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Thread: CrazySx s14a project.

  1. #41
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    advice required, how much do i cut?? on the actual sill, is that the inner sill i can see rusting on the inside?

    With the boomerang mount, shall i cut all the metal thats pitted and the bit that has split?

  2. #42
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    I would wire brush all scabby bits until down to clean metal, treat with bilt hambers hydrate 80 but that's up to you, and then paint with bilt hambers electrox primer before over coating. Don't be suprised if you break through and create a hole on bad scabby bits, but as said you could be lucky and not have that happen cos it looks solid enough.
    what do you think now bud? how much needs welding? do i need to buy anything of you?

  3. #43
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    The problem is they rust from the inside out so your only looking at the tip of the iceberg. The MOT man will tap that with his small hammer so make sure its not all going to come apart at MOT time by tapping all of the crusty looking stuff with a small hammer.

    If your careful and the rest is solid you should be able to build up the area just using weld as its going to be tricky making such a small repair patch.

    If you cant weld yourself just get it all ready and get a mobile guy to come out and do it. Its a tricky repair laying on your back and even if you can weld flat bits on a bench this is completely different as you will blow big holes in it if your not careful.
    Last edited by paulsx; 09-11-2015 at 10:00.

  4. #44
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulsx View Post
    The problem is they rust from the inside out so your only looking at the tip of the iceberg. The MOT man will tap that with his small hammer so make sure its not all going to come apart at MOT time by tapping all of the crusty looking stuff with a small hammer.

    If your careful and the rest is solid you should be able to build up the area just using weld as its going to be tricky making such a small repair patch.

    If you cant weld yourself just get it all ready and get a mobile guy to come out and do it. Its a tricky repair laying on your back and even if you can weld flat bits on a bench this is completely different as you will blow big holes in it if your not careful.
    The stuff that is there now is pretty solid! I hit it hard with the knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder and it didn't get any bigger. I am thinking about cutting away the old stuff and getting the MOT man to weld it. I am just worried about what to cut.

    The boomerang bit. How man skins is it? Do I just cut it and then have 1.2mm plate welded? Or thicker?

    The sill, is the inner sill shot? So do I cut a big but out of the outer sill?

    I tried to look at spicey weasels images in his build thread but they have all disappeared

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  5. #45
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Im afraid to say what I think tbh. To do it properly will mean a fair amount of metal needing replacing I recon. If you dont want to go that far then plate over the overlapping as much as pos. Chriscookes looks a good job without go to deep into it.

  6. #46
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    The stuff that is there now is pretty solid! I hit it hard with the knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder and it didn't get any bigger. I am thinking about cutting away the old stuff and getting the MOT man to weld it. I am just worried about what to cut.

    The boomerang bit. How man skins is it? Do I just cut it and then have 1.2mm plate welded? Or thicker?

    The sill, is the inner sill shot? So do I cut a big but out of the outer sill?

    I tried to look at spicey weasels images in his build thread but they have all disappeared

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

    I still have all the pics on my pc at home so can pm you some if it would help. Just let me know what you are after.

  7. #47
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    I have some pictures in mine which shows the sill's side on opened up if that helps?!

    Wish i could help you with advice!

  8. #48
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    That bit is made up of several sections, it has parts of the floor, inner sill, quarter panel and outer sill. The boomerang mount is also a double section with captive nut.

    If it is really solid and I mean hammer solid I would just cut in a very small patch and dont cut out anymore than you need to. The repair piece should be 1.2mm thick or thicker.

    When most people repair that bit it is almost impossible to mimic what is there so dont bother. Just use thicker gauge steel for the inner repair.

  9. #49
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    Im afraid to say what I think tbh. To do it properly will mean a fair amount of metal needing replacing I recon. If you dont want to go that far then plate over the overlapping as much as pos. Chriscookes looks a good job without go to deep into it.
    Don't be afraid to say what you think. I respect your opinion. I want to do a proper job, or as proper as i can get it. I have had this car for nearly 11 years now, and i don't want to part from it any time soon It's just a matter of, do i spend the time and money now, or do it later and plan for it. I don't really have lots of money to throw at it right now, well not 2k anyway! At the same time, i want to do it properly once rather than be in the same position in a year or 2.

  10. #50
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    I still have all the pics on my pc at home so can pm you some if it would help. Just let me know what you are after.
    just wanted to see deconstruction of that bit of the sill so i can see what sits behind it, and also the boomerang mount.. what is under it, how thick it is supposed to be etc.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulsx View Post
    That bit is made up of several sections, it has parts of the floor, inner sill, quarter panel and outer sill. The boomerang mount is also a double section with captive nut.

    If it is really solid and I mean hammer solid I would just cut in a very small patch and dont cut out anymore than you need to. The repair piece should be 1.2mm thick or thicker.

    When most people repair that bit it is almost impossible to mimic what is there so dont bother. Just use thicker gauge steel for the inner repair.
    I am 100% that it is hammer solid. I would be deluded to tell you otherwise lol!

    I was thinking about cutting as below. With the sill i will have to go with a light cut and pull of the outer sill and see whats behind and treat it.



  12. #52
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    I'd extend the patch to the right as much as pos if it where me. I can do you some boomerang sections that I make if you decide to cut more out but you will only want them if the rot goes up higher.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    I'd extend the patch to the right as much as pos if it where me. I can do you some boomerang sections that I make if you decide to cut more out but you will only want them if the rot goes up higher.
    I made that line on the basis that the boomerang bolt was quite stiff in the hole, i had a bar on the racthet to get it out, and the fact that the metal hasn't moved tells me it must be solid. I will cut that much away and then shine a torch in there or get the borescope out and check

    I will post up my findings on here and defo have a boomerang mount if i need it. You said you have one in stock right?

  14. #54
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    I wouldn't cut the bolt hole out just put a hole in the new plate, line it up with the captive nut and weld on. It will add a load more strength than just putting the smaller patch on.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    I wouldn't cut the bolt hole out just put a hole in the new plate, line it up with the captive nut and weld on. It will add a load more strength than just putting the smaller patch on.
    Thanks for the wisdom bud, good idea! I will probably go for 1.5mm sheet there.

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  16. #56
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Sounds good.

  17. #57
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    So i began preparing the n/s sill at the boomerang mount, and was pleasantly surprised how much good metal was left.


    I also used a wire brush on a drill on the rust converter i had used on the scabs on the sills, and i was surprised at how strong the stuff is.


    I then covered everything in rust converter again and began prep on the drivers side :0






  18. #58
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    I would trim the outer sill off along both sides where the holes are to treat underneath as thats where the rust has started from.


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  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon200 View Post
    I would trim the outer sill off along both sides where the holes are to treat underneath as thats where the rust has started from.


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    Thanks Jon,

    For the big hole it should be pretty straight forward as the underneath surface still looks intact, however i am dreading the other hole, i will cut a square out of the top skin and see what it look like underneath. wish me luck!!

  20. #60
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    The second pic looks pretty bad underneath. Looks like laters of rust.


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