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Thread: S13 T28 manual boost controller fitment

  1. #1
    Guest Lee-bo's Avatar
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    S13 T28 manual boost controller fitment

    Hi, ive spent 2 hours searching through the forum/search bar trying to find a diagram of how to fit manual boost controller to a S13 CA18DET.

    I keep reading people advising to 'just tee into the small line between the turbo inlet and actuator' - but my T28 doesn't have that. The vacuum line from the actuator goes to a small valve/solenoid on the inner wing, then a line from the inlet hose, and a line from the inlet plenum joins to the same small valve.

    Im know that this must have been covered numerous times before, and ive tried my best to find a diagram/information without posting this newbie-esque post, but I cant find the exact info I need anywhere. There were a few promising posts but they are so old that the photos/links don't work anymore. Ive read that the ca18 doesn't have a boost solenoid, but then other posts say that it has, then others say to remove it...?? Im soo confused!

    I have all stage 2 mods, (ecu, air filter, exhaust, fuel pump, intercooler, boost gauge etc) so trying to be sensible and getting everything else in order before upping the boost, but im struggling to find exactly where to tee into. Do I just tee into the vacuum line between the actuator and the small valve/solenoid, job done??? Do I remove the small valve/solenoid altogether and do some thing else?? A simple diagram/photo would help me out so much.

    Id appreciate any help, or even a link to an existing post that I may have missed. Thanks,

    Lee

  2. #2
    Guest davejames33's Avatar
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    I think it'll be easier to show pics of how your setup is first

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    Guest JackB's Avatar
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    The t28 doesn't have a nipple to use as a pressure source for a boost controller from standard unlike the t25.

    Does your t28 have the oem pipe outlet that connects to the intercooler piping? Like in the pic below. If it does you can just drill and tap a thread for a nipple to thread into and then you have a pressure source. You can see where it is in this pic, it's circled.


    For a manual boost controller you just put it in-line between 1 & 2 marked on the pic.

    S13 CA doesn't have any boost solenoids or control units from standard so someone has added something to yours. As said, some pics would be useful to help say what stuff you do and don't need.

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    Guest Lee-bo's Avatar
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    Thanks Jack. Here are a few rough photos of the ‘valve/solenoid’ that ive got. It looks oem, but im not sure what it is, or does! My turbo does have the oem cast inlet pipe like yours, so i guess i could drill and tap that, but have a look at the pics.

    The valve/solenoid is underneath the finned item in the photos - its slightly difficult to see in the pics, but if you zoom in then you can see.




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  5. #5
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    Just unplug the one solenoid and fit yours in it’s place

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    I'm struggling to convince myself that I am seeing what I am seeing in the pics.

    It looks to me like someone has connected a pipe from the actuator to the centre nipple of the warm start solenoid (WSS) which lives under the power transistor.

    If they have, that is just completely fecking wrong.

    Pull the hose off the WSS and plumb it into the manual boost controller so you have a line going from the MBC to the actuator.

    Run a line from some part of the pipework between the turbo and the plenum that is going to be able to measure boost pressure to the MBC.

    Then do a WSS removal as they are more trouble than they are worth.

    There are a few threads that detail how to do it but basically you run a line from the FPR to the back of the plenum to bypass the WSS and its pipework and block the line that going into the elephants trunk by the AFM.

    Have a look at the pictures in this post as you will be able to tell from them whether someone has done what I've said above and connected the actuator to the WSS.

    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....=1#post6319411

  7. #7
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Bin hss hot start solenoid (search hss removal)

    Under throttle body is a nipple probs got a rubber cap on it, pull the cap off and run vac line from here to mbc then to actuator.

    Job done
    JDM Combe 9 October 2021, click link to join us
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....MCombe-9-10-21

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    Guest Lee-bo's Avatar
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    Thanks ever so much. Yes, the actuator was plumbed into the middle line of the hss. Ive followed your guide and removed the whole lot. I just need to get a few ‘T’ pieces to plumb the boost controller into the plenum. Im assuming i can just ‘Tee’ i to the same line as the boost gauge. shall keep you updated on progress.

    The next thing i need to do is get rid of the carbon cannister thing, as ive heard that its a useful mod, but i think theres a guide somewhere here.

    Lee


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  9. #9
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee-bo View Post
    Thanks ever so much. Yes, the actuator was plumbed into the middle line of the hss. Ive followed your guide and removed the whole lot. I just need to get a few ‘T’ pieces to plumb the boost controller into the plenum. Im assuming i can just ‘Tee’ i to the same line as the boost gauge. shall keep you updated on progress.

    The next thing i need to do is get rid of the carbon cannister thing, as ive heard that its a useful mod, but i think theres a guide somewhere here.

    Lee


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    Nope boost gauge reads vacuum too, ideally you don't want the actuator to see vacuum.

    Under the throttle body is a nipple, use that
    JDM Combe 9 October 2021, click link to join us
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....MCombe-9-10-21

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    I'd leave the carbon can unless you need to remove it.

    If you do, search for my post on removing it. There is a trick to getting the loop in the fuel tank vent that stops the cabin stinking of fuel.

    If you need a feed for boost, tap into the turbo outlet as per the very early reply from JackB, into the hardpipe that is after the softpipe from the turbo outlet or, as Rich suggests, take it from the front-most of the nipples on the plenum as that is the right side of the throttle body and won't see vacuum. The second nipple in is a good one to use for a boost gauge as it sees vacuum too.

    Try not to share hoses using Ts as a leak in one part can affect both parts.

  11. #11
    Guest Lee-bo's Avatar
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    I can’t seem to find this ‘nipple’ with a cap on under the throttle body? This is what i have...




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  12. #12
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Ok you still have carbon can sorry I missed that.

    So when you delete carbon can you will then use the small vac line under throttle body
    JDM Combe 9 October 2021, click link to join us
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....MCombe-9-10-21

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    Guest Lee-bo's Avatar
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    Ahh ok, Can i just ‘Tee’ into the carbon canister line temporarily?

    Lee


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    Not really. You want a dedicated line ideally as you want it to see the real pressure that is in the system and anything else connected to it could leach that pressure away e.g. when the carbon can is purging.

    Also, where you take the feed from can affect the pressure that you see. So taking it from close to the turbo you might get a reading of, say, 16 psi but that same effort from the turbo, when read from the plenum, might be 14 psi due to restrictions in the pipework and intercooler causing a pressure drop between the two points.

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    Another thing I'd add is to bin the plastic T's and replace with brass. It's no fun when they go brittle and break...

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