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Thread: RUNNING ISSUES after engine work!

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    RUNNING ISSUES after engine work!

    Hi Guys, in the shit and stuck on what to do!

    car running hdev stage 2a chip, 555 nismo's and all relevant mods

    story so far....
    s14a went in for new gt28r turbo swap and to solve comman oil leak on head. ended up be recommended head gasket to be done to fully solve leak, once head was taken off the inside was dry and caked in burnt oil, as no compression test was done before head was taken off piston rings couldnt have been ruled out!
    so work carried out as follows:
    #head-new stem seals, head skimmed, valve seats honed, new bc valve guides
    #main block-bores honed, new oem pistons rings, all new bearings, oem timing chain kit,new thermostat
    #other bits- new 28r, h-dev stainless mani (2nd hand but in good nik, ) lamba sensor

    engine was put back together, was told it was ticking over fine (so i was told!) for 10min or so till the car ran out of fuel (i had told them it was low, forgot to fuel up before i dropped it off to them) i had dropped of a large jerry can of costco 99ron fuel. they topped it up and she wouldnt fire!
    they checked everything, fuel getting through, filter etc etc, they then said the fuel was duff and seemed more like fuel'y water!!! i suspect someone at the garage has nicked the fuel, either way cant prove it!

    they checked everything, drained the tank and put new fuel in.

    she fired up but was rough and seemed to be misfiring on throttle, they again went over everything, still missing but they blocked the fuel regulator that stopped the misfire/power drop at higher rpm throttle but lower still is shit (same noise and running as if fooked coilpack) they verdict is it needs remapping!!

    now my mate and i have tried everything under the sun today to fix it! different plugs, coilpacks (running vag con. ), even tried brand new walbro 255 fuel pump!

    tried everything we can think off.....only thing now is timing! noticed the cas sensor is on its max posistion.

    basicly any idea's??????

    (just to rub salt into the wounds it failed mot today )

  2. #2
    Guest JuicyCarbonFX's Avatar
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    What did it fail on?
    If it was emissions its looking like timing!
    Mine was running like poo and failed MOT on emissions so I had a friend come round with a gun and we took the head off, set the sr to top dead center and adjusted cam angle sensor.
    mine was 5 degrees off and is now road legal

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    no it was rust and rear brake lines. cough....decat....cough.....emissions wernt an issue ....wink wink!

    would timing effect running like a misfire/stutter?????

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    Guest JuicyCarbonFX's Avatar
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    It did with mine tbh i kept it below 2k all the way test station and when the tester was reving her up she was not happy lol
    Wish i knew a friendly tester
    I hope it is just your timing man sounds like you have had a real nightmare :/

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    CAS should be central on it's adjustment slots, it can be biased one way or other slightly but never on full adjust
    cam timing is fairly straight forward,coloured links on sprocket dots ,getting the cas fitted can be a pain to get perfect,
    should be 15 degree before top dead center,it will run terrible if its timed up wrong and swinging the cas won't fix it
    ,cas controls spark and injector fire point so two faults when set up/adusted wrong
    I guess there is some warranty on the work so should take it back, fingers crossed they sort it and it runs good
    all the info to set it up is on here or zilvia, nicoclub had all manuals but were deleted recently after a nissan dispute

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    cheers Andy, to be honest they have had long enough to sort it and that comes back is that it needs remapping!

    hopefully my mate and i can have a go at the timing today

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    Well car still miss firing. Followed all instructions to time it, so all done. She does idle without dipping now on and off now, idles a bit rough but misfire is still there. We noticed they had taken the cas case off and there is tipex on one of the internal.screws and tipex on the small slotted plate on the i side! Could this effect it? The only thing not tried as i need a 22m spanner or slotted long socket to swap the o2 sensor over. I bought one of here years ago, was new but dont no if it could be that so gonna try my old one back in and see.

    All i get back from them.is that it needs a remap! Of which i think is bullshit unless some one thinks it could be?????

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    a knackered lambda sensor wouldn't really make it that bad.

    my vote is also that your mechanical timing is off or your CAS is one tooth out or your garage isn't locking the ignition when setting the timing with the strobe light.

    im also surprised they left it ticking over with fresh piston rings just fitted,

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    reads as they had a good poke around with the tipex inside the cas, when there are two dots to line up on the drive and body
    I'm with green-rs13 on suspect cam timing and/or cas dots not lined up
    https://frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank...gine_t_25.html
    seeing as they are going the it needs mapping route,leaves you to check were the cam timing and cas are set to
    use that as a guide to start with checking what timing it is set to on the cams /crank and the cas dots/markers
    pics are of a straight cam non vvt all sr's use same set up, take some pictures and post up your findings

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    update-

    Cas disc all cleaned up and free from tipex! all timed up 'properly' followed the guides to the t.

    how she runs- with the boost controller on, the lower miss fire has all but gone, very very slight occasional on harder acceleration at lower rpm, 3-4k rpm still bad missfire/hunt under harder acceleratoin, gental acceleration she pics up slowly no miss fire

    with boost controller of, so on actuator pressure, no miss fire what so ever!

    with out ripping the cas to bits, i dont no if any tipex has got on the light sensor bit of the cas!!!

    im happeir i can at least run it without the missfiring, but problem still not solved :-(

  11. #11
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    good to read progress was made, possible it's a boost leak from a badly fitted pipe/or clip,it can hold lower boost but higher it's leaking
    or if it had spark plugs when work was done they need closing up the gaps,could still be 1.1 need 0.80
    the higher boost is blowing out the spark if gaps too big
    if it runs ok atm on lower boost I'd say the cas survived the tip ex and it should be ok,if the cas was an issue it would run bad all the time
    Last edited by ANDY black s13; 30-05-2018 at 01:08. Reason: aliens forced me to do it

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    I need to get some new plugs. I gave them new ones to fit. Ngk iridiums. But with them obviously trying to fix running issue they have tried to open the gap. But in so doing have actually bent the iridium tips!!!! So they are going no were near the engine again. I had a couple of old sets, the gap was about .80. Going to pick up some normal copper tipped ones today to try. If im gonna **** one up id rather **** up a copper one :-) im not going to get much of a chance this week to work on the old girl as car is now at my bosses while i use the works van. Next weekend will be rust repairs and hopefully replace rear brake pipes then i can get her mot'ed

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    agreed I wouldn't use plugs with suspect overly bent tips/electrodes,hopefully the coppers with a closer gap will get rid of the miss fire
    rust is rust so not much to advise there,brake pipe can be made up at a motor factors if you give them the old pipe length and fittings needed
    or give them the old pipe as a pattern

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    Im looking at going the braided hose route for sorting the brake pipes. Its the hard pipe from front to back. I wanted to drop the whole rear subframe in a few weeks and sort the lot. But not the time so got to get it done asap. Braided will cost more but easyier to route n fit. Easyier to move out the way when and if i do the whole rear end. Just got to get her road worthy. Booked in at hdev to get the map fine tuned to my car begining of july. So need to get all this sorted and car moted and back on the road

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    WAHOO!

    finally running issues sorted, Feckin boost leak!!!!!!! grrrr

    after seeing a cut in the short plenium to intercooler pipe i decided to take it of to double check it wasnt deep, when trying to remove silcon pipe the stainless pipe suddenly pulled out from the bottom silicone pipe! another thing they had not tighened, put it back together then noticed one of the milakor clamos had it bridging piece missing, cant believe i hadnt noticed before, so it was pinching and forcing the bit of pipe outwards! using parts from a spare old clamp i fixed that, took it out for a quick drive and hay presto....seee now pulls and boosts like a trooper :-) soooo happy! :-)

    now i can finally go back to the so called mechanics and tell them what a complete bunch of muppets they are and see what there reply is! now just rust to get sorted , brake n fuel lines sorted, mot;ed and back enjoying the old girl again!

    oh and found they hadnt even fitted the new restrictor banjo bolt for the new gt28r, grrrrr MUPPETS!!!!

    cheers for all your help fella's

    stu

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