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Thread: Newly bought 200sx S13. Advice/problems!

  1. #1

    Newly bought 200sx S13. Advice/problems!

    Hi all. I am new to the nissan scene although very interested in all jap cars. This is my first one so am quite new to it all but very keen to learn, please be kind!

    So I took delivery of the car yesterday driving it 150 miles with a welded diff. (Comfy!) The car has been built for drifting but I am planning on using it as a fun run around for now.

    Was doing some pulls in it in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and once I hit boost or about 5k rpm the car fell on its face. Felt like it was hitting some sort of limiter but not sure if it was a fuel cut off or boost issue or something else.
    I don't have much idea of what was previously modified on the car although I am trying to find out. All I know for now is it has a fairly new T28 Turbo, new fmic, Tubular manifold and full 3 inch straight through exhaust. Not sure about the ecu related parts either.

    Any and all help would be massively appreciated! Ta

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  2. #2
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    First thing to do, is to hard-wire the fuel pump in using a new feed direct to the battery and through a relay. The wiring on these old Nissan's is crap and has been the cause of more than one engine meltdown! While you're there, check the pump fitted, for those mods you'll want an uprated in-tank pump (such as a Walbro) as a standard 20+year old one will not be doing the job! Plugs also should be checked (I expect colder ones to be fitted with those mods) and very importantly, the map! Hopefully it's got something like a Horsham Developments/Nispro daughter board, or a standalone, as a T28 on a standard map will melt it if it's still a CA18!

  3. #3
    Guest s13spooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissan200scottishx View Post
    Hi all. I am new to the nissan scene although very interested in all jap cars. This is my first one so am quite new to it all but very keen to learn, please be kind!

    So I took delivery of the car yesterday driving it 150 miles with a welded diff. (Comfy!) The car has been built for drifting but I am planning on using it as a fun run around for now.

    Was doing some pulls in it in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and once I hit boost or about 5k rpm the car fell on its face. Felt like it was hitting some sort of limiter but not sure if it was a fuel cut off or boost issue or something else.
    I don't have much idea of what was previously modified on the car although I am trying to find out. All I know for now is it has a fairly new T28 Turbo, new fmic, Tubular manifold and full 3 inch straight through exhaust. Not sure about the ecu related parts either.

    Any and all help would be massively appreciated! Ta

    Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk


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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by s13spooner View Post


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    Howdy!

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  5. #5
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    What boost control is it running? Boost gauge? Sounds like fuel cut because it's either running too much boost or the boost is spiking.

    What's the full spec?

  6. #6
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    What boost control is it running? Boost gauge? Sounds like fuel cut because it's either running too much boost or the boost is spiking.

    What's the full spec?
    Easy to open ecu and see if it's been chipped etc, passenger kick panel ecu is behind there.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    Easy to open ecu and see if it's been chipped etc, passenger kick panel ecu is behind there.
    Thanks man. Yeah I am going to have a look in the ecu tomorrow to see. If it hasn't is it easy enough to buy a chip that has a map on it roughly right for my mods?

    As for supporting mods I'm not sure at the moment. Again tomorrow I'm going to have a look at plugs and fuel pump.

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  8. #8
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissan200scottishx View Post
    Thanks man. Yeah I am going to have a look in the ecu tomorrow to see. If it hasn't is it easy enough to buy a chip that has a map on it roughly right for my mods?

    As for supporting mods I'm not sure at the moment. Again tomorrow I'm going to have a look at plugs and fuel pump.

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    Have a look at www.h-dev.com for a stage2 chip (don't be tempted by fakes on eBay! )

    You will need to get the oem chip removed and socket soldered in, best person for this is a tv repair specialist usually.


    If you inspect pump I would advise first purchasing a new tank o-ring as the one in there would've swelled and won't reveal.

    Does it have a boost gauge and controller?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    Have a look at www.h-dev.com for a stage2 chip (don't be tempted by fakes on eBay! )

    You will need to get the oem chip removed and socket soldered in, best person for this is a tv repair specialist usually.


    If you inspect pump I would advise first purchasing a new tank o-ring as the one in there would've swelled and won't reveal.

    Does it have a boost gauge and controller?
    Thanks yeah I have had a look at them and I will get new o-ring. All these little things that I didn't know until now!

    As for a boost gauge and controller I don't have either one at the moment. Any recommendations on setups you guys run?

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    Last edited by nissan200scottishx; 13-10-2019 at 21:49.

  10. #10
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Depends what you want to spend really, electric boost controllers are best but can be a fiddle to setup or manual boost controllers if you're going to get one search dawes device.

    Don't buy a bleed valve. Also don't bother with a dumpvalve ca's don't have them from factory.

    Boost gauge, unless you want defi or greddy etc just get a pro sport or similar.

  11. #11
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Looks a nice car that. Shame someone saw fit to drift it as there's not many left in good body shape.


    Sounds like a case of getting investigating working out what's what with the modified bits and then go from there.

    It wouldn't be unusual to hit fuel cut with those mods you've said if the ECU is stock - albeit a T28 on a stock actuator will only boost to about 8psi unless it has some form of boost control - most likely if it's a new turbo it's a case it's been fitted with an adjustable actuator. If you can take some pics we can tell you what the turbo is.

    Otherwise you might find it's coils, spark plugs or fuel pump. Potentially all 3. But if we solve the turbo, boost pressure and ECU first and then go from there, that's probably best way forward.

    With cars like this it's really difficult to assess over internet. There could be a number of more obscure reasons for those symptoms, ranging from a boost leak on the intercooler pipework to a dodgy FPR. Let's cross those bridges if we get to them.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    Looks a nice car that. Shame someone saw fit to drift it as there's not many left in good body shape.


    Sounds like a case of getting investigating working out what's what with the modified bits and then go from there.

    It wouldn't be unusual to hit fuel cut with those mods you've said if the ECU is stock - albeit a T28 on a stock actuator will only boost to about 8psi unless it has some form of boost control - most likely if it's a new turbo it's a case it's been fitted with an adjustable actuator. If you can take some pics we can tell you what the turbo is.

    Otherwise you might find it's coils, spark plugs or fuel pump. Potentially all 3. But if we solve the turbo, boost pressure and ECU first and then go from there, that's probably best way forward.

    With cars like this it's really difficult to assess over internet. There could be a number of more obscure reasons for those symptoms, ranging from a boost leak on the intercooler pipework to a dodgy FPR. Let's cross those bridges if we get to them.

    Good luck.
    Thanks dude, very helpful. The car is on great shape, full body underseal after having rust stripped off. All the quarter panels are fibreglass too so no rust there. I'm not planning on drifting it anytime soon, wanna get it running sweet and just have some fun in the epic Scottish B roads!

    Tonight I am going to open the ecu and see if its stock or not. Will also get some detailed pictures of the turbo. Could also do with some pointers as to where to connect a boost gauge and mechanical boost controller. Thanks muchly

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  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    Looks a nice car that. Shame someone saw fit to drift it as there's not many left in good body shape.


    Sounds like a case of getting investigating working out what's what with the modified bits and then go from there.

    It wouldn't be unusual to hit fuel cut with those mods you've said if the ECU is stock - albeit a T28 on a stock actuator will only boost to about 8psi unless it has some form of boost control - most likely if it's a new turbo it's a case it's been fitted with an adjustable actuator. If you can take some pics we can tell you what the turbo is.

    Otherwise you might find it's coils, spark plugs or fuel pump. Potentially all 3. But if we solve the turbo, boost pressure and ECU first and then go from there, that's probably best way forward.

    With cars like this it's really difficult to assess over internet. There could be a number of more obscure reasons for those symptoms, ranging from a boost leak on the intercooler pipework to a dodgy FPR. Let's cross those bridges if we get to them.

    Good luck.
    So I've now had a look about, opened the ecu and took some photos of the turbo as best as I could at this time of year. Also took photo of inlet manifold just to give you a look at it.
    Hopefully we can answer some questions. Ta

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  14. #14
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    1st pic of ecu the chip will be under the board top right corner, you should be able to see through the gap between the board and case.

    As Arry mentioned that is an aftermarket actuator there and possibly a chinky t28.

  15. #15
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Also that copper pipe in last pic (bottom left corner) is that a fuel line?

  16. #16
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissan200scottishx View Post
    Thanks dude, very helpful. The car is on great shape, full body underseal after having rust stripped off. All the quarter panels are fibreglass too so no rust there. I'm not planning on drifting it anytime soon, wanna get it running sweet and just have some fun in the epic Scottish B roads!

    Tonight I am going to open the ecu and see if its stock or not. Will also get some detailed pictures of the turbo. Could also do with some pointers as to where to connect a boost gauge and mechanical boost controller. Thanks muchly

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    Boost gauge can be connected to that vac line coming off the inlet just behind the throttle body (currently has a bolt in it)

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    1st pic of ecu the chip will be under the board top right corner, you should be able to see through the gap between the board and case.

    As Arry mentioned that is an aftermarket actuator there and possibly a chinky t28.
    Have had a peek at the chip. It looks like it is the standard one, so get a stage 2 from hdev?

    Great, here's hoping the turbo doesn't give up immediately...
    Am I right in thing you can adjust the actuator for more or less boost?

    Yes the copper pipe runs into the fuel rail

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  18. #18
    Guest s13spooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nissan200scottishx View Post
    Have had a peek at the chip. It looks like it is the standard one, so get a stage 2 from hdev?

    Great, here's hoping the turbo doesn't give up immediately...
    Am I right in thing you can adjust the actuator for more or less boost?

    Yes the copper pipe runs into the fuel rail

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    I've heard Chinese turbos lasting a long time on heigh boost but not all of them, check the for sale section as most members seam to have horded parts over the years and will have something you need I would think.

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    I'm willing to bet the fuel tank is rusty on the inside. Pull the pipe off the fuel filter and see what colour the fuel is.

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