I’ve never run a catch can in my car but are they worth while?
I’ve got a built motor running over 400bhp if that makes a difference, I also have no real idea if it’s breathing heavily.
I’ve never run a catch can in my car but are they worth while?
I’ve got a built motor running over 400bhp if that makes a difference, I also have no real idea if it’s breathing heavily.
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
On CAs catch cans do nothing until you start spending lots of time revving the tits off them and going sideways or raise the rev limit.
Then, they can act as a very temporary fix to the problem of oil not returning to the sump quick enough via the return galleys (as Steve C found out).
If your engine is breathing from the crankcase due to blowby and your breather from the crank is blocked or restricted, that too can stop oil returning to the sump.
Also, if you are running a VTA setup on your breathers rather than the standard setup, you may need a catch can as there will be more sludge build-up. The standard setup clears sludge into the engine via the plenum and burns it.
I'm pretty sure the SR setup is close to the same as the CA.
Under no circumstances should you fit a catch can with wire wool in it (especially if you are running a recircing setup) as little bits of the wire can get sucked into your inlet doing no end of damage to your turbo and/or engine.
Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 05-12-2018 at 18:27.
My breather set up is standard currently. If it burns off the vapour that can’t be ideal surely?
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
As Johnny said they catch some oil etc, but rather than venting the fumes out on your crankcase back into your intake, reducing the quality of the fuel being burned it is vented to atmosphere.
Worse for the planet, better for your engine I suppose.
I’m not sure how much of an effect this will have, let’s say you don’t run a catch can but use 99ron fuel I’m not sure it’s like running 95
But I guess if you are chasing power you don’t want knock and every little helps.
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The standard setup vents to the plenum on the overrun and the inlet on boost so it is venting all the time. The amount of fumes being vented per engine cycle is tiny. It is cleaner to burn the fumes through the engine than to vent it unburnt to the atmosphere.
The fumes are a mixture of condensation (water), vapourised oil, any emulsion from the two mixing and carbon particles from the blowby.
Unless the engine is leaking compression like a bastid, the volume of fumes won't be significant.
If oil can't drain back from the cams, liquid oil can get into the breathers and that is where the catch can will stop liquid oil being pushed into the inlet and/or plenum.
Liquid in the breathers is not good.
In all the time I had mine I never once emptied it. But it did breathe through a breather on a T piece in the hose.
I haven't read the thread but the Mishimoto ones are going pretty cheap on Demontweeks.
These were £90 in most places with the Black Friday deals.
If you want one Chris, I have one sitting in my shed. PM me your address and I'll post it.
Just put something that's really well baffled between the cam cover and the inlet.
I've got one mounted on the fan cowling, never had a drop in it
I don't run one. I don't run the stock breather setup. ive blocked the 1 way valve at the rear of the rocker cover and vent the take off half way up the turbo side of the rocker cover to atmosphere.
Just a word of warning dude, if you run your catch can to atmosphere ( normal Inlet side pipe)
Make sure you remove the pcv and block the hole up.if you don’t the pcv will draw air in on overrun/vacuum conditions making it run slightly leaner
I do this too, you might more muck in the oil but since most people don't do more than a few thousand miles between oil changes it's neither here nor there really.Originally Posted by green_rs13
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