Can I take all the shims back out and pair them up using a vernier? Or do I need this special tool? I really don't understand why there would need to be different sizes
Can I take all the shims back out and pair them up using a vernier? Or do I need this special tool? I really don't understand why there would need to be different sizes
And it was smooth as butter before I took it apart. Except from the horrid misfire due to the cam
All the rockers have been replaced with newer units as mine were Carboned up like I have never seen before
The shims are different(sometimes) to make up for differences in machining and also to set the valve heights.
When i checked mine they were all the same size and the valve heights were all within 25 micron which is what the shims come in so didn't need to change anything.
Have you got decent oil pressure when idling?
As mentioned the vvt sprocket could be the noise and needs oil pressure to shut up if its worn. I would take the tappets out and bleed them as per the service manual and go from there checking the cam caps etc as you go.
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I'm going to vernier the size of each shim as I go along, but does anyone sell the height measurement tool I will need to match valve to shim if they do happen to be wildly different? I've seen a few diy jobs but it seems to vulnerable to inaccuracy to me
I made one with on old lifter and a DTI
Chances are all your shims would be 3mm, every SR I have stripped down to date has 3mm shims, I would think Nissan are very precise when building the engines so used all the same shims. The different thickness shims would be used for valve seat grinding/replacing.
Phew Well that sounds like I may be in luck then and haven't totally ballsed it up. I've got a digital caliper so I'll check when I bleed the tappets this weekend anyway.
Thanks for all the helpful advice aswell guys it really is greatly appreciated. 👍
Excuse the ignorance but what is a DTI?Originally Posted by diamondsink
Department of trade and industry says google
Dial test indicator
Any resolution? I'm not that far from you if your car is drive able?
I am not certain but I got the exhaust lifters bled today and it seems to sound better. The car is driveable, where are you?
Well... update on the car I really bled all the tappets found one that had lost its retaining collar and replaced it and found an upside down plain shim and I really torqued and cleaned the oil ways on the camshaft retainers. Go to check if it sounds better....
And it doesn't start.. I've got fuel. So much that it floods when I turn it. I know I have compression. And by taking a spark plug out I can see that there is no spark in the plug itself but there is spark when I earth it to the rocker cover.
My best guess is that something (nats?) has cut the earth circuit for the spark. I tried the trick of linking the f4 plug 35+36 but nothing. The nats light was still on and the fob still worked as it should. I'm truly at a loss.
Sorted! Cas was being a bellend somehow. Reset it and away she goes.
Still sounds like death but I'm now 100% it's vvt. It follows all of the normal trends people have said about ie. Driving under load it's silent, when I let off and coast there she is again.
Thanks for all the input so far guys.
The thing I'm now not certain on is this.
I'm not sure if the vvt is doing anything? It makes noises but by the feel of the car it's got literally nothing low down. Really laggy and nasty with a proper kick when it comes on cam and boost. It's not like I've even got a performance machine here. It's all standard bar a front mount.
I checked the vvt solenoid for operation by making a 12v circuit to it with the cam retainer off and it spurted some out through the hole so that works. It's just like the unit isn't doing what it's supposed to.
ive had the timing on one cam a tooth out before and has a really spooly, laggy and gutless.
The noise will be the sprocket
Gahh time to splash out on a Christmas sprocket for me.
Ive checked the chain timing every time I have pulled the cams out and moved them around just to make sure I've not cocked it up when pulling it about. Tdc has intake cam 1.5 links above the head line on the mark and exhaust is on the mark slightly to right of its top position as it is in the FSM
Right guys and girls. I am in dire, desperate, dreadful need of an oil pump must be In known good working order but really I will take anything that pushes oil about the engine
Tbh i would be thinking about buying a running engine. If youve got low oil pressure then bottom end will probably be worn too.
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