Normally the boomerang mount rots out before the rest of the sill. At least you can get to the inside to treat it now.
FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits
Normally the boomerang mount rots out before the rest of the sill. At least you can get to the inside to treat it now.
FS: HKS SSQV recirc inserts, S14 eccentric rear arm lockout washer kits
Would a normal sheet metal not be okay ? I think it's 0.8mm.
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Not sure, but I want it to be strong! I bought some 1.2mm today. I measured the old stuff and it is at least 1mm. I couldn't get a proper measure with the calipers as the edge of the metal had frayed a little where the angle grinder went through.
I think 0.8mm is for body work. This is structural so has to be be strong. Will probably be hard to work with though :s
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Little update. I left the bits I wanted to treat in deox gel for over a week (unintentionally). Some of it had dried a little so I wet the wire brush before scrubbing it out.
Results speak for themselves
Before
After
Covered the whole lot in rust treatment similar to hydrate 80. Dont think i will get it any cleaner as its a real pain to get to the inside of the boomerang mount. Will give it a coat of electrox tomorrow. Then cut out some more metal and weld up time yay!
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Oh yes.. a shot inside the rest of the sill. Looks good inside. Will shoot some dynax in there I think.
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How do you keep vinegar on the rust long enough?
You need to kill that rust along the bottom of the sill first.
Rust once formed collects moisture and oxygen. It's darker brown as it is holding moisture. Slap something on top and even though it's sealed it's got enough O2 from that moisture to keep on going. Then it expands, breaks the seal and wicks water along under the sealant which prevents it drying out.
Rust evil stuff begets more evil stuff.
That prob looks worse than it is as it's wet. When I shot water down the rear it trickled down.
You are right tho. I will open it up a but more and maybe shoot some rust convertor down there then some electrox like Pete did with the dynax Lance. Once all dry then dynax.
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quick question: How did others that cut out the rot, replace the plastic clip/retainers for the sideskirts to mount to?
Thanks for the info bud.
I presume you have after market skirt then?
I will be putting the stock ones back on, I suppose the end screw and the bolts underneath will hold them in place. I have had to do away with the plastic bits that the skirt pops into.
As I thought with the carpet then. Guess I'd better get stripping
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Here is a pic of it dry. The stuff closest to us is the remains of the rotten sh1t that I ground/cut out.
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This thread brings back memories from when I did my sill!
I drilled holes in the new metal at the points where the OEM skirts clip in. I then bought new clips and installed them. A bit OTT, but that's the type of build I do!
I also put a few extra holes here and there in the new metal (before I painted) as access points to spray in Bilt Hammer cavity wax. I rubber bunged these extra holes when I'd finished.
Hi Alec,
Sounds like you did a bloody good job. Any details on the build anywhere?
What clips did you use? the OEM ones are square and i can't begin to think how you would cut a square hole lol!
I think i will be putting a few extra holes in to pump cavity wax in, did you leave holes in the outer sill too?
Sorry I've been meaning to check my car to see exactly what I did but kept forgetting!
I have drilled extra holes in the new outer section of the sill I fabricated. The holes in the sill for mounting the pop clips I just made round for ease and I found some replacement clips on eBay - afraid I haven't got a link to what clips I used as it was so long ago.
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