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Thread: Exhaust firing/spluttering when throttle is applied

  1. #21
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    You don't need to remove the rod, just check for it sucking air through the seal when the plenum has vacuum e.g. at idle.

    sxbaz is talking about the pipework between the filter and the AFM. If it is too straight or too short, the AFM can end up reading air in both directions which messes with the ECU's head.

    regarding breather set up...I'm assuming you have the left most pipe connected to the PCV and what the feck is that big old brass thing connecting the right most pipe to the elephant's trunk ?

    If that is a one-way valve, that might be causing some of your troubles.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    You don't need to remove the rod, just check for it sucking air through the seal when the plenum has vacuum e.g. at idle.

    sxbaz is talking about the pipework between the filter and the AFM. If it is too straight or too short, the AFM can end up reading air in both directions which messes with the ECU's head.

    regarding breather set up...I'm assuming you have the left most pipe connected to the PCV and what the feck is that big old brass thing connecting the right most pipe to the elephant's trunk ?

    If that is a one-way valve, that might be causing some of your troubles.
    Since I've already taken the throttle body off, I might as well just remove the rod, unless you recommend otherwise? Hopefully I can get it all assembled again..

    I've edited my answer to sxbaz's post, should have read his question properly before answering..

    Oh, Is that pipe supposed to be connected?? That might explain a couple of issues I've been having..

    That big old brass thingy is basically an adapter for the breather pipe going to the elephant's trunk, not a one-way valve. When I bought the Z32 AFM I got a new elephant trunk with it, but the breather pipe didn't fit into the trunk, so I had to make it fit!

  3. #23
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    Small update, I removed the rod from the throttle body yesterday, looks like there is a small tear in the seal located on the TPS side of the rod.



    After a bit of searching, it seems like that seal isn't for sale by Nissan.. But my dad has gotten in touch with a company here in Norway that makes seals, so hopefully they will be able to make one.

    Wasn't able to get a good look at seal near the throttle wheel, so will have to check that once it is back on the car.

  4. #24
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    I can't imagine such a minor thing being the cause of all your problems, but good to get it fixed anyway.

    Can you post a picture of the engine bay, would be easier to see if the vac lines, breather hoses and such were properly routed.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by R3K1355 View Post
    I can't imagine such a minor thing being the cause of all your problems, but good to get it fixed anyway.

    Can you post a picture of the engine bay, would be easier to see if the vac lines, breather hoses and such were properly routed.
    Nah, I don't think it is the cause of my problems, but a leak is a leak!

    Here you go:
    Engine bay

    Engine bay

    Breather hoses

    Let me know if you need more pictures, these were the only recent ones I could find on my phone atm.

    Also, think I forgot to mention in the first post, that I do have a bov fitted. I have tried driving without it (replaced it with another pipe), but it made no difference..

  6. #26
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    Have you done some re-wiring in there? Those plug colours don't look original.

    I'd get rid of that BOV to start with, they often leak and cause issues.
    Last edited by R3K1355; 23-05-2019 at 08:52.

  7. #27
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    If you're thinking about the AAC / FICD plugs, I had to replace those when I bought the car, the ones that were there were completely destroyed..

    Yep I'm aware of that Will try running it without the bov once I get everything back together.

  8. #28
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    Also whats going on with the vac hoses to the FPR and associated with the Hot-start solenoid, are they still installed as it came from the factory?

  9. #29
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    I removed the hot-start solenoid about a year ago. FPR vac hoses is going directly to the rear of the intake manifold.

    However, I have tee'd in on the FPR vac hose going to the top of the manifold, for my boost gauge and ebc (see picture).

    Is that bad, or OK? Had nowhere else to connect it.

    Sent from my celly via Tapatalk

  10. #30
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    sorry im a bit slow to get back to you but yes my elephants trunk didnt have enough bends/length in it really so it caused some irratic behaviour, im not sure ive totally fixed the issue but it did help.
    Theres a thread on here called 'air straighteners' or something along those lines which i looked into and ended up trying it.

    I dont think it will solve your issue but it maybe something to play around with if you run out of things to try

  11. #31
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    It’s not advisable to run a T off the fpr line
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by sxbaz View Post
    sorry im a bit slow to get back to you but yes my elephants trunk didnt have enough bends/length in it really so it caused some irratic behaviour, im not sure ive totally fixed the issue but it did help.
    Theres a thread on here called 'air straighteners' or something along those lines which i looked into and ended up trying it.

    I dont think it will solve your issue but it maybe something to play around with if you run out of things to try
    No worries!

    Will definitely take a look at that thread

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    It’s not advisable to run a T off the fpr line
    I see, any specific reasons why? I'll probably end up using the vac hose that the bov currently uses, for the gauge/ebc, once I remove the bov.

  14. #34
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    Alrighty, got everything back together today, with a new seal on the TPS side of the throttle body.

    Adjusted TPS, and took it for a drive. No pops/bangs when I start to accelerate after letting go of the throttle.. Took a small trip (20 mins ish), and only noticed a very faint pop one time. So it seems like the problem is 99,9% fixed.

    Don't know exactly what fixed it, but as long as it's fixed I couldn't care less

    Last things I've done are: Cleaned the throttle body and replaced the seal that had a small tear in it, and adjusted the TPS.

    I'd guess that the TPS might not have been perfectly adjusted the last time I did it, don't think it is the seal, but I dunno!

    Thanks a lot for all the help!

    All that's left now is to try to get the AAC working as it's supposed to... Did a test today just for fun, supplied the AAC with 12V while engine was running. Idle went up a good amount, dropped down to 800 rpm again when I stopped giving it 12V. Maybe it's my ECU that is not working correctly?
    Last edited by h0ivik; 26-05-2019 at 21:54.

  15. #35
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    Check the wires to the AAC for continuity.

  16. #36
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    Will check that tomorrow, Jonny! Not able to work on the car today.

    Will also go through the diagnostic procedure in the fsm again, in case I did something wrong the first time.

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  17. #37
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    Wires to AAC has continuity with ign on.

    Went through the diagnostic procedure (EF&EC 107) again, looks good there as well.

    Terminal A on AAC wires and ground, with ign on = battery voltage.

    Voltage between ECU terminal 106 and ground, when car is running = battery voltage.

    Any more tips?

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  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by h0ivik View Post
    I see, any specific reasons why? I'll probably end up using the vac hose that the bov currently uses, for the gauge/ebc, once I remove the bov.
    It's mainly cos stuff can break or develop a leak, and the FPR is kinda important so it really deserves a dedicated vacuum line.

  19. #39
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    Is there a reducer or anything in the pipe coming from the intake hose??

    IIRC in the stock pipe there's a big restriction in it near the cam cover end?

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by R3K1355 View Post
    It's mainly cos stuff can break or develop a leak, and the FPR is kinda important so it really deserves a dedicated vacuum line.
    I'll have to get that fixed then! Thanks

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