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Thread: what turbo please ????

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    what turbo please ????

    hey all, looking to upgrade the turbo on my s13 ca18det as i think it's on the way out! question is what turbo to get? i have done a bit of research but thought i'd get the thoughts of people who know there s**t :-) so i,m currently running the stock t25 from new and have had hdev fit and map the hdev stage 1 chip. i have looked at the gt25 turbo and the t28bb, I'm assuming i will need another remap and would like the turbo to spool a bit sooner than the stock setup as ifeel it always takes a while to get moving so any advice would be well appreciated as always. cheers

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    Stock T25 spools real early (starts around 2,250 and making full boost by 3,500) but runs out of puff at the top end.

    I think a GT2554 is classed as a straight replacement but someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong.

    If you've got the money a GTX will give much extra power in an early spooling way that won't run out of puff at the top end but you'll need bigger injectors, a different AFM and a custom map amongst other things.

    A GT2560R (aka T28BB) is a nice Stage 3 turbo for reasonable money and spools early-ish (compared to, say, a T28) but still needs 444 injectors and a Z32 AFM to make it work well. You could probably run it at Stage 2 with no damage as long as you check the AFRs after you've fitted it.

    For any of the above options you'll need
    - Walbro fuel pump 225litre
    - NGK spark plugs BCPR7ES or the equivalent iridiums
    - Upgraded intercooler

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    Just thinking...maybe your turbo is not on the way out and you have a boost leak.

    Worth getting it smoke tested and getting a Bren Device fitted to control boost (not only does it raise the boost limit, it allows the boost to build quicker by holding the wastegate completely closed until the boost limit is reached).

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    Thank you for all the info. I will have the turbo tested as i don't have the tools to do it myself. I was hoping to keep the car at stage 1 as i don't want to much strain on the engine (even though it is tempting if funds would allow) so is there not a better turbo that would give a bit more umph for a stage 1 setup ?

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    Not really. Each stage varies by tuner but most people mean Horsham Developments Stage 1 when they say Stage 1 etc.

    Stage 1 is a chip that works with the standard turbo, a cone filter, a free flowing exhaust and a Walbro fuel pump with the boost bumped up to 15 psi.
    Stage 2 is a chip that works with a T28 (or a GT2560R pretty well) and a better intercooler (as well as the Stage 1 mods).
    Stage 3 works with a GT2560R, Z32 AFM and 444 injectors in addition to Stage 2 mods.

    Anything deviation from the "kit" defined for the Stage requires a custom map.

    A healthy CA can cope with Stage 3 all day long though. As long as the AFRs are right and the cooling system works and the oil is kept at the right level and changed regularly, they don't blow up.

    GT2554 is probably your best bet but it won't be the cheapest option in the long run. I'm pretty sure the T25 is 42mm/54mm inducer/exducer combination. If you got the GT2554R it would spin up faster.

    However, I'm wondering how early you are expecting it to spool up. As I said, Precious used to be making boost from around 2,250 running a T25. If yours doesn't, you have a problem that might not be attributable to the turbo itself. It might be making boost but the boost is getting lost.
    Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 17-03-2018 at 19:23.

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    Brilliant thanks so much for all the info. I think because of funds atm if it is the turbo then I'll just get a stock one for now as i can fit that myself and maybe a front mount if i can find a good deal.
    Any good recommends for a fmi with pipework?

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    Rad mounted front mount ics have sort pipe work and don't require you to cut the battery tray but will require you to remove the fan cowling and the carbon canister.
    Bumper mount fmic is more showy but much more widely available.
    Depends if you want a stealthy look.
    V mount is hard to do.
    Cheapest turbo option is to look for a s/h one on here but only buy off someone reputable. Can probs get a good s/h one for less than a ton.

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

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    Awsome, stealth look is for me so will look into the rad mount and hopefully a new tubby will resolve my smelly white smoke issue. Thanks again for your help jonny

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    White smoke suggests head gasket. Maybe do a compression test before spending any money ?

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

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    Oh shitters. Ok i think i have a compression testing kit in the garage, will post up results on the weekend, cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by dotzero View Post
    Oh shitters. Ok i think i have a compression testing kit in the garage....
    If you don't I do, and I'm not all that far away from you if you want to have a go with it. Cheers

    [Edit]Mind you, probably cheaper than the petrol to get one off Fleabay... tho stick to a reasonably reputable name. No need to go £200 for a Snap-On, mine is a Draper and was about £15 from memory - and once you've bought one you've got it for future use as well.[/Edit]
    Last edited by Rochester; 20-03-2018 at 13:31.

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    Halfrauds do a Gunson for £30

    Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

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    Cheers rochester, i have got the compression tester and will do the test on sunday and post results to see what you guys think

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    ok . just done the compression test. started at the front with a warm engine and all was going well until the 4th cylinder :-(
    cylinder 1- 9.8 bar
    cylinder 2- 9.5 bar
    cylinder 3- 10 bar
    cylinder 4- 7 bar
    i dropped a cap of oil in the 4th and retested at 10 bar so i'm assuming this means the piston ring is fried ( i unfortunately don't have a mad scientist to rip apart the block with me ;-). so question is where do i go from here, i'm happy to do most work on my 13 but i know my limitations and rebuilds are not within them.

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    I've got a mechanic mate in Maidstone that I know is capable of doing it. He helped me rebuild the top end of my CA about 15 years ago lol.

    I could PM his details if you want to travel that far.

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    From your experience what sort of work is in involved in correcting my problem and what sort of money approx do you think I'm looking at. I appreciate it was a long time ago :-)

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    You at least need to take the head off. That means removing all the gubbins connected to it which, on a turbo car, is quite a lot of pipes and electrical connectors. You have to remove the inlet mani and the exhaust mani and get at a couple of tricky bolts by the bulkhead.

    Once the head is off, it might be a matter of just replacing the head gasket or it might need the head and the block skimming, the valves might need replacing or relapping and the stem seals replacing.

    Its a job probably easiest done with the engine out but can be done with it in place.

    You've got to be looking at 10 hours to strip, fix and rebuild I'd say plus parts as you'll need a top end gasket set at a minimum and you really need an OEM set or a good pattern part set. You don't want to be doing it twice.

    It took me 2 days (with advice and help man-handling the head off) and about £200.

    To get someone to do it, you're probably looking at the thick end of £750 to get it done.

    A secondhand engine will cost you around 400 quid and you still have to get the old one out and the new one in AND you don't know how good the s/h one is so the total cost will be about the same probably.

    Don't hold me to any of these figures though. I'm just guessing.

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    Tganks for all the info makes sense to me provided i can get all the parts is to rebuild what i have then. In your opinion does it make sense to stay with my ca and rebuild or change to an sr or ca that is fully rebuilt already by someone reputable? Just trying to look at all scenarios as i wouldn't want to get all the work done and then have bottom end failure . Thanks again for all the help and advice

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    If you tied me to a table and flayed me with barbed wire whilst threatening to do awful things to my children, I still wouldn't recommend an SR conversion !! CAs sound full of win because they are.

    Not that I am biased or anything

    Seriously though, it depends on your circumstances. If you have a grand and your car is solid (rustwise), get someone to build an engine for you.

    For a grand, you could get a really nice engine built as long as you were able to get it in and out of the car yourself.

    The trouble comes if you have to pay for the time for someone to take it out and put it in. Its not a simple engine compared to, say, a two stroke kart engine. 4-bolts and that is out of the kart. Going up the complexity scale you have bike engines, 70s car engines, 90s n/a engines, modern car engines then the CA. Its not sophisticated, its just that there are a lot of wires and pipes to reconnect in the right order.

    If you can get someone to help you strip it and put it back together for beer and sandwiches (which has been done before), you could get a real decent engine for "reasonable" money.

    If you bought the S13 as a cheap car and would struggle to raise £500 to rebuild the engine then I'm afraid you are shit out of luck. Sorry.

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    Nice one, the missus is going to tie me to a table and flay me with barb wire because i want it done properly as i intend to keep the car for as long as possible and it is very clean and I've already spent alot of money on it . I will have to wait a little while to save the money but i don't know anyone mechanically minded so hopefully i can help whoever i find to rebuild it to reduce costs. Is it worth uprating any of the components or as you said just getting the genuine parts or good pattern

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