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Thread: Propshaft UJ joint inspevtion? How? And what are the specific lenvths

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    Propshaft UJ joint inspevtion? How? And what are the specific lenvths

    How do I go about testing the joints in my propshaft? Also want to know what all the specific lengths of shaft of for s13/14.

    Basically I've got something clunking in the drivetrain that's driving me mad.

    Happens when on or off the throttle and judder when set of from standing. Feels like having two biting points of a clutch

    Replacing my Diff at the moment to eliminate that, pretty sure it not bushes as they are all poly.

    Want to check the prop while I have it half off
    Last edited by Micraplay; 17-01-2016 at 08:29.

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    I got mine checked over and balanced by a transmission specialist. if you have one local, might be worth a phone call


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    My clunking is coming from the drive shafts mainly might be worth checking them

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    How long has it been doing this?
    And what was done just before it started?

    Middle prop bearing bracket on the right way round?

    Rear drive shafts fail if they take a kerb end on.

    Someone changed the diff pumpkin?

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    It's been doing it ages now, like years, but the cars covered very few miles in the last 5 years. I'm now driving it daily and it's doing my head in. I swapped the Diff to a spare I have a few years ago and it was no ifferent. Today I've fitted an s14 Diff and it does seem to be less now. Last year I swapped the driveshafts out for another pair and no change.
    It's got a brand new centre bearing/bush on the prop, pretty sure it's correct way round. No different.

    I honestly can't remember when it started or why, but I'm struggling to cure it!

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    Just to be sure, which way round should the centre bracket be?!

    Fan is unclear because it shows a nut and bolt going through from top to bottom, mine is bolted upwards into the floor

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    Which is top that goes up against the floor

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    Garbage from FSM deleted see post below.
    Last edited by skyshack; 18-01-2016 at 19:01.

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    Are you 100% sure?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micraplay View Post
    Are you 100% sure?
    Damn workshop manual is WRONG! The supplement doesn't have a correction either. That's how they are shown in the manual on page PD-4. Actually labelled "Center bearing upper mounting bracket" and "Center bearing lower mounting bracket".

    But yes it goes in the other way up.
    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...ight=propshaft

    shaft length (spider to spider)

    Front manual 410mm
    Front auto 430mm

    Rear ABS 585mm
    Rear non ABS 600mm

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    Guest Rochester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyshack View Post
    Rear ABS 585mm
    Rear non ABS 600mm
    Do I take it that the Auto rear shafts are the same as the manual rear shafts ?
    That the only difference is the length of the fronts ?
    For the avoidance of doubt and all that....

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    if you're into replacing the centre bearing, the qashqai still uses the same part number on the 4wd models.

    the UJs are a pain - the driveshaft place I used for shortening my prop told me the originals weren't in great condition and since they're crimped in, they're not rebuildable so whilst I was doing that job, ended up getting new rebuildable ends welded in.

    how you diagnose - i'm not sure - mine felt a bit .. gritty(?) but I don't think they were clunking so I think there's quite a way to go before they're completely shot and making bad noises.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    the prop ends are staked in. they can just be pressed out/replaced and re-staked.
    all s13 rear sections are the same.except for early non abs cars who have a longer rear prop section .
    when the prop UJ's start to fail they tend to play up (make a humming noise) on over run.

    to check them i would apply the handbreak, go under the car and twist the prop with my hand in either direction, looking for slop in the joints.

    dead centre bearings can usually be traced by driving along and pressing the clutch pedal up and down.

    if i were you i would try driving and pressing the clutch up and down, then doing the same checks but pulling the handbreak to lock the wheels this will help you defferentiate between running gear and suspension noises.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rochester View Post
    Do I take it that the Auto rear shafts are the same as the manual rear shafts ?
    That the only difference is the length of the fronts ?
    For the avoidance of doubt and all that....
    Yes.
    Front length depends on transmission type. So an auto to manual conversion only needs the front part of the prop shaft swapping over.

    Rear prop shaft length depends on diff nose length which is longer if it has an ABS sensor. So ABS diff need a shorter rear prop shaft. Someone that welded an open non ABS diff, swapped the ABS diff companion flange on to non ABS diff to match the prop they had. The ABS toothed ring was exposed.

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    Good info chaps.
    Thanks. I took a vid of my driveshafts but I can't upload it to post.
    When I rotate the prop, the Diff transfers the movement to the driveshafts, but it looks as tho there's a lot of give in the inner joints.

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    have you checked to see if the drive shaft bolts are tight?
    try putting the handbreak on and then turning the prop back and fourth by hand.
    you will have some play in the diff(backlash)

    the only real problems people get with CV joints is (1)exploding boots from geomasters.
    (2)the ball bearings smashing there way through the cups because you have 1000bhp
    (3) the have slid sideways into a curb and punctured the inner grease seal.this then leaks grease into the output flange.
    cups.

    TBH, I would nut and bolt check the whole under side of the car.

  17. #17
    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    https://youtu.be/KpLzzklaQRU

    You can see the ends of the shafts rotating with the Diff, but the shafts themselves barely moving.
    Last edited by Micraplay; 20-01-2016 at 16:16.

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    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    Any thoughts on this vid?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Micraplay View Post
    Any thoughts on this vid?
    You need to replace CV inner joint, easier to swap the whole drive shaft. Should be able to find one second hand. They last forever unless abused by one of the 3 means that Green_rs13 has listed.

    Over 650bhp it's considered prudent to switch to 300ZX shafts.

  20. #20
    Guest Micraplay's Avatar
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    It's my second set of shafts this and both been the same.

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