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Thread: Exhaust heat wrap

  1. #1
    Now with 400bhp....
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    Exhaust heat wrap

    Does anyone have any suggestions as to which heat wrap is best to use on an exhaust manifold? I know some need to be coated after fitting to make them fire retardant?

    Links would be a bonus if possible.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest CNHSS1's Avatar
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    The coating is generally to seal them as without it, the wrap is effectively a cloth and can absorb oil from leaks and cause fires.
    I've used the white stuff and the titanium grey wrap which seems better and resists abrasion damage a bit better

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CNHSS1 View Post
    The coating is generally to seal them as without it, the wrap is effectively a cloth and can absorb oil from leaks and cause fires.
    I've used the white stuff and the titanium grey wrap which seems better and resists abrasion damage a bit better
    I tried the really cheap white wrap on a CA manifold ages back and it shed fibers constantly all over the engine bay
    and eventually it melted around the collector into glass like brittle stuff and started to drop off in chunks
    more recently tried the dearer titanium/grey coloured wrap on a yaris/vitz manifold NA/no boost
    and so far much less to no fiber's shed and handles the heat it seems
    no linky as was a while back but a 15 meter roll was 15 squids delivered

    edit:20 meter roll 13.49 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20M-Titani...oAAOSwPe9Zt6L~
    Last edited by ANDY black s13; 01-10-2017 at 16:53.

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Cheap wraps could contain asbestos as their heat insulator so be aware.

    This place stock a range of high quality heat insulation options

    https://www.agriemach.com/c7-heat-and-sound-insulation

    Also Funk Motorsport specialise in this area too

    https://www.funkmotorsport.com/

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    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Just get it coated, I went to zircotec for mine

  6. #6
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    The coating will cost more than my manifold I expect. When I upgrade I'll look in to it for sure.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest chrispy's Avatar
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    Roughly what was the cost of the Zircotec Coating?

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    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Can't remember, think it was around £300

  9. #9
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    It's a quality solution but not on my sub £100 manifold
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    most people rate the DEI exhaust wrap. soaking the whole roll in a bucket of water before you wrap it helps. helps to not scratch you to bits/itch and tightens it when it dries out. best to get an assistant who knows how to use lockwire and how to bend the ends over afterwards.


    what are people views on that gold tape stuff you see stuck in engine bays? im tempted to stick it on my firewall as I keep melting floor mats on the passenger side.

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    Ex Mod & Crabbit C**t Rubix_Cube's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    It's a quality solution but not on my sub £100 manifold
    If you are buying sub £100 manifolds it sounds like quality is the least of your requirements. I wouldn't bother to wrap a sub £100 manifold as it'll have to be all taken off in a couple of weeks when it cracks anyway.

    Coating or a decent heat shield on a Mani TBH.



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    It's a second hand h-dev which I've been running since 2012 so it's not too bad, not worth spending 300 notes on it though.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    what are people views on that gold tape stuff you see stuck in engine bays? im tempted to stick it on my firewall as I keep melting floor mats on the passenger side.
    Works well, even if it does look abit bling.

    Another alternative is this type of heat barrier material which you should be able to put in the engine bay and then down along the underside of the floor too, I don't think the gold tape is very durable so not suitable for low or under the car applications.


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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    It's a second hand h-dev which I've been running since 2012 so it's not too bad, not worth spending 300 notes on it though.
    Can you just buy some of the ceramic paint and do it yourself?
    Obviously Zircotec is top of the market, but you must be able to get some of a similar stuff and do a cheaper job at home?

    Edit, found some, looks like the stuff that Camcoat use.

    Techline Coating black satin
    Last edited by R3K1355; 03-10-2017 at 09:15.

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    that silver bubble effect matt stuff has foam in it that just absorbs oil/water. I used to use it on the underside of the bodywork on a (real) ford GT40 and found it would just melt the glue and fall off. I did use some silver cloth matt stuff that was like a space suit but there is not a decent way to stick it to bulkheads.

    TBH if its just a cheap manifold I would leave it as it is. that way you can see any cracks that might appear and wont have to try and sand any coating off should you want to weld a crack up. but then a decent brace on the turbo elbow should prevent flex/cracking.

    sticking a bot of heatwrap on the elbow/down pipe should help.

  16. #16
    Graphics Guru Davus200's Avatar
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    I’ve had the titanium stuff on for years with no compliants, avoid the cheap white stuff as it goes brittle and covers your bay!

    For peace of mind I have a plumbed in fire extinguisher, and heat wrapped all pipe work around the mani!

  17. #17
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    that silver bubble effect matt stuff has foam in it that just absorbs oil/water. I used to use it on the underside of the bodywork on a (real) ford GT40 and found it would just melt the glue and fall off. I did use some silver cloth matt stuff that was like a space suit but there is not a decent way to stick it to bulkheads.

    TBH if its just a cheap manifold I would leave it as it is. that way you can see any cracks that might appear and wont have to try and sand any coating off should you want to weld a crack up. but then a decent brace on the turbo elbow should prevent flex/cracking.

    sticking a bot of heatwrap on the elbow/down pipe should help.
    an idea for the passenger flour heat shield (I always start with cheapest option),
    for some good heat shield stuff a trip to a salvage yard and a lot of late Audi's,vw,jaguar's etc have silver coated woven cloth type material
    on the underside close to were the cat convertor lives,some is wrapped around wire looms and have reuseable pop studs to secure them
    tbh most late cars have heat shielding of sorts around the cat like aluminum sheet some with deep dimples bmw,jag land rover

    if glue don't work could use rivets with little aluminum washers to load spread and lessen it tearing,or a sandwich of cloth and alu dimple sheet over the top
    and rivet that to the bulkhead/flour
    the gold stuff works but it's crazy expensive,
    I've gone the scrappy option for years as some good stuff is used on the better quality cars but it's near worth less to the scrapyard so often it's free

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    Honestly a waste of effort Chris. Wrap is inefficient for the work you've got to put in to make it right. If your H-Dev hasn't cracked in 5 years, it's not likely to crack now.

  19. #19
    Now with 400bhp....
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    Trying to smarten the bay up as much as anything tbh. When it finally goes top mount I'll likely get it coated
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Once it gets wet it'll start to fray off, and it'll go yellow in no time. It's up to you bud.

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