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Thread: CrazySx s14a project.

  1. #21
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Plan is to get it up to MOT standard first (get the hole on the n/s treated/cut out/welded) and then concentrate on the rest. MOT is due on 26th Nov :s just need to now wait for it to stop raining

  2. #22
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    That doesn't look great. But, it's not all that bad.

    They all go where the Y/Boomerang bracket is.

    Your doesn't seem to go miles down the sill. Surely you'd get away with just plating the rear.. but it will come back. You really would want to cut it all out and start again. Atleast you know its dealt with for over a year..

    Before




    After

  3. #23
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeldoz View Post
    That doesn't look great. But, it's not all that bad.

    They all go where the Y/Boomerang bracket is.

    Your doesn't seem to go miles down the sill. Surely you'd get away with just plating the rear.. but it will come back. You really would want to cut it all out and start again. Atleast you know its dealt with for over a year..

    Before




    After
    Wow good job on that, my problem for the moment is that i can't weld and i don't have a ramp. I don't want to get too deep into it, hence i am getting the internal frame coating stuff.

    Next year however i will revisit it and give it some more love. The reason the rot is not too bad is because that car was garaged for about 4-5 years of my ownership and driven about 500 miles a year if that.

  4. #24
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    oh and i went to a place near me that does top notch restorations. They quoted 2k as a minimum figure, i nearly fainted! lol

  5. #25
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    oh and i went to a place near me that does top notch restorations. They quoted 2k as a minimum figure, i nearly fainted! lol
    I paid nearer 3k.

    I cant weld either. The pictures above make my rust look not that bad. Take a look at my thread if you want to see how wrecked mine was.

    It will atleast make you feel more relaxed over yours.

    Maybe a quick plate until next year would suffice.. Ideally it needs completely cutting out!

  6. #26
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Sadly things are always worse than they first appear in my experience.

  7. #27
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    Sadly things are always worse than they first appear in my experience.
    This is the man for your new sills too!

    Fitted like a glove!


  8. #28
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeldoz View Post
    I paid nearer 3k.

    I cant weld either. The pictures above make my rust look not that bad. Take a look at my thread if you want to see how wrecked mine was.

    It will atleast make you feel more relaxed over yours.

    Maybe a quick plate until next year would suffice.. Ideally it needs completely cutting out!
    Yep I think I am going to take the easy route this time as it's a need rather than a want to get through the MOT and the weather is as shite as can be.

    Next year I should have my garage so will get chopping.

    I also want to learn to weld. It doesn't look too hard doing mig welding. You just need to master the settings, technique and have a steady hand.

    Wow! 3k!!! That's a lot! Mind you if I had it I would pay the 2k. But the mrs would go mental as we are supposed to be getting a rear extension next year. It's actually in my interest to get the extension done as it means the garden gets sorted and then I get my garage

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  9. #29
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    I can also report back on how all these products have held up

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  10. #30
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Yep I think I am going to take the easy route this time as it's a need rather than a want to get through the MOT and the weather is as shite as can be.

    Next year I should have my garage so will get chopping.

    I also want to learn to weld. It doesn't look too hard doing mig welding. You just need to master the settings, technique and have a steady hand.

    Wow! 3k!!! That's a lot! Mind you if I had it I would pay the 2k. But the mrs would go mental as we are supposed to be getting a rear extension next year. It's actually in my interest to get the extension done as it means the garden gets sorted and then I get my garage

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    Yeah i know. It still makes me wince when i think about it. - Should've been scraped.

    Do extension ASAP! > Get garage ASAP!

    I would kill for a man cave.

  11. #31
    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    I can also report back on how all these products have held up

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    Strip it down stick it on a roll over jig even someone with no experience would quickly get the hang of it

    ive still got my roller jig if you want one that fits the s14

  12. #32
    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    Strip it down stick it on a roll over jig even someone with no experience would quickly get the hang of it

    ive still got my roller jig if you want one that fits the s14
    This!

    I WISH i done this with mine. Would've learnt something invaluable skill wise...and saved myself both my legs in costs.

  13. #33
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    Strip it down stick it on a roll over jig even someone with no experience would quickly get the hang of it

    ive still got my roller jig if you want one that fits the s14
    Can you use it with a fully built up road car? Or would it have to be stripped down to a shell?

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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    ok.. so sh1t is about to get real!!!


    Also to arrive imminently is:

    Bilt Hamber Electrox, Unique Zinc-Rich Steel Coating Protection Aerosol -400ml Aerosol
    Bilt Hamber Etchweld, High Performance Self Etching Primer Aerosol -500ml Aerosol
    Bilt Hamber Surfex HD -1 Litre Spray
    Bilt Hamber Deox Gel Rust Remover -1000ml bottle
    Valvoline TECTYL 190 Black - Overpaintable Stone Chipping Protection -500ml


    I also ordered this:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HE5k5zU31I

    and thinking about ordering the Eastwood extreme chassis black as it has 3 x the resin as normal paint and dries rock hard.

    Feedback welcome


    That's a good start! No Hydrate 80 though?

    The Eastwood chassis black, just make sure it's chip resistant if it dries rock hard. You don't want it to be brittle and chip off. I've never used it before though. I used POR15 chassis coat on mine, it's fairly rubbery so hopefully chip resistant.
    Last edited by handsomedez; 06-11-2015 at 21:56.

  15. #35
    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazySx View Post
    Can you use it with a fully built up road car? Or would it have to be stripped down to a shell?

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    They need to be stripped really firstly it would be hard to turn but id be nervous if would bend the mounting points.

    you will find you have to strip alot out when doing rust repairs anyway due to fire risk or to damaging parts.

    also get a jig like the one I used that has wheels

  16. #36
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by handsomedez View Post
    That's a good start! No Hydrate 80 though?

    The Eastwood chassis black, just make sure it's chip resistant if it dries rock hard. You don't want it to be brittle and chip off. I've never used it before though. I used POR15 chassis coat on mine, it's fairly rubbery so hopefully chip resistant.
    I have this stuff

    so didn't bother with the hydrate 80. Plus there are better rust converters on the market like the Granville Stuff.

    I was thinking about using the extreme black before putting stone chip in.

    So.. sand/wire brush as much as poss.
    Deox gel. Leave over night.
    Check, maybe deox again if necessary
    Then rust converter
    Then electrox
    Then extreme black
    Then stone chip

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  17. #37
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Question: should I put seam sealer in where the inner and outer sills are split and derusted

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  18. #38
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Bump

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  19. #39
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Ok so update time..
    Boomerang removed

    Started with this:



    Boomerang looks alright. Might dip it while it's off.


    Then gave the lot a wire brush on the drill. The brass type brush.



    Didn't really do much damage so I got out the knotted steel wire brush on the angle grind and et voila!






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  20. #40
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    Then deox gel. Have to say this stuff is great! Wish I could have left it over night, but won't get to work on it again til next wknd now




    Then wait..

    And wash off




    Then I was stuck as it was dark, wet and cold. Wouldn't be able to get another coat of deox gel on it. Wouldn't be able to etch prime. So the only option to get this stuff on it.


    So let like this..





    Will update once dry. I will need to rub it back before welding. Only a week to wait! !! Argh! !!!

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