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Thread: S13 3D printing Thread

  1. #21
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    Are they integrated USB ports or something else?


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    It's a cigar lighter size hole in the panel, and you can get USB units for that size (or put a cigar lighter socket in). Plenty available on Amazon, search for "USB Car Charger Socket"

  2. #22
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    S13 3D printing Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by stoofer View Post
    It's a cigar lighter size hole in the panel, and you can get USB units for that size (or put a cigar lighter socket in). Plenty available on Amazon, search for "USB Car Charger Socket"
    Interesting. There could be a good place on the Z to put USB sockets

    Ideal for charging IPads etc

    Where LHD have the Start Button


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  3. #23
    Guest Asht_200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoofer View Post
    Attachment 85018

    Tricky WIP model here. Had considered a cupholder ashtray, but there's only room for 1 cup there so doesn't satisfy our needs.

    Had considered getting the JDM cup holder armrest, but wow, expensive (if you can find it), so I'm designing a lid replacement with holders... Test print all functionally works (lines up right, hinge is good) but was a little off for dimensions. Not far off, though... hopefully not many iterations needed as it's a long print...
    Would you not knock the cups during gear changes?


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  4. #24
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s13spooner View Post
    Even if there was a top or bottom blank plate I would be keen as I only run a single din and nothing else in there

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    You deleted the cubby?

    Have a think about what you'd want there and get back to me. The hard work is done for this part

  5. #25
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    Would you not knock the cups during gear changes?


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    That's another reason to not use the ashtray.

    The armrest on the S13 is surprisingly far back, and it's also deep, the cups don't stick out very far (in fact, standard "coke" cans are hard to get out)

    It's far more ergonomic for driving than the cupholder in the 370z, which is in the way of everything!

  6. #26
    Member s13spooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoofer View Post
    You deleted the cubby?

    Have a think about what you'd want there and get back to me. The hard work is done for this part
    When I bought the car it was just a massive hole of nothing , yeah I will do

    Sent from my H3113 using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by s13spooner View Post
    When I bought the car it was just a massive hole of nothing , yeah I will do

    Sent from my H3113 using Tapatalk
    Well, I have 2 spare cubbies (the type with the door on a spring). One was butchered "way back when" so I could put an original iPod in there and run a cable out the back, the other is unmolested.

    I also have a test print of just the DIN surround to get rid of the gap from a single-DIN head unit. Basically a rectangle with some depth to sandwich in place.

    PM me if you want any combo of those.

    Can still go more custom if you want, too

  8. #28
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    When I bought the car, the "hole" was an AVCR and Blitz performance monitor, no radio... velcro-ed to a bit of foam... with lollipop sticks stuck to the back of the foam for support... I think my take is an upgrade

  9. #29
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    Interesting. There could be a good place on the Z to put USB sockets

    Ideal for charging IPads etc

    Where LHD have the Start Button


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    True, but nothing you can't do with a hole saw, right?

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoofer View Post
    True, but nothing you can't do with a hole saw, right?
    Have a better Idea. Buy the entire switch assembly and use that

    You get the surround then


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  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    Have a better Idea. Buy the entire switch assembly and use that

    You get the surround then


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    Perfect fit

    cigarlighterZ.jpg

  12. #32
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    stoof, how much post print work do you find the parts need? I've seem some printers that seem to need a lot of work afterwards given how rough they are but yours seem much better - is that a printer thing or is it a file / specs choice?
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  13. #33
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alanjuggler View Post
    stoof, how much post print work do you find the parts need? I've seem some printers that seem to need a lot of work afterwards given how rough they are but yours seem much better - is that a printer thing or is it a file / specs choice?
    That's a good question (I generally do ZERO post print work), many factors! I'll generalize a bit:

    Printer Type:
    • Resin
      Pros:
      Amazing quality parts - print your own tabletop miniatures.
      Cons:
      Current resin printers have a small print volume.
      Currently a lot more expensive to print in resin.
      Messy.
      Cant't print composite materials.
      Many resins are still hazardous substances and hard to dispose of waste (although this is improving)
      Post-processing (curing at a minimum) is required
    • FDM (like mine)
      Pros:
      Printers can be had for cheap
      Filament is cheap
      Can have large print volumes
      Some can print multiple materials into the same part (like mine can)
      Cons:
      Large prints take ages!
      Quality of prints is a compromise of time/quality. For best quality, you want to print slowly and use very low layer heights, you can multiply print times into several days sometimes to get quality.
      Depending on what you print with, post-processing can be hard.
      The whole thing is a mild fire hazard, you have moving parts at 200+ C and a failed sensor can turn many of the cheapest printers into a molten mess.


    For mine specifically (a Prusa i3 Mk3S with MMU2S):
    I have multi-material capability. "ovehangs" on FDM usually print badly - I can use a support material that dissolves in water to have great overhangs.
    I can print multiple colours, transparencies, etc all in one object.
    It's a relatively expensive (for hobbyist) printer; it prints great.
    If I want to print curves in Z axis (up), it supports variable layer heights (reduces the "staircase" effect without needing to do the whole print at the lowest layer height)
    The print bed on mine is textured, so if I print a large, flat, object (like the front of my fascia), it comes out with a slight pattern on it that largely hides the fact that it's a printed part.
    They've recently added "elephants foot compensation" to it, so the only "unavoidable" problem I had is now fixed.

    And finally:
    Experience ;-) The printer (especially with the multi-material) is a hobby in itself: I know how to tune it to get good results.
    I don't need to use brims nor rafts, I have the printer set up right, so there's nothing to cut away.

    So: I print for quality and do zero post-processing.

  14. #34
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Forgot about this old one... S13 speaker grille, just add mesh.

    speakergrille.jpg

  15. #35
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    One more iteration on each of these parts and it's hopefully "done"

    New tray is to stop cups and contents of remaining storage area from conflicting. Would also be sturdy enough to be a cupholder on its own, keeping the original lid and swinging it up when needed. That would have been a lot easier...
    image1.jpeg
    image0.jpeg
    IMG_0285.jpg

  16. #36
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    I donít know...

    I still found the old ash tray was an ideal size for a can of red bull


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #37
    Member stoofer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    I don’t know...

    I still found the old ash tray was an ideal size for a can of red bull


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Our use case is 2 large coffees

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