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Thread: Car won't start

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    Car won't start

    Morning,

    I’m doing a reshell on a UK S14a and it will normally run for around 4 seconds and then switch itself off and then not start again once it had switched off.

    Yesterday, after fitting a fuel pressure regulator and adjusting it to around 43psi we had it start for around 30 seconds but it then cut itself out again and then would not start.

    It used to sound like it was running out of fuel so I topped up the tank, replaced all fuses with new ones, hardwired the fuel pump on a relay with a switch which works, checked all the original relays and had them tested at a local shop.

    NATS has been snapped out of the ECU by Pro Tuner, the yellow engine check light used to flash but no longer does (no idea why this has just randomly stopped).

    We’ve checked for spark, fuel, compression and it all seems fine.

    Injectors are apparently Nismo 740cc from Garage SR (Don’t buy from him).

    I had them flow tested from Nispro.

    Wiring has all been checked, grounds have been checked.

    Fresh fluids have been used all over.

    Not sure what else I can do now!

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    if the ecu has been done that way your engine management light will be illuminated.

    if it only runs for a few seconds and then dies it would suggest a NATS issue but you don't have NATS so that's weird.

    pop the fuel return hose off and stick it into a bottle so you can see that its not just running out of fuel.

    does it run if you just spray brake cleaner down the inlet?

    you can push a 501 capless bulb into 1 of the injector plugs to watch them firing.

    when it runs for the few seconds do you just flick the key and it springs into life or do you have to coax it into life?

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    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Full list of ECU, engine harness and chassis harness details?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Actual_Ben_Taylor View Post
    Full list of ECU, engine harness and chassis harness details?
    It's weird, it used to flash and then one day we started it and it just stopped flashing.

    I'll give it a go but looking at the gauge on the fpr it seems to hold pressure.

    It runs with Easy Start.

    I'll give the light a go.

    When I switch it on it fires up fast like there's nothing wrong with it.

    Ecu is a standard ECU with a Nistune board in it.

    The Ecu, engine harness and chassis harness are from my old car.

    The thing I didn't realise at the time when this all began was the halo etc needed to match. Should this still be a problem now that NATS has been removed?

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    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    So all wiring is from the same original car? There's not some random mix of JDM S14 chassis wiring and UK S14A engine wiring??

    Because a guy on here had a similar issue and it was because of mismatched wiring looms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Actual_Ben_Taylor View Post
    So all wiring is from the same original car? There's not some random mix of JDM S14 chassis wiring and UK S14A engine wiring??

    Because a guy on here had a similar issue and it was because of mismatched wiring looms.
    They're all my UK spec looms from the car I had before.

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    you don't need the chipped key/halo etc.. if your car is nistuned.

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    My cas was adjusted.

    Do I just need to adjust it until the fuel pump primes or is there more to it?

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    there is a procedure. you have to take the rocker cover up and stab it in and align the timing dots.

    https://frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank...gine_t_25.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    there is a procedure. you have to take the rocker cover up and stab it in and align the timing dots.

    https://frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank...gine_t_25.html
    Thanks mate, I'll give it a go.

    Half watched a video last night on how to do it and it doesn't look too bad!

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    I've been trying different things with the car. The car is now starting and shutting off after 4 seconds once the car starts to idle higher.

    It seems like it's not the pump cutting the car off and more the spark as it shuts down pretty swiftly.

    I'll try and get a video posted up.

    What should I be experiencing if it is the immobiliser?

  12. #12
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    any extra info on this, buddy?
    a friend of mine is having issues with his s14a that sounds a bit like yours.
    his car wont shut down after 30 seconds, but it bogs like hell.
    loads of parts have been changed for troubleshooting to no avail.
    maf, spark plugs, coil packs, coil pack loom, cleaned aac valve, lambda sensor.
    the car used to run great and started bogging when it was stopped for a month.

    if there is any more info on your car, let me know, bud.

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    Hello mate, unfortunately not.

    It seems like there's two ways of getting rid of nats.

    The ECU has NATS and from what Speedingmofa on here has said there is an option to switch nats off from my Nistune board.

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    I stuck a noid light on the car yesterday and the pulse was fine. It ran for about 30 seconds then I switched the car off.

    I then started the car up again and it ran for a minute and a half and then shut itself down.

    I don't know what else to look at, before it was pretty consistent in shutting down after 4 seconds.

    Is there anyway of finding out if the cas is faulty?

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    you could take the round black plastic cover off the CAS and check the trigger wheel isnt corroded etc..

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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    you could take the round black plastic cover off the CAS and check the trigger wheel isnt corroded etc..
    It's all clear.

    The car is running rich, so I don't know if that's what's causing it to shut itself down.

    There is a lot of carbon on the spark plugs.

    Not sure if I should just throw the towel in and hand it over to Pro Tuner or keep trying to investigate.

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    The car is all sorted. Turns out the wrong base map was put on the car. Had Martin Battye come out to fix it all! Thanks for your replies!

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