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Thread: CrazySx s14a project.

  1. #81
    Guest jon200's Avatar
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    Normally the boomerang mount rots out before the rest of the sill. At least you can get to the inside to treat it now.


    FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits

  2. #82
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon200 View Post
    Normally the boomerang mount rots out before the rest of the sill. At least you can get to the inside to treat it now.


    FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits
    I guess I was lucky on this side then. I will still plate over it for good measure.

    Think I will scrub it inside and cake it in deox gel for a few days

    Any ideas on thickness of metal? 1.2mm ok?

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  3. #83
    Guest clive12155's Avatar
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    Would a normal sheet metal not be okay ? I think it's 0.8mm.


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  4. #84
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clive12155 View Post
    Would a normal sheet metal not be okay ? I think it's 0.8mm.


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    Not sure, but I want it to be strong! I bought some 1.2mm today. I measured the old stuff and it is at least 1mm. I couldn't get a proper measure with the calipers as the edge of the metal had frayed a little where the angle grinder went through.

    I think 0.8mm is for body work. This is structural so has to be be strong. Will probably be hard to work with though :s

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  5. #85
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Little update. I left the bits I wanted to treat in deox gel for over a week (unintentionally). Some of it had dried a little so I wet the wire brush before scrubbing it out.

    Results speak for themselves
    Before


    After



    Covered the whole lot in rust treatment similar to hydrate 80. Dont think i will get it any cleaner as its a real pain to get to the inside of the boomerang mount. Will give it a coat of electrox tomorrow. Then cut out some more metal and weld up time yay!

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  6. #86
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Oh yes.. a shot inside the rest of the sill. Looks good inside. Will shoot some dynax in there I think.


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  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    I found the cheapest was normal vinegar it worked quicker than deox gel with a lot less gunk to fly everywhere but you must but baking soda over it to deactivate the vinegar.
    How do you keep vinegar on the rust long enough?

    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Oh yes.. a shot inside the rest of the sill. Looks good inside. Will shoot some dynax in there I think.


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    You need to kill that rust along the bottom of the sill first.

    Rust once formed collects moisture and oxygen. It's darker brown as it is holding moisture. Slap something on top and even though it's sealed it's got enough O2 from that moisture to keep on going. Then it expands, breaks the seal and wicks water along under the sealant which prevents it drying out.

    Rust evil stuff begets more evil stuff.

  8. #88
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyshack View Post
    How do you keep vinegar on the rust long enough?


    You need to kill that rust along the bottom of the sill first.

    Rust once formed collects moisture and oxygen. It's darker brown as it is holding moisture. Slap something on top and even though it's sealed it's got enough O2 from that moisture to keep on going. Then it expands, breaks the seal and wicks water along under the sealant which prevents it drying out.

    Rust evil stuff begets more evil stuff.
    That prob looks worse than it is as it's wet. When I shot water down the rear it trickled down.

    You are right tho. I will open it up a but more and maybe shoot some rust convertor down there then some electrox like Pete did with the dynax Lance. Once all dry then dynax.

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  9. #89
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    quick question: How did others that cut out the rot, replace the plastic clip/retainers for the sideskirts to mount to?

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    quick question: How did others that cut out the rot, replace the plastic clip/retainers for the sideskirts to mount to?



    This is what I did last night. Not a good welder but learning.

  11. #91
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clive12155 View Post



    This is what I did last night. Not a good welder but learning.
    This is what i am thinking about doing now, weld it myself. I have my eye on a welder and a mask at the moment.

    How did you re-install the clips for the skirt?

    Also did you pull out the rear seat and pull away the carpet inside? or no need?

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    This is what i am thinking about doing now, weld it myself. I have my eye on a welder and a mask at the moment.

    How did you re-install the clips for the skirt?

    Also did you pull out the rear seat and pull away the carpet inside? or no need?
    No clips for the skirt just rivets. And yes you have to pull the carpet up or it will catch fire in no time as it gets really hot. I got away with not taking the seats out but it's easier if you do. I put some wet rags on top when welding to keep it cool.

  13. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by clive12155 View Post
    No clips for the skirt just rivets. And yes you have to pull the carpet up or it will catch fire in no time as it gets really hot. I got away with not taking the seats out but it's easier if you do. I put some wet rags on top when welding to keep it cool.
    Thanks for the info bud.

    I presume you have after market skirt then?

    I will be putting the stock ones back on, I suppose the end screw and the bolts underneath will hold them in place. I have had to do away with the plastic bits that the skirt pops into.

    As I thought with the carpet then. Guess I'd better get stripping

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  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Thanks for the info bud.

    I presume you have after market skirt then?

    I will be putting the stock ones back on, I suppose the end screw and the bolts underneath will hold them in place. I have had to do away with the plastic bits that the skirt pops into.

    As I thought with the carpet then. Guess I'd better get stripping

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    Yes I do have aftermarket skirts sorry forgot to mention.

  15. #95
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyshack View Post
    How do you keep vinegar on the rust long enough?


    You need to kill that rust along the bottom of the sill first.

    Rust once formed collects moisture and oxygen. It's darker brown as it is holding moisture. Slap something on top and even though it's sealed it's got enough O2 from that moisture to keep on going. Then it expands, breaks the seal and wicks water along under the sealant which prevents it drying out.

    Rust evil stuff begets more evil stuff.
    I had a crazy idea, how about if i seal the bottom of the sill and then pour some vinegar/bicarb mix in there and leave it over night? Good idea or bad?

  16. #96
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of it dry. The stuff closest to us is the remains of the rotten sh1t that I ground/cut out.


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  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Thanks for the info bud.

    I presume you have after market skirt then?

    I will be putting the stock ones back on, I suppose the end screw and the bolts underneath will hold them in place. I have had to do away with the plastic bits that the skirt pops into.

    As I thought with the carpet then. Guess I'd better get stripping

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
    This thread brings back memories from when I did my sill!
    I drilled holes in the new metal at the points where the OEM skirts clip in. I then bought new clips and installed them. A bit OTT, but that's the type of build I do!
    I also put a few extra holes here and there in the new metal (before I painted) as access points to spray in Bilt Hammer cavity wax. I rubber bunged these extra holes when I'd finished.

  18. #98
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    This thread brings back memories from when I did my sill!
    I drilled holes in the new metal at the points where the OEM skirts clip in. I then bought new clips and installed them. A bit OTT, but that's the type of build I do!
    I also put a few extra holes here and there in the new metal (before I painted) as access points to spray in Bilt Hammer cavity wax. I rubber bunged these extra holes when I'd finished.
    Hi Alec,

    Sounds like you did a bloody good job. Any details on the build anywhere?

    What clips did you use? the OEM ones are square and i can't begin to think how you would cut a square hole lol!

    I think i will be putting a few extra holes in to pump cavity wax in, did you leave holes in the outer sill too?

  19. #99
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    Sorry I've been meaning to check my car to see exactly what I did but kept forgetting!
    I have drilled extra holes in the new outer section of the sill I fabricated. The holes in the sill for mounting the pop clips I just made round for ease and I found some replacement clips on eBay - afraid I haven't got a link to what clips I used as it was so long ago.


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  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alec View Post
    Sorry I've been meaning to check my car to see exactly what I did but kept forgetting!
    I have drilled extra holes in the new outer section of the sill I fabricated. The holes in the sill for mounting the pop clips I just made round for ease and I found some replacement clips on eBay - afraid I haven't got a link to what clips I used as it was so long ago.


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    Hi Alec, no worries mate, just wanted to know if they were special clips. The fact ebay ones worked is good enough for me. Just couldn't imagine how I would make square holes to fit the originals lol!

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