Forging an SR20DET, Whats needed?

[chrispy]

Hi guys,

I need a bit of help on specing up parts for Forging my SR20DET.

I currently have low comperssion on a few cyliners so my engine needs to come apart anyway.

I'm looking for around 400BHP but mainly just a reliable set up that will be good on the race track, also i have about a 3k budget.

What i need help with is:

BOTTOM END

Forged Pistons - compession ratio, brand? Size (if the block bores are ok)
Whats the biggest the block can bored to if there is bore damage? (and then obviously fitting a bigger piston)
Forged Rods - Brand?
Is ARP Rod Bolts & Headbolts the only "bolts" i should upgrade?
ACL Bigends and mains
Anything else?

HEAD

What CAMS - Brand and lift profile?
Adjustable cam sprockets - is there a benifit or draw back from these?
Springs?
Lifters? I have read about solid lifters (what cams need solid lifters)

Have i missed anything from the head or from anything from the enigne?

Cheers

Chris

[jumpbike]

for that power just pistons and rods will be needed to be reliable, stick to standard bore and 8-8.5:1 CR if not damaged, just hone it. I wouldn't go more than 1mm over bore if you can help it.
Standard cams will work but maybe a step 1 or 2, I believe HKS is recommended. Anything more or a high lift cam like BC you need to change the springs too.
Depending on use of the car it might be worth looking at a gear box conversion for reliability.

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Rods and pistons, brand is up to you (depends on budget). I'd go with a max of 87mm on a standard block and stick with close to 8.5:1 comp ratio.

Other parts to consider (list from my last order!):

Nissan Genuine OEM Crank Thrust Washer Bearings SR20DET
Nissan Genuine OEM Timing Chain Tensioner Assembly S13 S14 S15 SR20DET
Nissan OEM SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Curved Slack Side Bolt
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Curved Slack Side
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Side Bolt (Newer Style)
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Straight Tension Side
Nissan Genuine OEM Timing Chain Sprocket SR20DET
Nissan OEM S14 S15 SR20DET Front Timing Cover Oil Pump Assembly
Nissan Genuine OEM S14 S15 SR20DET Water Pump Assembly
Nissan Genuine OEM Complete Engine Gasket Kit (Set) S14 SR20DET RWD
Apexi 814-N106 (87mm x 1.1mm) Metal Head Gasket SR20DET S13 S14 S15
ACL 4B2960H/X Race Rod Bearing Set Nissan SR20DET
ACL 5M2964H/X Race Main Bearing Set Nissan SR20DE/SR20DET
ARP Pro Series Upgraded 12pt Flywheel Bolt Kit SR20DET
ARP 102-4701 Engine Head Studs Bolts Kit Nissan SR20DET RWD
ARP 202-5402 SR20 Hardened 12 pt Engine Main Studs Set

I'd have the head rebuilt while it's off and would always upgrade the valve springs (new cams and rockers if it comes within budget).

[BLAKTOOTH]

Rods and pistons, brand is up to you (depends on budget). I'd go with a max of 87mm on a standard block and stick with close to 8.5:1 comp ratio.

Other parts to consider (list from my last order!):

Nissan Genuine OEM Crank Thrust Washer Bearings SR20DET
Nissan Genuine OEM Timing Chain Tensioner Assembly S13 S14 S15 SR20DET
Nissan OEM SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Curved Slack Side Bolt
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Curved Slack Side
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Side Bolt (Newer Style)
Nissan SR20DE(T) Timing Chain Guide- Straight Tension Side
Nissan Genuine OEM Timing Chain Sprocket SR20DET
Nissan OEM S14 S15 SR20DET Front Timing Cover Oil Pump Assembly
Nissan Genuine OEM S14 S15 SR20DET Water Pump Assembly
Nissan Genuine OEM Complete Engine Gasket Kit (Set) S14 SR20DET RWD
Apexi 814-N106 (87mm x 1.1mm) Metal Head Gasket SR20DET S13 S14 S15
ACL 4B2960H/X Race Rod Bearing Set Nissan SR20DET
ACL 5M2964H/X Race Main Bearing Set Nissan SR20DE/SR20DET
ARP Pro Series Upgraded 12pt Flywheel Bolt Kit SR20DET
ARP 102-4701 Engine Head Studs Bolts Kit Nissan SR20DET RWD
ARP 202-5402 SR20 Hardened 12 pt Engine Main Studs Set

I'd have the head rebuilt while it's off and would always upgrade the valve springs (new cams and rockers if it comes within budget).

Plus valve stem seals and spray bars. VTC sprocket...

[bahis]

I wouldn't get ARP main studs. As with Them You need to get the block line bored. Standard bolts Are strong enough.
No need for new spray bars unless they Are damaged. Just clean Them well and check that none of the holes Are blocked.

[Chriscooke]

Watching this with interest. Will get mine done eventually and I've already got a built head so should keep the costs down a touch.

[sx-swifty]

I have a set of brian crower stage 2 (264) cams and a set of apex adjustable cams gears forsale if your interested they are brand new.

[jackm]

As said, for 400 I would go oem apart from pistons and rods (whatever you can afford. Bore out to .5 if you want). Set of main,Conroe and thrust bearings (acl are popular).
Then for me I would go new valve springs and rockers (bc/tomei/hks springs and oem rockers) and tomei poncams of you want cams (not neccesary but I would get rid of vvt if you are as it will kill the unit quicker ie rattle). If you want oem hg I don't see why not, plenty of people run then still at good hp but of you bore out you will need an aftermarket one like tomei, hks or cosworth.

Really depends on what you can afford, I see a budget of 3k but what about the build itself? Got priced for that yet?

Talk to desa on here for the gasket kit and timing chain kit. Good guy and good prices!

[chrispy]

I wouldn't get ARP main studs. As with Them You need to get the block line bored. Standard bolts Are strong enough.
No need for new spray bars unless they Are damaged. Just clean Them well and check that none of the holes Are blocked.

Are the ARP main studs not a direct replacement for the standard studs?

Why does fitting the ARP studs mean it would need to be Bored? (do you mean using a torque plate?)

[chrispy]

Oh and i'll be rebuilding the engine. My friend builds the McLaren MP4 race car engines so he can help me out if i supply him with some German Beer!

[piman2k]

You can buy factory fit ARP studs/bolts for both the head and the block.

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

Are the ARP main studs not a direct replacement for the standard studs?

Why does fitting the ARP studs mean it would need to be Bored? (do you mean using a torque plate?)

If you go with the ARP main studs you need to get the block line honed after they've been torqued down as they clamp differently to the standard bolts

[chrispy]

Just bringing this thread up again.

Can i reuse my old OEM main bolts? Or do I HAVE to replace them?

[Actual_Ben_Taylor]

You can reuse them

[spin king]

So i dont get ripped off yet again who/where is it best to buy uprated engine parts. Bought cams and pistons from America never arrived

[green_rs13]

I found conceptua are pretty much the same as buying from FRsport price wise, but without the gamble on import tax. phone them for a better than ebay price.

TBH mate if you are just going to stay standard(ish) so no more than 350 odd HP then I would just fit the 54C pistons and rods out of an S14/S15 or most s13'black tops'.. I think the rods are stronger on the s14/s15's. the main deciding factor will be the condition of your cylinder bores. by that I mean check to see if they are oval in the middle and not just if they have a lip on top. if they are out of spec then you want a rebore so require oversize pistons.

no point getting carried away and chucking money at it for no reason (says the guy who just chucked loads of money at a 'built engine')

but then DESA on here seems to be good on price for OEM gasket sets.

a basic shopping list would be,
cosworth metal headgasket ( check japseed for price, stock thickness is 1.1mm) but only if you skim the head and block or else it will leak.

OEM timing chain kit (buy an S14A / S15 on as it has the updated metal guides)

OEM gasket set. use OEM headgasket if not skimming head and block.

ACL, main, rod and thrust bearings (EBAY). measure/polish your crank before ordering to get correct size.

OIL PUMP, if you skim your block then buy a whole front cover assembly (I think the s14/s15 one fits red top), if not then just buy the actual pump.ACL do a good one.P2M is also decent and about £100. or measure and refit yours.

Oil PICK UP PIPE s13 has a shit oil pickup so fit an S14/S15 one. or at least mod yours.

PISTON RINGS if sticking with stock pistons, hastings or other brands.

SPIGOT BEARING. for the back of your crank


that's about all I can think of. I wouldn't bother with uprated head bolts etc..

[spin king]

Cheers... i asume thats you gaz moose???


Its Tony...

[Scottie]

frsport are good from LA have used them for ten years even visited them a few months ago

on the ACL bearings i got told not to buy the race versions as they are designed for replacement on rebuild every so many k miles

[green_rs13]

yeah its me Gaz.

engine spec depends what you want to use it for and what levels of power/abuse its going to take.

id agree with Scotties line about racing bearings.

[spin king]

No more than 350 no longer getting drifted