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Thread: Smoking exhaust help

  1. #1
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    Help

    Hi all,

    I've just picked up an S13, CA18, and all looked well when I was looking at it and on the test drive.

    However, and its a big however, on the drive home, when coming to a standstill, a cloud of white smoke came past me.
    Pulled up and revved the car and when coming off throttle white smoke comes out the exhaust, continues for a bit, then stops.
    This happens most times when rev'd.

    Ive checked the oil, it looks dirty, but not like any coolant has got in, the cap is clean and so is the dipstick.

    The coolant is filthy and rusty, but just looks like it needs changing, ran the car with the rad cover off and and filler cap off there are no bubbles or anything suspicious going on, and the car doesn't overheat.

    The smoke smells of oil, but is white.


    Thanks in advance.



    UPDATE:
    Original issue fixed with one way valve trick.
    Idling issues further down thread.
    Last edited by John; 03-10-2017 at 19:32.

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Smoking exhaust help

    Most likely an oil seal gone, I'd say turbo seals are on the way out. Very common


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    Thanks for the reply Jay. That's what I was hoping! I've got a friend with a busted CA lump that I might be able to pinch the turbo from. Was just looking on here to get some confirmation or any other ideas.

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Try the one way valve trick to confirm turbo
    JDM Combe 9 October 2021, click link to join us
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....MCombe-9-10-21

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Also no harm doing a compression test
    JDM Combe 9 October 2021, click link to join us
    https://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread....MCombe-9-10-21

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    Could you explain the one way valve trick? I've seen mentions of it but nothing solid. Is there a link anywhere?
    Compression check is my next step.

    I have just gone out to look at the car and realized that the oil has been overfilled by at least 10mm on the dipstick.

    I remember when one of my friends overfilled his car with oil it made a smokescreen, but this is nowhere near as bad as that.

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Could you explain the one way valve trick? I've seen mentions of it but nothing solid. Is there a link anywhere?
    Compression check is my next step.

    I have just gone out to look at the car and realized that the oil has been overfilled by at least 10mm on the dipstick.

    I remember when one of my friends overfilled his car with oil it made a smokescreen, but this is nowhere near as bad as that.
    Highly doubt overfilling it would cause that, I put in a little extra usually as well as CA's only take 3.4L by the book.

    As long as the crank doesn't splash in oil, you have no issue. I've heard people running 4 litres..

    Also, one way valve trick post - http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?1...02#post1697402
    Last edited by jay1017; 15-09-2017 at 22:36.

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    Guest jay1017's Avatar
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    Also I've got a one way valve here if you want to pick it up! Free of course



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    When the turbo is really bad (/ rings blow by) the one way valve trick only works at idle and not high idle ~2000rpm.

    Turbo swap fixed it.

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    I was being a tad hopeful with the over full oil...
    Thanks Jay, appreciate the offer but I think I'm a bit too far away from you to drive for a one way valve! Thanks though!

    Anyway, I've done a fluid service over the weekend, not that it would help, but the oil and coolant were looking past it.

    Also did a hot compression test with 150psi across each cylinder.

    I also borrowed a turbo from a friend, in the hopes of swapping , unfortunately it's rusted tight to the elbow and down pipe and I couldn't separate it.

    Going to a breakers tomorrow for a one way valve in the hope that will temporarily fix it, the inlet is soaked with oil.

    Does anyone know the correct size?

    Is it still pointing at the turbo seals?
    Still can't quite understand how the seals could make smoke when rolling to a stop.

    Thanks again everyone.

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    The breather hose is 16mm. One way valves are usually about 12mm. Cut a bit of the vac hose the valve is attached to on the donor and then stuff the ends of that hose into the breather.

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    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Is it still pointing at the turbo seals?
    Still can't quite understand how the seals could make smoke when rolling to a stop.
    Valve needs to be positioned so air can flow out of the cam cover but cannot flow back in, this creates a slight negative pressure in the crank case which prevents oil leaking past the turbo seals.

    Has the car got a big exhaust?
    Thats usually what causes people to notice their seals are shot.

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    Thanks for the reply R3K1355. Car is completely standard.
    Just put a one way valve in, it was quite small maybe 8mm. Looks like the smoking has stopped!! However the one way valve has created a squeaking similar to belt squeal, when on idle and pulling a vacuum.
    Think the ID is too small on the check valve, it's also pulling quite a strong vacuum. Going to have to get a bigger one I think.

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    Well, I'm pretty stumped by the squealing noise. I think its a vacuum leak coming from somewhere after installing the check valve which has increased the vacuum, which I'm assuming is normal.
    Though the smoking on overrun has stopped, I now have smoke when the car is revved, this smells like the car is running rich.

    Another issue is that the car when it cold starts idles at around 500 RPM and has stalled a couple of times. When it warms up it idles at 850 900 nice and smoothly. I've cleaned out the ICV and that hasn't done anything. I've also checked the lines to the cold start valve and they are clear.

    Any ideas anyone?

    I'm starting to see why people complain about CA's, my SR never gave me any grief.

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    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Squeeking might be air drawn in from a split vacuum hose.

    If the car is standard you probably have the HSS, these are known to fail and cause problems.
    Also the vac lines are likely 25 years old, so it's likely at least one will have perished.

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    Back again, might have to re-title the thread as the smoking has been "fixed", just want to keep everything in one place.
    Still having issues with the cold start.
    Scouring the wiring diagrams and found a fault with the AAC, ended up that the AAC and the temp sensor cables had been swapped at some point!!
    which explains why I had a blown engine temp sensor.
    I've swapped the cables back over and replaced the temp sensor, but this made no difference to anything, which surprised me, could the ECU be damaged? I've cleared the codes and I'm getting the all clear "55"
    I've swapped the AAC and the PCV and that hasn't had an effect either.
    Bypassed the HSS, that also had no effect.

    Sprayed carb cleaner about and cant find any leaks. The squeaking does seem to come and go, but when it is squeaking pulling the dipstick silences it immediately.

    I'm clutching at straws now, I don't want to start playing with the car properly until its running correctly.

  17. #17
    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
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    Compression test next I think.

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    He already got 150 across all cylinders.

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    i would smoke test it to check for any leaks.

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    Yeah, compression check results were all okay.
    I've inquired about smoke testing before but never managed to find anything local to me, anyone know of any?

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