How can I check my vvt is still working?
How can I check my vvt is still working?
Quick easy check: 1. clutch down 1st gear and go on/off the throttle, you will hear the solenoid click every time you pass 1050rpm*
Or
2. unplug it and go for a drive, will feel noticeably more sluggish below 5700rpm*
or
3. get the multimeter out and to a continuity test on the earth pin at the plug as your triggering the solenoid by doing 1. 12v is always on, ECU earths the solenoid to activate it.
or
4. consult cable and ECUtalk software, see when the ECU switches the VCT/VVT
*Assuming these points haven't been moved during mapping.
I still think 1st thing should be a phone call to Jez for his opinion since he mapped it and knows the car.
The longer exhaust cam will help you up top but yes, that is likely costing you somewhat in the lower-mid RPMs. Standard CR too? 272° is enormously long for a fairly mild output with low CR engine.
HKS have a useful little plot on their site showing a comparison between some different cam setups but unfortunately doesn't include the 272 exhaust, gives you a rough idea for all things being equal though: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produc...ngine/db/13416
I really need to get round to writing something about cams when I get an afternoon spare, it's an awkward topic.
Last edited by zeppelin101; 13-09-2016 at 07:53.
I will see what I get when mine is fitted and mapped. Fitting tomorrow hopefully.
Standard cams with Greddy plenum and FMIC, 740's, standard other mods with a PowerFC.
I'm sure my turbo (2871) is on full chat by late 2k's perhaps early 3, yours comes on at around mid 4K
Should be interesting to read Zep. I've forgotten so much over the years, but I don't think you need uprated cams for that turbo. Be good to see if someone could fit adjustable cam wheels on the standard spec cams to see what is possible. A bit of extra lift would be nice.
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Sure would like to see a dyno on that.
The 2871 hits full bost at 4k RPM+/-200 on a descent setup SR20DET. Really nothing much you can do to change that with out increased displacement.
Her is a compariosn to my old SR20DET wiht the GTX2867. Mods listen in link.(all figures are WHP);
http://www.trak-life.com/dyno-sheet-...tx2867r-308kw/
Your spool is almost ~400 RPM slower on a smaller turbo
For a street car i wouldn't recommend anything above 256 cams for a small turbo like the 2863 or 2867.
How did you mount the actuator? There are no mounting lugs for it!
FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits
My actuator is longer so it needs to bolt in the existing position. Looks like a custom bracket is required for mine.
FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits
Had this exact same problem trying to mount my HKS actuator to my GTX2867R
Now on the hunt for the Garrett adjustable actuator bracket, and will then shorten the actuator arm.
JC
This was my last RR at HDev using top mounted GTX2867R, 256 cams in/out, 740 injectors, splitfire coils, hks massive intercooler.
As you can see boost is coming in at 3500-3750
Peak power it made 400.1hp
My previous set up, bottom mount, 740's, HDev manifold, GT2871R :-
This made 416.5hp, at 3750-4000
JC
JC what boost did you run to just touch 400 on the gtx?
Mines currently capped at 1.2bar because my coilpacks were missfiring over 1.3 . Just saving for an upgrade now!
From my memory of the 2nd page of the boost chart 400hp and a little more was around 1.8kg, From my experience I saw little gain on the gtx, even with enlarging the intake to maf and air filter etc and running top mount. I am now setting it up on a Tomei expreme bottom mount manifold&elbow and hope to get a better comparison to the GT2871R I had before.
I went Splitfire coil packs from FRsport to get the best ignition possible, that and fresh ngk iridium 7's every service seems to work.
JC