Plan is to get it up to MOT standard first (get the hole on the n/s treated/cut out/welded) and then concentrate on the rest. MOT is due on 26th Nov :s just need to now wait for it to stop raining
Plan is to get it up to MOT standard first (get the hole on the n/s treated/cut out/welded) and then concentrate on the rest. MOT is due on 26th Nov :s just need to now wait for it to stop raining
That doesn't look great. But, it's not all that bad.
They all go where the Y/Boomerang bracket is.
Your doesn't seem to go miles down the sill. Surely you'd get away with just plating the rear.. but it will come back. You really would want to cut it all out and start again. Atleast you know its dealt with for over a year..
Before
After
Wow good job on that, my problem for the moment is that i can't weld and i don't have a ramp. I don't want to get too deep into it, hence i am getting the internal frame coating stuff.
Next year however i will revisit it and give it some more love. The reason the rot is not too bad is because that car was garaged for about 4-5 years of my ownership and driven about 500 miles a year if that.
oh and i went to a place near me that does top notch restorations. They quoted 2k as a minimum figure, i nearly fainted! lol
I paid nearer 3k.
I cant weld either. The pictures above make my rust look not that bad. Take a look at my thread if you want to see how wrecked mine was.
It will atleast make you feel more relaxed over yours.
Maybe a quick plate until next year would suffice.. Ideally it needs completely cutting out!
Sadly things are always worse than they first appear in my experience.
Yep I think I am going to take the easy route this time as it's a need rather than a want to get through the MOT and the weather is as shite as can be.
Next year I should have my garage so will get chopping.
I also want to learn to weld. It doesn't look too hard doing mig welding. You just need to master the settings, technique and have a steady hand.
Wow! 3k!!! That's a lot! Mind you if I had it I would pay the 2k. But the mrs would go mental as we are supposed to be getting a rear extension next year. It's actually in my interest to get the extension done as it means the garden gets sorted and then I get my garage
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I can also report back on how all these products have held up
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That's a good start! No Hydrate 80 though?
The Eastwood chassis black, just make sure it's chip resistant if it dries rock hard. You don't want it to be brittle and chip off. I've never used it before though. I used POR15 chassis coat on mine, it's fairly rubbery so hopefully chip resistant.
Last edited by handsomedez; 06-11-2015 at 20:56.
They need to be stripped really firstly it would be hard to turn but id be nervous if would bend the mounting points.
you will find you have to strip alot out when doing rust repairs anyway due to fire risk or to damaging parts.
also get a jig like the one I used that has wheels
I have this stuff
so didn't bother with the hydrate 80. Plus there are better rust converters on the market like the Granville Stuff.
I was thinking about using the extreme black before putting stone chip in.
So.. sand/wire brush as much as poss.
Deox gel. Leave over night.
Check, maybe deox again if necessary
Then rust converter
Then electrox
Then extreme black
Then stone chip
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Question: should I put seam sealer in where the inner and outer sills are split and derusted
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Bump
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Ok so update time..
Boomerang removed
Started with this:
Boomerang looks alright. Might dip it while it's off.
Then gave the lot a wire brush on the drill. The brass type brush.
Didn't really do much damage so I got out the knotted steel wire brush on the angle grind and et voila!
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Then deox gel. Have to say this stuff is great! Wish I could have left it over night, but won't get to work on it again til next wknd now
Then wait..
And wash off
Then I was stuck as it was dark, wet and cold. Wouldn't be able to get another coat of deox gel on it. Wouldn't be able to etch prime. So the only option to get this stuff on it.
So let like this..
Will update once dry. I will need to rub it back before welding. Only a week to wait! !! Argh! !!!
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