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Thread: A quick how to use VAG coil on SR20

  1. #21
    Guest Drifter's Avatar
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    Well, it's all sorted. I dropped the dwell down to 1.8ms, but it still miss fired. Had a search and found that the coils need a solid 5v minimum trigger from the ecu to work properly and we were only seeing 2.8v. Took the ECU back to Gary@APT and Simon from Specialist Components for a couple of changes and it's now working perfectly. I might get it on the scope later to see what it's doing.

  2. #22
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    Did anyone keep the timing loop when making their loom? Watched a video and the guy doing his said he didn't keep it as his mapper doesn't use the timing loop. Don't know whether to put a loop in when I build mine or not?


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  3. #23
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    Loop is very unreliable, I didn't bother keeping it. I check timing using a short plug led between plug 1 and coilpack 1 and clipping the timing gun to that

  4. #24
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    Just carried out this r8 coil pack conversion and there is quite a gap between coil and rocker cover. I'm wondering if there is a UK company who sell the mounting plate to stop any dirt or dust being able to get into the spark plug hole? Is this an issue? I've seen 50ignite do one but they are based abroad which sell it with their conversion kit

  5. #25
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    I am driving more than 6 months whitout any plate on coil, and have no problem at all.


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  6. #26
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    r8 coil problems

    Quote Originally Posted by meaculpa View Post


    I am driving more than 6 months whitout any plate on coil, and have no problem at all.

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    Fair enough. I have tried the R8 coils to hopefully smooth out idle which has been a bit rough since installing tomei poncam 258, The R8 coils did seem to make the car cold start a bit better and car seemed to pull strong when warmed up but when you approach a junction the revs kept falling to point of stalling (even when warm), so have reverted back to standard coils and the stalling has stopped, idle is 200rpm-ish higher. Need to work out why this is happening- anybody got any ideas? Could it be the idle control valve or something related?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by screaminsilvia1 View Post
    Fair enough. I have tried the R8 coils to hopefully smooth out idle which has been a bit rough since installing tomei poncam 258, The R8 coils did seem to make the car cold start a bit better and car seemed to pull strong when warmed up but when you approach a junction the revs kept falling to point of stalling (even when warm), so have reverted back to standard coils and the stalling has stopped, idle is 200rpm-ish higher. Need to work out why this is happening- anybody got any ideas? Could it be the idle control valve or something related?
    How rough is the idle with the cams as the longer duration will effect it slightly but not greatly. The coils should not effect it so you must have an underlying issue. If idle was good prior to installing cams then I would suggest double checking your cam timing. Have you set these with adjustable cam gears or straight swap - again poncams shouldn't upset idle much based on standard timing so have you upset the CAS position whilst installing the cams?

    Also you say you were able to re-install the standard coils so do you still have the ignition amp in the loom? Remember you don't use an ignition amp with the R8 coils as there is one built into each coil.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by s200rat View Post
    How rough is the idle with the cams as the longer duration will effect it slightly but not greatly. The coils should not effect it so you must have an underlying issue. If idle was good prior to installing cams then I would suggest double checking your cam timing. Have you set these with adjustable cam gears or straight swap - again poncams shouldn't upset idle much based on standard timing so have you upset the CAS position whilst installing the cams?

    Also you say you were able to re-install the standard coils so do you still have the ignition amp in the loom? Remember you don't use an ignition amp with the R8 coils as there is one built into each coil.

    The idle when oil warm is good- usual cam slightly lumpy but not excessive. It's when you start from cold- it sounds like 3 cylinders at first then after couple of minutes it smooths out to aforementioned idle. It's when I start from cold I have to press the throttle and hold it at 1.5-2k revs to stop it stalling for up to 10 secs.

    The idle and everything else was fine prior to cam install. HD installed these and mapped the car. No adjustable cam gears just new BC springs and cams straight swap out. Have spoke to them when it was done and was told to bring it back to them but they are so far away and would have to leave car with them which is not ideal.

    I did revert back to old coils with ignition amp and cars all back to same scenario I was at prior to r8 coils, i.e. Cold start stalling issue if do not apply throttle. But at least it doesn't die at junctions now. Scratching my head why this is the case?

    The coil leads have twin ground and I ensured they both have good connections- why would r8 coils be worse than standard??

  9. #29
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    Quick question on this given the grief I had with the Skyline ECU, are people using these on Apexi Power FC's with no issues? Got a suspected spark issue which is likely the 10 or so year old Splitfires

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by screaminsilvia1 View Post
    The coil leads have twin ground and I ensured they both have good connections- why would r8 coils be worse than standard??
    That is an odd one - the cams aren't extreme so shouldn't effect cold starts. and R8 coils should only improve the spark.

    do you have any more info on the car? i.e. what mods/state of tune as I believe there is something more to it than just the ignition. the R8 coils are far more capable than the Nissan units and allowed me to run huge spark gaps when I trialled the limits. I would be looking at the wiring first especially round the suspension turret area as it gets cooked from the turbo.

    stalling at junctions is common air reversal issue in the intake so would be interesting to hear what you have installed here. Anything else changed on the intake like dump valve and breather?

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter View Post
    Quick question on this given the grief I had with the Skyline ECU, are people using these on Apexi Power FC's with no issues? Got a suspected spark issue which is likely the 10 or so year old Splitfires
    Personally not used a PFC with the VW coils but cant see any issue, really all the ECU is doing is triggering the coil by switching to/from earth. both Nissan and the VW coils use an ignitor amp to drive the coils, stand allow amp in the case of the Nissan vs built in for VW, so the current that the ecu see's remain low.

  12. #32
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    S200rat

    Just pmed you- can’t see issue with wiring and hks dump valve removed as leaking boost
    Quote Originally Posted by s200rat View Post
    That is an odd one - the cams aren't extreme so shouldn't effect cold starts. and R8 coils should only improve the spark.

    do you have any more info on the car? i.e. what mods/state of tune as I believe there is something more to it than just the ignition. the R8 coils are far more capable than the Nissan units and allowed me to run huge spark gaps when I trialled the limits. I would be looking at the wiring first especially round the suspension turret area as it gets cooked from the turbo.

    stalling at junctions is common air reversal issue in the intake so would be interesting to hear what you have installed here. Anything else changed on the intake like dump valve and breather?

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by s200rat View Post
    Personally not used a PFC with the VW coils but cant see any issue, really all the ECU is doing is triggering the coil by switching to/from earth. both Nissan and the VW coils use an ignitor amp to drive the coils, stand allow amp in the case of the Nissan vs built in for VW, so the current that the ecu see's remain low.
    Cool, looks like the Dwell time is about the same as well

  14. #34
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    Anybody had problems boosting after fitting vag coils? (I've used 1.8t coils) when I hit the top end of boost it dies off and jumps around a bit

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  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by teejayy View Post
    Anybody had problems boosting after fitting vag coils? (I've used 1.8t coils) when I hit the top end of boost it dies off and jumps around a bit

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    You should always use the R8 coils, as they are the best. However, regardless of which coil you use, it should be better and provide a better spark than the stock 20+ year old design.

    You sure its not a coincidence?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    You should always use the R8 coils, as they are the best. However, regardless of which coil you use, it should be better and provide a better spark than the stock 20+ year old design.

    You sure its not a coincidence?

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    I picked the 1.8t because they should be able to handle more than enough on what I'm running, and also so I can fit the spark plug cover back on. I do have an underlying issue where it's running a little rough on idle (hence the cage conversion hoping it would sort it but didn't) but it used to boost strong before I did the conversion and I haven't changed anything else

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    Quote Originally Posted by teejayy View Post
    I picked the 1.8t because they should be able to handle more than enough on what I'm running, and also so I can fit the spark plug cover back on. I do have an underlying issue where it's running a little rough on idle (hence the cage conversion hoping it would sort it but didn't) but it used to boost strong before I did the conversion and I haven't changed anything else

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    I had a similar issue. Have you checked thoroughly for a boost leak? I did the coil pack conversion when I had a boost leak. I pressure tested everything and sealed it all, and it then turned out that the recirc dump valve was leaking off air

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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    I had a similar issue. Have you checked thoroughly for a boost leak? I did the coil pack conversion when I had a boost leak. I pressure tested everything and sealed it all, and it then turned out that the recirc dump valve was leaking off air

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    Tbh I did think it seemed like a boost leak, but I was running about 21 psi and it boosted fine up to max before dying out and presumed it wouldn't get that high if it did have a leak. It's worth a check anyway I suppose

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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by teejayy View Post
    Tbh I did think it seemed like a boost leak, but I was running about 21 psi and it boosted fine up to max before dying out and presumed it wouldn't get that high if it did have a leak. It's worth a check anyway I suppose

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    That's when it's most likely, because there is a lot more pressure so bigger leak and bigger problem. Mine was most apparent on idle and at the higher revs.

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