Hi guys
I've had a look online but haven't come across any detailed threads
But I was just wondering what can I get rid of on the engine? To tidy it up around the inlet area
I've read that you can get rid of the standard oil cooler if you go external oil cooler
It'll be on a street car with heater matrix still intact
Any information and pictures on this would be great help
Thank you in advance
There isn't really a lot you could get rid of, you could relocate fuse box and stuff if you wanted.
As Dastardly said.
Theres a few coolant lines you can delete and as you say the oil cooler can be changed for an external cooler.
Could get rid of the hot start solenoid, and carbon cannister if you've still got it although that's not really in the way of anything.
id say this is about as far as you can go on a stock engine setup. Its all wired up as well. you could probably make it neater by using a greddy style inlet manifold
Do you know a place where to buy a take off plate, as those found for sr20?Originally Posted by pointz
I want to get rid of the stock water to oil cooler.
Thanks for the reply's guys
I have an external oil cooler, would it be a case of taking the water to oil cooler off and using the stud in the block with a sandwich plate and oil filter or is there something that is needed for this to work?
What coolant lines are alright to delete, I don't want to mess it up haha
@norfy that looks tidy
Pic of my bay so far, debating weather to get rid of the power steering
Last edited by c41n3; 06-07-2017 at 07:37.
There are coolant/heating lines for the throttle body and the rear of the plenum, although IIRC the rear of the plenum also hooks into the heater matrix? (so it's not a case of delete the line, more just re-route)
You obviously have aftermarket intake, I assume it's not even got fittings for the stock coolant pipes?
Ah yeah I forgot about the throttlebody one, I have done away with that and the ones at the back of the plenum as my new one doesn't have them
The aac valve has been relocated underneath but only problem is where that now sits, the metal pipe that runs under the inlet is in the way
So i'm thinking of replacing that pipe for a silicone hose or even a braided line so it's abit more free to move with a T piece for the turbo line?
I hope you haven't done away with the 16mm hose from back of T-stat housing. It's the by-pass, without it there is no flow past the t-stat capsule to make it open.
So what is cooling the turbo when you switch off? Oil only or boiled coolant? If it has coolant ports and cast manifold and you just routed round the back of the head to the pump return collector, then you need an aux pump and timer. Without the thermosyphon circuit it will fill with steam, coke the bearings and turbo will last less than 20K miles (that's how long oil cooled turbos lasted on S12 before they added the coolant system). If it's a ball bearing core then without coolant will die in hours.and the ones at the back of the plenum as my new one doesn't have them
It'll have a t piece in there for the turbo line, i'll upload some photo's when I've actually done it
You can get rid of the air regulator (cold start). I did without problems.
If you ditch the stock oil snail make sure you get an oil thermostat for the radiator. Also, as I understand it, blocking the lines is bad for coolant pressure, so I just connected the 2 passages that went to the snail directly with a hose.
Actually I have a pic here: http://imgur.com/OZs27AJ
He wants a heater that works. Connecting the T that feeds the heater and cooler direct to the pump inlet will rob the heater.
CA it 180SX didn't have an oil cooler (was Nismo option). Just one outlet stub on block for heater feed. Longer bit of hose where the cooler T's into the pump inlet.
Last edited by skyshack; 15-06-2017 at 19:02.
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