/a , s15 are bushed.
    Just for sanity, mine is an S13 case, right?
    Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by skyshack View Post
    Check the backlash at more than one position.
    I measured it in multiple positions, turned it over about 30 times and measured again, I have about .01mm discrepancy

    Quote Originally Posted by skyshack View Post
    Why are you using Japanese manual?
    It came with the unit. It's japanese and english and the units are universal anyways.

    Btw when I put the lid on it, one of the topmost bolts stripped at about 50nm (all others took the indicated 65) DDD: Was Impossible to get it out.
    I drilled into the remnants of the bolt, tapped it and put a smaller m8 on it with only 20nm and loctite, it's the shiny one in the picture. Am I in trouble? I know it sucks HARD but it's the top and I don't think there's any case pressure. (...?) It was already sealed, so the metal chips had no way in but damn I'm angry. Like it went to 50 and then it just didn't tighten and I kept turning like an idiot (I mean it probably would have snapped on the way out as well...), but damn I felt dumb.
    Last edited by romolus; 15-03-2021 at 20:53.

  5. #5
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    That is an s13 casing.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

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    id say you will be fine with the rubbish bolt at the top as long the back plate is stuck on with sealant.

  7. #7
    Guest romolus's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'm just gonna tell myself it "adds character".
    I really thought there were some bushings on the frame side. Well I know more now.

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