http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/141600009386
Anyone use these wheel nuts before. Are they any good ? Or cheap rubbish don't want my wheels comeing off I need some slim ones if anybody has any recommendations
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/141600009386
Anyone use these wheel nuts before. Are they any good ? Or cheap rubbish don't want my wheels comeing off I need some slim ones if anybody has any recommendations
I'd have a chat with Rare rims on here as its not something you want to skimp on, personally I'd always use steel wheel nuts too
I have used the D1 spec internal ones.
I had no issues up until I torqued them up too much with a torque wrench in which I ended up snapping three in such a way it was an absolute nightmare to get them off.
I had the same set on my s13 drift car which went through alot of tyre changes and wheels on/off for various reasons and then put the same set on my s14a with no issues to any of the threads or anything.
Moral of the story they are good just dont over torque them!
If I could prove it, I would bet my bottom dollar that any Aluminium wheel nut failure that people have seen has had something to do with over torquing.
I ran my Aluminium Work Wheel nuts for 6 years through many wheel off jobs and never once had a case of falling off or loosening. The torque seems extremely low, but that's part of it.
I'd buy these instead http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BUDDY-CLUB...0AAOSwEK9T4NlQ
Yes I know they're 4 times the price...
What about driftworks internal drive hex key ones? always been alright with me
The Works ones aren't a "standard" grade of aluminium from memory whereas the cheaper ones look to be a straight 6061 or 7075 (with no temper grade...). But you're probably right; the ally ones expand with heat more than the steel ones so over torquing them just makes them chew themselves to bits.
4 times the price ? They're £30 for 4 nuts. That's £120 if you're 5-stud (and using lock nuts for the other 4) !
I've been looking for a set that won't go rusty in 12 months but at £120 a set, I can replace the crappy ones every year for 12 years
My chromed Nissan ones are still mint after 20 years and I bet they didn't cost that much
EDIT: Sorry, just realised you meant 4 times the price of the D1 spec ones That's still a LOT of money for a set of wheel nuts
I got a set off Dan SRB years ago, think they were cheaper back then...
Dont buy Aluminium nuts.
They're not allowed by the MSA, and they didn't ban them because they were too good and gave an unfair advantage
Make sure any nuts you buy are the correct seating for your wheels.
Aluminium nut failures are often from over torquing, but also if not regularly removed and refitted they can corrode in place. You shouldn't grease or lube nuts, as it stops them being torqued correctly.
If you want colourful nuts, buy colourful steel ones, but steer clear of aluminium. Yes, being steel when marked and scratched the finish will deteriorate - but they're not too pricey and above all else they're safe and fit for purpose.
Is it possible to get quality steel ones (preferably chromed for my liking) that aren't over £100 for a set and that can survive being put on and taken off a few times a year ?
Internal drive I would say are best - most of ours are 17mm so as slim as they go - but it's down to your sockets whether you mark the wheels.
Tuner nuts are what I opt for personally as it saves making wheels when they come on and off.
Chrome is the hardest wearing finish, the others dont seem as tough. We see all brands and are always getting samples looking for the next great leap forwards - but they're pretty consistent, chrome is the electrically plated on finish, so it's toughest.
Don't buy shit cheap Ally nuts. Spend the £££