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Thread: Keeping another 13 on the road.

  1. #1
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Keeping another 13 on the road.

    So picked up a 1994 90k mile auto s13 last night (7hr ish round trip due to not being able to go over 50 all the way home)

    I was pleasantly surprised how solud it was and how good vondition the sills were in as well as turret tops etc

    Body wise-

    Spoiler needs removing and rust sorted (as usual)
    Bonnet has some lacquer peel.
    Roof has some gluey shite on it.

    But had a very good poke around and only areas that need attention are-

    Small hole end of drivers sill inside rear arch.
    N/s chassis leg needs a section cut out and welded in.

    Engine needs a replacement head as has some corrosion around water passage.
    And do a manual conversion.

    I am attempting to tidy it up, get it running, full major service and sort the couple small areas of rust then sell it on.

    Will get pics later any suggestions welcome!
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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Guest nismo's Avatar
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    Looks pretty good condition. Good luck with it.

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nismo View Post
    Looks pretty good condition. Good luck with it.
    Cheers forgot to add it has been off the road since 08
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    ...Will get pics later any suggestions welcome!
    My only suggestion would be that you get your head examined, Rich. Lol.

    Not turned a wheel in 8 years !

    What do the wheel arches look like ? (By this I really mean the running gear and suspension).


    And where is the rest of the engine bay stuff ? Or have you already started stripping it ?

    PM me how much you paid for it, if you dare

  6. #6
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    My only suggestion would be that you get your head examined, Rich. Lol.

    Not turned a wheel in 8 years !

    What do the wheel arches look like ? (By this I really mean the running gear and suspension).


    And where is the rest of the engine bay stuff ? Or have you already started stripping it ?

    PM me how much you paid for it, if you dare
    Tbh it looks very good condition other than the obvious subframe rust. All tyres look healthy but going to get it running then mot to see where it stands!

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Ohh and all the inletside and camcovers are in the car!

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    Fair play mate. Mine was off the road for 12 years.
    I had hardly any rust & nothing structual.
    Good luck with it.

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    Looking forward to seeing this progress. Looks a nice example apart from the missing pieces engine wise lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dastardly View Post
    Looking forward to seeing this progress. Looks a nice example apart from the missing pieces engine wise lol.
    They're inside the car apparently.

    I reckon you've got your work cut out there. If there are any bits and bobs you need that I have in my stash, just ask. Subject to what happens with mine, I might have a pwodercoated rear subframe, lower arms, subby bushes, even a Stage 3+ setup coming available in the next few months.

  11. #11
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Yea everything engine wise is in the car i have been through it all this evening.

    Also poured some oil over the cam lobes and down each bore and turned over by hand.

    Going to put the starter back on tomorrow and compression test it.

    Now the problem i have is this corrosion on the waterway.



    Ideally if it has good compression i would like to avoid removing the head so is there any way of repairing this in situ?

    Going to jack it up tomorrow and get loads of pics of underneath.

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    Do you have a good engineering shop nearby ? This is just a guess but they might be able to grind out the rot and tig weld new metal in then reface it.

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Do you have a good engineering shop nearby ? This is just a guess but they might be able to grind out the rot and tig weld new metal in then reface it.

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    I do but if i can avoid taking the head off it will be more cost effective! I have been looking at this stuff which has been highly recommended however i don't know how it would work as the surface is vertical.

    http://www.alumiweld.com/h2uaw.html
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    use devcon its like chemical metal only 100% better. I used to use it in cylinder heads all the time. you mix the two parts together then its like a putty and you can shape it however you want. it can then be machined if needed. ive heard of engineering places using it to fix milling machine beds people have taken chunks out of.

    obviously you would have to remove all the loose powdery bits first.

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    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by green_rs13 View Post
    use devcon its like chemical metal only 100% better. I used to use it in cylinder heads all the time. you mix the two parts together then its like a putty and you can shape it however you want. it can then be machined if needed. ive heard of engineering places using it to fix milling machine beds people have taken chunks out of.

    obviously you would have to remove all the loose powdery bits first.
    Have you got a link to the devcon you would recommend?
    Done a search and it comes up with loads of different ones!

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    The only way I can see that you would get that level of corrosion is if it has been run with water instead of coolant for an extended period.

    If that is the case, the corrosion will be more extensive than you can see without taking the head off.

    Bodging something like Chemical Metal in there (CM isn't metal but resin BTW) isn't going to be a long term solution, IMO.

    If it was a keeper, I'd be tempted to try to buy another CA with gearbox and cannibalise the old engine for parts. Its a significant expense though.

    Why was it taken off the road in the first place ?

  17. #17
    Dorset & Hants Rep pointz's Avatar
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    I have no idea why it was taken off the road the guy i bought it off had it for a month then got told he had to move house and had no where to store it!

    It has/had proper coolant in there previously as some came out when loading it on the trailer.

    It is literally only on that one area (from what i can see obviously)
    The inlet manifold is fine as is the rest of the area around it.

    Could it of been a poor casting?

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    TBH I was of the same thought as jonny that the rest of the engine would also be 'rotten'.
    but you gave the impression that this was the only bit you could see and it was getting done on the cheap.

    this was the stuff I referred too although I didn't realise it was 100 a pot as I gained mine from someplace that was shutting down.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEVCON-ALU...EAAOSwWfFXkgeQ

    ive used it to reshape inlet ports but that was on racing engines that would be stripped and inspected after each race so cant comment on how long it would last on a street car what with heat cycling etc.. although I don't remember ever seeing any of them fall out/go bad etc.. on the racers.

  19. #19
    Guest Rochester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    Engine needs a replacement head as has some corrosion around water passage.
    Do you need the head you just sold me back ?

    Not a problem if you do, I have another couple in store .

    Just pay me three times what I paid you and we're sorted

  20. #20
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    Dude that stuff you showed me yesterday can be used vertically. I just don't know if the head will survive the heat - it requires a blowtorch to hit several hundred degrees. Blowtorches heat pattern isnt very focused. I wonder whether it would be better to get someone to build it with a tig welder as it will mean less time heating and the heat put in will be more localised, minimising chances of distorting the head.

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