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Thread: Ca18det won't start or run cold or warm

  1. #1
    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    Ca18det won't start or run cold or warm

    Stage 2 ca18det having trouble trying to get it running again.

    Symptoms. Won't start cold or hot unless keeping the throttle held only.

    It did have code 13 and tps code, also pin 30 track burnt out on the ecu now fixed so code 55 now.

    I've try replacing loom, maf, cas, idle valve, cold start valve, boost leaks, plugs, coilpacks and loom, temp sensor and I have good spark and fuel.

    I've had a sxoc member plug a nistune in and check all electrics with a multimeter all fine il try get him to post some more details shortly.

    Compression is 175,155,155,175 cold engine is forged.

    Anyone able to help or any idea what's causing the issue as I've tried everything I can think off.

    Thanks


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    Last edited by mospin; 30-08-2020 at 17:28.

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    Did you replace it with an original coolant temp sensor?

    I had a non start issue in the past, I replaced the coolant temp sensor for one that I got from eBay and it was the same issue.... Once I replaced it for a genuine one. Car started straight away.

    You can also check if the coolant temp sensor is working correctly with the procedure in the FSM. All you need is boiling water, a thermometer and multimeter. The FSM states what the resistance is suppose to be at certain temperatures. If u need, im sure I can dig out the page.

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    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    I replaced the temp sensor with another I brought from a local car factor's code 22630-51E02

    I've done all checks with multi meter and it shows as working.

    The only way to run the car is with throttle applied as soon as you let off throttle the engine cuts out

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    Sounds exactly like the issue I was having. I bought one from a local place too back then. Soon as I would let go off the throttle it would run for a few seconds then cut out. Depending on the outside temperature. Sometimes it would struggle to start and was heavily overfilling. I use to disconnect the fuel pump in the boot. Start it with the throttle. Then plug the pump in but was still over fueling. I ruled out the coolant temp sensor because I had replaced it. Eventually when I took it to Horsham Developments. It was as simple as not being a genuine nissan sensor. That was my experience.

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  5. #5
    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    Sounds very similar to mine I will however give it a try and see what happens it would be nice for it to be something so simple.

    I've tried everything else I'm going to redo a leak test as well just incase as I was running fine before

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    The coolant temp sensor is fine, all showing correctly in the nistune.

    I've got a nistune log of it running, but my ECU is non lambda so no mixture readings, and it doesn't seem like you can upload files to this forum.

    At one point we realised an engine ground problem was causing the track at pin 30 to burn up , leading to intermittent TPS and coolant temp error codes, to my knowledge the ecu circuit was the only thing damaged by this, and has now been repaired.

    It appears to only run when the throttle is opened, however this is not an airflow issue, I suspect it is the ECU responding to TPS input. The cold start valve/air regulator is fully open and the AAC/idle control valve has been tested and seen to be working, which is why I now suspect it is an air metering problem. Multiple looms and mafs have been tried, so it is moderate to assume these are not at fault.

    My fully stock car believed to be working correctly, idles from cold at about 1300rpm and the maf gives a reading of bang on 2 volts, the car mentioned above however when throttled up to ~1300rpm only gives a MAF reading of 1.4 volts, and there seems to be no correlation between RPM and air flow which one would expect.

    When the engine is given the beans while stationary it revs very well, not that we know what the fuelling is doing at that point, I doubt it is correct.

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    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    Changed temp sensor today back to the oem one and shows as working.

    Still won't start but if a apply the slightest throttle it start straight up and as soon as you remove the throttle it stalls instantly?.

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    Might be worth calling Jez at Horsham Developments and asking his over the phone if he knows what else u could check. He is usually very helpful and knowledgeable about the S13 and CA's.

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    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    Il give him a try.

    Done a boost leak test and nothing shows up so it must be fuel related

    I have spark and fuel so I'm guessing ignition system?

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    How have you got the breathers set up ?

    As standard, they have a flow of air through the breathers to the plenum at idle. If that is blocked, it will cause stalling (and possibly non-starting) if your throttle butterfly is sealing particularly well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    How have you got the breathers set up ?

    As standard, they have a flow of air through the breathers to the plenum at idle. If that is blocked, it will cause stalling (and possibly non-starting) if your throttle butterfly is sealing particularly well.
    Ah yes, I had not accounted for the air that would be going through the PCV valve into the intake manifold in stock setup at idle vacuum, so it could sort itself out if the pcv valve was able to suck further air from after the maf.

    Currently the crank case only vents through a catch can into the post maf breather.

    If mospin tries connecting the pcv valve directly to the pipe after the maf this may prove this theory and the catch can setup may need a bit of tweaking.

    Fingers crossed!

  12. #12
    Guest mospin's Avatar
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    Yes my breathers go as follows

    Breather on Rocker inlet side to catch can

    Catch can to inlet pipe on turbo

    Pcv on inlet blocked
    Exhaust cam Rocker blocked

    This was how it has run before but I can give it a go

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    Little update.

    Plumbing a fuel pressure gauge into the line gave these results.

    Pump primed just shy off 40psi

    Engine running at 400rpm only 2.5bar

    When revving increased it drops just below 2bar let off throttle and it returns to 2.5bar

    So I'm going to look into changing the pump, filter and fpr one by one.

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    Update,,, I've now change fuel pump, filters, rail and injectors and fuel pressure is much better but still drops a little when revved but if I hold the throttle until its warm it will stay idle without stalling and rpm does increase slowly as its warming up to about 700rpm but cold start is still a issue also if I shut the engine off when warm. It won't restart on its on without some throttle. But once running warm it will hold and rev without stalling so I'm not sure whst to check next

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    New update.

    Changed the adjustable cam pulleys for stock ones and the car now idles at 800rpm but was still trying to stall on cold start.

    So had a feel around for leaks on the iacv and found the solinoid was getting hotter so changed it out for another and cold start is now 1100rpm steady with no stalling

    So all the causes where

    Clogged fuel pump, sock and filter
    Burnt out ecu on pin 30.
    Timing jumped
    Iacv solenoid faulty.


    Still have a slight idle hunt but hopefully that clear when I set the timing up to 15tdc

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    That's great news! Also thanks for the updates. Helps us all with future diagnostics.

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    I think the idle control valve may have been ok (I did bench test it on 12v, resistance and operation), but with the lack of running, the ECU was probably attempting to switch it on for longer than it normally would, causing it to get hot.

  18. #18
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    Check that the TPS and temp gauge are getting 5V from ECU pin 30. This is a regulated voltage and if you burnt the track you probably fried the regulator/transistor.

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