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Thread: Lifting Points

  1. #1
    Guest lewisw's Avatar
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    Lifting Points

    Hi all,

    Right I know that jack points have been done to death, but I have a new question, this weekend I'm planning on doing an oil change, and I've got one of these to lift it with,

    Where should I set the pads to hold up the car?
    Also gonna be fitting some new tyres so am quite looking forward to this weekend!!

    Here's a pic of the car as I've not posted one yet,

    Cheers,
    Lewis

  2. #2
    Now with 400bhp....
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    The look of that machine scares me, I'd use normal jacks and stands tbh. Car looks nice though
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    Guest lewisw's Avatar
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    Ah okay, was planning on getting some underseal on it as well whilst it was up there, would that be possible with jacks and stands?
    Cheers, had it a couple months now, really enjoying it

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    on my 2 poster I aim for the forward most mounts on the rear subframe and the front chassis rails. you don't really have much adjustment on that setup.
    it wouldn't surprise me if you had to jack the car up to get it under.

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    I guess it depends on how much you trust your sills!

    The factory support points are fine for lifting the car if they're in good condition. Mine were pretty bendy prior to rebuilding them. Line up the grooves in the pads with the reinforced bit of sill and give it a whirl!





  6. #6
    Guest Con2K's Avatar
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    That really is overkill. Ur likely to have to jack it up to get it on there anyway. A decent jack with something like a hockey puck would work to avoid damage to the car and spread the load. Also,it's an advantage to have the car on a jack, tipped towards the sump plug to aid drainage.

    Looks tidy car. Sell it to me and i'll change the oil.

    As for jacking them up i'm doing the underseal on mine. It's been on axles stands for weeks, outside, clambering around it. It's fine. Again, cushioned the jack to avoid damaging the car. As for underseal, don't just chuck more on top. Strip what you can and see if it's started to rust behind. A common killer you don't see until it's too late as the rot takes hold BEHIND perfectly looking underseal.

  7. #7
    Guest lewisw's Avatar
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    I did think I'd have to jack it up first, so should I avoid putting it up on that lift to avoid any damage to the rails underneath?

  8. #8
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    I wouldn't trust lifting it without knowing the sills are decent...

    Just jack it and a few axles wouldn't be too much hassle!

    Lovely colour that. Mine originally was!

  9. #9
    Guest lewisw's Avatar
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    Ah okay, I have seen it up on a lift before and the underneath was spotless to be fair to it, it's not covered many miles in it's life

  10. #10
    Flamespitter bennyboy's Avatar
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    Ask zeldoz for his hidden rust photos of his before repair it will scare the shit out of you !

  11. #11
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    Underseal is one of the worst things you can do to these cars unless you know there's zero rust or moisture underneath. Best thing you can use (for the money) is waxoyl. Looks shiny, keeps everything lubricated and keeps the rust away.

  12. #12
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    The problem with the front jacking point is unless your running stock 4x4 ride height it's fairly inaccessible.

    When using the rear jacking point be careful to avoid the alloy diff cover. I never jack from the sill as hearing them crunch is like watching a friend get kicked in the nuts. Not suitable for flat jacks anyway.

    I use the red circles to jack, green for stands. The rear stands on the subframe it's self, take your time to place them properly.

    The front stands, where the lower arm meets the chassis, nice shape to take the stands. For jacking the front, under tray has a little hole bang on giving something to aim for, don't miss and jack the rad

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    ive seen some rusty radiator crossmembers in my time. my favourite front jacking points are the front tie down points either side of the radiator crossmember. those things are solid as a rock.

  14. #14
    Now with 400bhp....
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    I use the front tow eye or better still drive it on to some blocks and use the front subframe. At the back I use the diff.
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  15. #15
    Guest mcleansc's Avatar
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    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psftr4jvko.png

    I've just bought these to get some clearance to jack it off the front crossmember.

    I normally drive into 4,250 strategically placed pieces of wood and slide my low entry jack under the front crossmember and pump the jack through the wheel arch. Jacking my car normally takes longer than the work I'm doing. I drop it onto 2 axle stands at the tow eyes like said before.

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