i had a dw kit for the s13, it went straight to the caliper, infact i think its still on my 14, R33 calipers mind you
i had a dw kit for the s13, it went straight to the caliper, infact i think its still on my 14, R33 calipers mind you
Hi guys.. so a bit of an update.
Friday I got my new DV.
Have you guessed what it is yet?
Some more pics
It's actually a lovely bit of kit, very well made and works VERY well!
It's also handy that you can undo the top four Allen bolts and rotate the vac line!
Ok so with that done I thought I would re-fit the coil cover.
It was a bit dirty and I thought it would be a shame to fit a dirty cover with nice shiny new ss bolts
so I gave it a clean
Dirty
Clean
I actually started on the flip side but forgot to take pics. However here is a shot of it all clean with refreshed lettering
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
This got me thinking. Am I really gonna stick this on a dirty engine in a dirty bay??
So this happened
And ended with this..
Can't believe how well the block cleaned up and the ABS unit
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
So as can be seen the coil pack cover is back on. I used some nylon spacers and 25mm m5 hex stainless steel bolts for anyone wanting the details.
This gave me 5mm of space for ventilation and clearance of the coil packs
With this done I was a happy bunny.
Saturday morning I came to here:
And got this
I was delighted!!
But then I also got this
He only did one run and cancelled the second. Said the car was running super lean and not to boot it.
Said it could be the AFM or fuel pump
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
So I changed the afm and it made no real difference.
Then I thought about the lambda and that I had used a second hand one that could potentially be dodgy. So I desperately tried to find a new one and failed. So I ended up going to the local scrappy and got a 3 wire lambda from a scrapper and spliced it in.
Took the car for a spin and it drops into the 11s (AFR) on boost now. So I then ordered a brand new one from Horsham Dev. Also ordered a new walbro to be sure.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
By this time it was 8pm!! I still had to clay the whole car and polish it ready for japshow.
However the stereo was up the duff so had to sort that out. Due to some electrical gremlins that took me to nearly 10pm!!!
I was contemplating using the led site light I have and starting the wash. But I really couldn't see anything.
Got up at 6am and used the g3 clay mitt I have then this
Even managed to get some help
By 8.30 I had this
Left by 9 and got there for 1015
Shame I didn't meet any other members, but it really was a great day out!!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Last edited by CrazySx; 09-07-2017 at 23:34.
Two observations on the way there and back.
The AFR gauge is very unreliable. It reads 22.5 for long periods or sometimes E8 then springs back to life when it feels like it. It's an innovate mtx-l any ideas anyone?
The second was that I get steering vibration at anywhere between 50 and 70 and it's noticeable worse on bends. Thinking TREs or ARB bushes? Need to check
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I had a similar issue with my Innovate LC-2, seemed to be slightly laggy. I emailed Innovate and they said to recalibrate the sensor, once that was done everything has been fine.
Glad to hear things are moving on and the cars making decent power. Steering issues could be all sorts, easiest thing is to jack it up at the front and give the wheel a wobble in different directions. Left to right can show tie rods (at rack), tie rod ends. Steering rack bushes, lower ball joints and steering shaft rubber bush unless you've already got rid and replaced with an aluminium one. Wheel bearing, bad geo etc
Hey bud, thank you! I know the geometry is good and the wheels have been balanced just last week. You are right need to get it jacked up and check. However I am in the right mind to change it all. 17 year old bushes and ends are not going to be good Lol! Plus I got an advisory on split tre rubbers at MOT time so thinking to change them anyway.Originally Posted by shikari chaos
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
I was thinking about doing exactly that Lol! Watched a video on YouTube to remind myself just yesterday. Just hope the sensor comes out ok and is not too contaminated. It went in prob 5 plus years ago and has never been out. Mine is in the elbow just next to the lambda. Where is yours located?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Look at that water bead!!
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Mines in the downpipe before is goes under the car. From what I remember the manual says 12-18" from Turbo at 12-3 o'clock position. I made the right length stainless boss so it didn't stick in too far and put it there on the down pipe.
Hmmm.. I wonder if the position of mine is an issue. It's in the turbo elbow. I think we put it there on the basis that it's next to the narrow band. Surely if it's a good enough location for the stock lambda it's good enough for the wideband?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
They are more sensitive, which is maybe why they say this. It also mentions calibration intervals in the manual but I know this is usually forgotten about, I did myself until I had issues.
Page 4 & 5
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...X-L_Manual.pdf
2.3 Sensor Placement
Optimum bung placement will vary from application to application, but using
the guideline below will ensure the longest sensor life with the most accurate
readings. Using a bung is the preferred method for mounting the oxygen
sensor in all applications.
- Weld the bung at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port
outlet (after the collector), or 24 inches after the turbocharger if so
equipped. The bung should be welded before the X or H pipe if so
equipped.
- Using a clock as reference, mount the bung between the 9:00
o’clock and 3:00 o’clock position. Welding the bung in the lower
section of the exhaust pipe can result in sensor damage caused by
condensation making contact with the sensor’s internal heating
element.
- A 1” bung (provided in the kit) will best protect the sensor. When
fully threaded, the sensor’s tip will sit flush with the exhaust pipe, this
does not adversely effect the readings.
Wow.. makes mine sound wrong then. Will have to bung the bung and weld a new one in further downstream by the sounds of it.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Hi Guys,
Update, i took the Wideband sensor out and it looked reasonably clean (considering its been in there approx 8 years).
I gave it a quick quirt of brake cleaner and then i calibrated the Innovate MTX-L AFR and then put the sensor back in. To my disappointment, the gauge stayed on "HTR" indefinitely, so i got a bit peeved and switched it all off and left it alone. A few hours later i went for a drive, again, HTR for ages.. then all of a sudden it starts showing readings ??? and they didn't look right. Come off the throttle and they readings go to 22.5 and then E8???
Today i whipped out the wideband sensor again and soaked it in petrol (overnight), will give it a clean tomorrow, blow it dry with compressed air and see if it makes a difference.
Another 2 things i did:
Fuel pressure check. Not sure if its good or bad, please advise?? From what i have read it should be 3 Bar at idle??? so probably bad..
And a little video when i rev it:
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/596a69f5...715_174327.mp4
Last edited by CrazySx; 15-07-2017 at 19:16.
No they sit at 3 bar at 0 vacuum / boost. Mine sits around 2.6 bar at idle and comes to 3 bar just under 0 on the boost gauge and then rises 1:1 with boost pressure
So 1 bar of boost should see 4 bar of fuel pressure??
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
