Is there a how to or guide anywhere which tells you how to properly test your vehicle for boost leaks and what to look out for?
I have boost leak tested the intercooler system and there were a few minor leaks which are sorted. However I have not put air through the turbo and checked that way. I know you need to take the oil cap off but that's about it.
Is it supposed to leak this way? What are the expectations?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I've got a boost leak tester kit thing and have used to good effect a few times on various cars, never tested anything but the intercooler system, so stick one side of the tester on intake manifold pipe work side and the other with the gauge on the pipe coming from the turbo hot pipe, the turbo itself never gets pressure tested or inlet manifold. If you test through turbo it won't help you as it's just a chamber with a compressor blade so seems pointless to me, same goes for Inlet manifold through to head and engine, this will prove very little
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
O have done what you say above and it's air tight. I have an issue where the car idles and boosts fine when cold but once warm the idle drops to 600 and it holds back on boost until about 3500 revs.Originally Posted by JC SX
I have checked all of the usual items and more and haven't resolved it, so I am suspecting the inlet manifold or a vac line or the dv or something!!!
Hence I want to know how to do the boost leak test of everything. That's how the garages do it. I am sure Jez did it like that too.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Block off the pipe that goes from the cam cover to pre turbo pipe either crimp it or cap it off turbo side
Feed air into the inlet trunk to the turbo just watch out as it's not really supposed to see positive pressure or if you wanna do it properly connect directly to the aluminium turbo inlet
Removed oil fill cap or dipstick
That's it on connections
Feed air into the system start low like 5psi and listen for anything big fix where needed
Turn it up in 5psi increments till you get to your target boost pressure keep fixing obvious leaks
Get some soapy water in a spray bottle and go mad on the joins like everywhere turbo,intercooler pipes, dump valve pipes including small lines, intske manifold and all the pcv pipes and look for bubbles
You may have some small bubbles on the turbo compressor housing
You should hear a very small leak coming from the oil cap hole
Basically anything other than those is a boost leak
Be very careful as if a pipe blows off or your adaptor slips out it will break things like fingers or face as it basicaly a bomb while under pressure
[QUOTE
Thi intake manifold does see pressure and do do all the small pipes connected to it apart from the Pcv valve and half the brake booster system
The reason I think it's best to test the turbo intake pipe is you test all the pressure stuff in position if you disconnect hotbpipes the pressure test the system and it's good then you wiggle it all over the place reconnecting it to the turbo you may have created a leak
This is great advice!! You are a star! I shall follow what you said above. I kinda knew what you said, but wanted someone who has done it with confidence to inspire me.
How much pressure is it ok to lose?
Also I have already experiences the bomb effect. I smashed my windscreen remember? Lol
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Kinda hard to say but a slight hiss from the oil cap is okay but you shouldn't really have any others but the ones your really bothered about is the ones you can hear obviously every little helps but they won't really have any effect on fueling
I saw the drama you had getting the new one fitted but didn't know that was the reason
Just thought of another place it's okay to leak and that will be a mbc or ebc solenoid
Can you guess what this will make
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
smoke testers are a god send for boost leaks. I guess you could use a 'smoke bomb' from screw fix etc.. that chimney people use.
Yes.. I saw a guy do it with a cigar. Tell me more about these smoke bombs!! I will have a look now too.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
That's exactly the pipe cap I have lol
I had to cut a few ridges all the way round to give the silicon hose something to bite into as it kept popping out
Really?? It's from a fish tank company on ebay
Did you have a mikalor clamp or jubilee?
I found out that screwfix do smoke pellets too.. gonna go get some now
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I hook mine upto the compressor intake on the turbo then turn the compressor on, start at 10psi at first but build upto 20psi. I found leaks in my vacuum pipes coming off the manifold, Idle control valve as well as one intercooler clip.
Thanks Daz. How much pressure loss per second is acceptable?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I have the compressor turned on and I go round everywhere spraying soapy water. I continue until there are no bubbles being created. Then there's no loss of pressure in the system.
So no gauge?? I have a tyre pressure gauge with a tube adapter which conveniently fits on the hot pipe. I have previously pressurised the system to 2 bar and it would slowly lose pressure.
I did just the intercooler system this way too until there was no loss of pressure at all.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I use the regulator on the compressor to control the pressure it holds it at. Next time I do it. I'll set the pressure and leave it.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
That's how I do it aswell
Sounds good as you have constant pressure while you find your leak and don't have to keep pumping it up lol. Will fit a pressure fitting to the cap then instead of the shrader
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Just block the pipe going to the pcv, a spark plug works well for this
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
