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Thread: S14a Crushed Oil Pan

  1. #1
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    Priming oil after crushed pan

    Managed to crush my oil pan (s14a)... dont ask! have ordered a replacement pan and oil pickup as I'm concerned pickup may have also been damaged

    I don't have an oil pressure gauge yet so ordered a mechanical pressure gauge just to run a test on first startup. I'm going to fit a sandwich plate adapter too as the oem pressure switch looks like a nightmare to get to

    Once I have swapped the replacements in I was thinking of priming the engine just in case the oil pump was damaged. From research it seems the best options are to pull the fuel pump fuse, unplug the injectors and spark plugs, and crank engine briefly to see if the cluster oil light goes out. If it does go out quickly I was then going to plug everything back in and start it up and check the pressure gauge

    Assuming I don't expect to see much pressure on the mechanical pressure gauge during the initial prime?
    Last edited by sr20det1; 18-11-2020 at 08:45.

  2. #2
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    Did you drive it with the crushed oil pan? The oil pump is on the front of the crank so it shouldnt have taken any damage from the hit. If its damaged from lack of oil then you may want to strain your current oil to check for any bearing material as id think they would suffer more than the pump from starvation. Thats my opinion anyways

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

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    thanks Mike,
    damage happened when I was jacking up from the jack point at the cross member, the rubber jack bung slipped backwards and started pressing into the pan without me noticing
    I havent started the car since it happened just in case
    here is a link to a pic https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvikuuLyzvR6vov088
    Its towards the rear, somehow doesnt look as bad in the pictures, looks worse from under the car
    It appears to be damaged just where the strainer drops down, anyway about to take it off

  4. #4
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    just swap the sump and the strainer if its damaged. be careful of the O-ring on the strainer, if its old or damaged fit a new one.

    try not to jack the car up in the middle of the front radiator support panel they aint very strong. instead just use the front tie down points. taking the pad off the jack is a neat trick when jacking on these points.

  5. #5
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    ok managed to get the pan off today, the good news is I don't think the strainer is damaged unless anyone disagrees??

    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvim5jaYxZwzR9EEu2
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvinJyYngpeJj7p2c2
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrviwJ3D77NXqkxEijt

    The bad news, I managed to snap the very first bolt, the rest came off fine, its recessed so nothing to grip onto

    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvimjnvuL6HRGuWg4P
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvimbFn1Q8VYs530-H
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvim-KcGZdi_eR5alg

    Have just ordered a reverse drill bit to see if that works first, dont really want to try an easy out from what I have read

    I guess alternatively I could just put it all back together and hope the silicone gasket stops any leaks, if there is a leak just drive it to someone who could weld on a bolt?

  6. #6
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    another quick question on this, how safe is it drilling under the car around the oil pan?

    My regular drill sparks like mad, just ordered a brushless one though, and what about using a heat gun around the pan?

    Thanks

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    The exact same thing happened to me about 10 years ago. I was rushing as I was loosing light and the jack slipped! Bollox!
    It crushed the oil pan and crushed a little but of the oil pick up opening, but not enough to restrict oil intake for normal driving. I replaced the oil pan and pick up. I remember one of the pickup bolts was an absolute pain in the hole to get back in as I was on my back and just couldn't get the angle. That took an age.
    I find that the oil light does not go out quick, you need alot of cranking. To be honest I pulled the fuel pump fuse, and cranked her for about 20/ 30 seconds and then fire her up.

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    Yeah your oil pick up looks fine to me. Torque the oil pan bolts/ or at least be careful as it is very easy to sheer the thread in the soft aluminium. I semi rung one of mine but reckoned that with it going semi-tight, the sealer and the rest of the bolts that it would be fine. And 10 years later it hasn't leaked so far...

    Unless you have a petrol leak then I wouldn't be concerned with a heat gun or a sparky drill. But always have a fire putter-outter to hand, just in case!
    Use a fine sharp scraper to help break the seal between the oil pan and sump. Don't be tempted to tap in a screw driver or you will damage the face of the sump.
    Last edited by markcro; 24-11-2020 at 22:20.

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    Hi Markcro, thanks for your response, puts my mind at rest, I guess am not the only one to have done this!
    pan came off ok, I used a gasket scraping tool, only a few nicks to the upper pan mating service so hope will be ok

    yeah, have come to the conclusion that the pickup is ok so that will save me some bother at least, will have a go at the broken bolt removal tonight
    Was also thinking of using some copper grease on the pan bolts when I replace the pan

    I got hold of some black silicone gasket maker from Amazon, this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    seems like it will be suitable but not sure if it will be easy to remove again should I need to do it in future

    On the priming question, people seem to say pull the CAS so that you don't have to bother removing the coils and injectors, I notice the service manual doesn't refer to it as a CAS, but Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS)
    Looking at the wiring diagram, do people pull it at F32 or F101 or somewhere else?
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvixhXiRIXt9jUdrT5

    Cheers

  10. #10
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    No worries. You could pull CAS/ CPS but you are still cranking with cylinder pressure, so that is the same as pulling the fuel pump fuse. I just pulled the fuse and cranked for 20/30 seconds and then fired her up.

    That gasket should be fine. Should be the same process of what you did if you ever need to take it off again.

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    Hi Markcro

    Ok makes sense, will try it just without the fuel pump fuse then

    Managed to get the snapped bolt out literally by just turning it with a pair of tweezers! It just came out once I'd drilled the pilot hole so didnt have to mess with a left handed bit or easy out or anything...phew! I think its because I chucked so much WD40 in there all week to help free it up!

    Managed to bash the original pan out, actually looks in better shape than the one I bought to replace it!
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvixtKqra_tyh_NeGo

    I also ordered some of the proper Nissan Gasket maker 'Fluid Gasket 1218B Red Brown' so all set now!

  12. #12
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    Happy days! Let us know when it's all back together!

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    Quote Originally Posted by markcro View Post
    Happy days! Let us know when it's all back together!
    Pan is back on, I used the Sealpro Black RTV in the end as the oem stuff was really hard to get out of the tube
    Everything torqued up ok except the last bolt so went easy on that and eventually went in with a little extra force
    Torque spec for the pan bolts from the workshop manual is 6.4 - 7.5 nm which seems quite low
    New filter installed and engine refilled with about 3.7 litres as per the manual
    All ready to prime now and hope for the best
    Last edited by sr20det1; 05-12-2020 at 16:18.

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    Just posted an update to another thread, overfilled the oil a little, probably going to drain a bit out
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....ter-oil-change

  15. #15
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    Happy days! Yeah I've over filled before too. After that I stopped measuring exact amounts! :-)

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    yeah easily done i think markcro, from what I've seen this isn't an exact science! (details in this thread: https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....ter-oil-change)

    anyway update on the priming, I planned to do up to 5 x 15 seconds max of turning over to see if oil light would go out and it went out bang on the start of the second round which is good

    I was planning on fitting the oil sandwich plate next so I could hook up the oil pressure gauge before starting it but if that's a faff i might just fire it up and hope for the best!

  17. #17
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    if your oil light goes out you have oil pressure. you could take the oil filler cap off and see if you have oil sloshing around inside when its running.

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    thanks green_rs13, yeah so i took the plunge today and started it literally for a couple of seconds. Thankfully the oil light went out straight away. I stopped it immediately though as i heard a loud pitched beeping which I have not heard before on startup (more on that later)

    anyway with the oil filler cap off I can see a little oil has now got in there, hardly any oil to be fair but then the car was only running for a second, it was literally bone dry though before I started it, car has not been started for 2 months while I faffed about with the pan!

    before start: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvjBKxAThppXCfXohV
    after start: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Arf-yOsTGQrvjBH2s4uBHDmtb-hM

    Does this look ok?

    anyway regarding the beeping, seems to be the LPG! yes, this car has an LPG conversion which i never used, Horesham disabled it recently when they installed injectors and remapped for me. I told them I was never going to use it anyway. There were no instructions with it, just a button to switch over to LPG from petrol. The beeping stopped when i pressed the button, but then restarts every time i turn the ignition key, it never had any LPG anyway so maybe it just beeps following battery disconnect...don't know if any of you guys no much about LPG conversions?
    Last edited by sr20det1; 23-12-2020 at 19:26.

  19. #19
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    You never touched the oil pick up, just replaced the pan? Eitherway there in nothing really to go wrong. Just fire her up and let her run up to temp and check for leaks around the oil pan.

  20. #20
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    yup, the oil pickup seemed fine although I never removed the baffle plate to check which is one thing I regret not doing
    it looked ok and I gave it a tug and it seemed solid plus no visual damage so left it

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