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Thread: twin fan setup keeps draining my battery help

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    twin fan setup keeps draining my battery help

    right i have an s14a with an rb25det and i had no option but to run a after market twin fan setup, push type, at the front of the radiator due to lack of space between engine and rad.

    ive wired the fan onto a 12v switch thats wired to the ignition fuse. it rund off the switch with no problem but the bare wire thats connected to the switch get a little hot when on for a while.

    my problem is when the fans are running for half an hour or so and i switch the car off, if i try to start the car after the battery is flat, in order to keep the battery at a restartable level i have to switch the fans off and wait for 10 mins so the alternator can charge some juice into the battery.

    is there anyway i can fix this? maybe get a bigger batter or a bigger alternator, at the moment my battery is a small boshe item.

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    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fifi View Post
    right i have an s14a with an rb25det and i had no option but to run a after market twin fan setup, push type, at the front of the radiator due to lack of space between engine and rad.

    ive wired the fan onto a 12v switch thats wired to the ignition fuse. it rund off the switch with no problem but the bare wire thats connected to the switch get a little hot when on for a while.

    my problem is when the fans are running for half an hour or so and i switch the car off, if i try to start the car after the battery is flat, in order to keep the battery at a restartable level i have to switch the fans off and wait for 10 mins so the alternator can charge some juice into the battery.

    is there anyway i can fix this? maybe get a bigger batter or a bigger alternator, at the moment my battery is a small boshe item.
    I have an inkling i'll have the exact same problem. Subscribed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeldoz View Post
    I have an inkling i'll have the exact same problem. Subscribed.
    lol wise man, you will indeed

    ive been told by a member on skyline oc a thermo switch will be needed so the fans only kick in when needed at certain temperature and a relay to take the switching load. im currently looking into these things ill update this if i get any more info so you know aswell

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    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Why are you running the fans all the time younshouod just run a revo thermostwte controller or something similar so onpy kicks in when it goes above a set temp

    how old is the battery and is it a decent aac?

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    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fifi View Post
    lol wise man, you will indeed

    ive been told by a member on skyline oc a thermo switch will be needed so the fans only kick in when needed at certain temperature and a relay to take the switching load. im currently looking into these things ill update this if i get any more info so you know aswell
    Oh thats not how you've got them wired now?

    Yep thats it.

    Here's how i'll run mine;

    1x fan on a 30A relay with some thick cable... Relay will connect to an adjustable switch. 1x will be set at 95-100'c so if it starts to climb in temps she'll kick in.

    Then 2nd (on constantly low speed)

    will go through a 30A relay, off a 12v ignition source. OR if i can find a soruce that only runs when the engine is on. i'll tap into that.

    You cant directly run them from the battery as a long term solution your end up melting things...

    A quick google imamge search.. something like this;


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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    Why are you running the fans all the time younshouod just run a revo thermostwte controller or something similar so onpy kicks in when it goes above a set temp

    how old is the battery and is it a decent aac?
    the fans have been wired to a switch and is running constantly because im an idiot, i just figured out the errors of my way and will need to rewire it

    the battery is new and basic
    Last edited by fifi; 12-10-2015 at 14:38.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeldoz View Post
    Oh thats not how you've got them wired now?

    Yep thats it.

    Here's how i'll run mine;

    1x fan on a 30A relay with some thick cable... Relay will connect to an adjustable switch. 1x will be set at 95-100'c so if it starts to climb in temps she'll kick in.

    Then 2nd (on constantly low speed)

    will go through a 30A relay, off a 12v ignition source. OR if i can find a soruce that only runs when the engine is on. i'll tap into that.

    You cant directly run them from the battery as a long term solution your end up melting things...

    A quick google imamge search.. something like this;

    thats what ive been looking for thanks, i just need a temp switch and need to figure out a suitible place to fit it, i was thinking to get a water temp gauge sensor housing and re tape a new thread as i need a spare one for my after market gauge, and then run the switch of a relay, its 40amp relay thats needed

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    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fifi View Post
    thats what ive been looking for thanks, i just need a temp switch and need to figure out a suitible place to fit it, i was thinking to get a water temp gauge sensor housing and re tape a new thread as i need a spare one for my after market gauge, and then run the switch of a relay, its 40amp relay thats needed
    That will work! Theres a few different ways you can do it that one

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    You mention the wire gets hot what size wire are you using and what's the current draw of the fans

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    Check your earth. If it's draining the battery quickly that can be the sign of a bad earth.

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    My fans are behind the rad as they should be...its tight but it does fit. I also need to sort out my wiring as they are on constantly. Will be putting a revotec switch in over the winter.....along with the other list of things I need (want) to do

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    no sign of any fuses on this, do not forget to put a fuse if wiring direct to the battery like in the above diagram, unless you want to return to your pile of ash.
    If the wires getting hot it is far too small and will happily start melting/setting fire to plastic things. Where are you fuel lines in relation to this wire...

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    Guest Zeldoz's Avatar
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    Not my diagram but it would have two inline fuses when i do mine.

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    Just cus the wire is getting hot doesn't mean it's undersized it may have a bad crimp joint on it hence why I asked the question of wire sizes and current draw

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    Oh and as far as I'm aware you don't need the external diode paralleled up to the relay coil on automotive relays as they have them built in to stop the back emf

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    i need to remove my wiring and re-do it as i done it a total noob way (my fans are wired to a toggle switch, meaning both fans are on constantly)

    from what ive gathered ill be following the diagram uploaded by zeldoz and will be using two relays one for each fan and two 20a fuse for each positive feed to the battery.

    no im just trying to work out if the rb25det temperator sensor has a switch built in or if its just a temp sensor, if it is a switch then ill be hooking the relays onto it if not ill have to get one of them housing that go into the radiator top hose but ill be needing a housing that will take two sensors as ill be needing the second one for an aftermarket water temp gauge

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    thought id give this a bump as a bit more advice is needed.

    i got myself a revotec thermostat switch, ive installed it with the relay and as the diagram shown above, my problem is when the fans are running due to the temperature reaching the temp of the switch programmed for it to kick in, when i turn the car off the fans will still be running as the water is still hot as the power source is dircet from the battery.

    this will put me in a situation of my battery potentially dying on me causing a great deal of inconvinience if im out, so to fix this issue ive wired the power source to a switch instead of direct to the battery enabling me to turn it off when im done driving should the fans still be running, is this safe on the switch? it has fuses inline the circuit.

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    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Thats because you have wired it to the battery

    If you have copied the diagram above them its wrong.

    you need to wire pin 30 on the relay to a ignition 12v source so it will turn off once the key is turned off/removed.

    plenty of wires to tap into to in the engine bay(have a look in the wiring diagram) or if you get really desperate the cigarette lighter.
    Last edited by -ghost-; 10-01-2016 at 22:57.

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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    Thats because you have wired it to the battery

    If you have copied the diagram above them its wrong.

    you need to wire pin 30 on the relay to a ignition 12v source so it will turn off once the key is turned off/removed.
    this is what ive done im asking isit safe? the 12v source im using is the cigerette lighter wire and ive added a switch (unnessary i know, but i had an air craft switch and thought it would look cool lol)

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    but mainly im using the switch is due to it having a built in l.e.d light so i can keep an eye on the power source as if the fuse blows and the car over heats my thermostat switch will be damaged, there expensive to replace so the switch is ainly an indicator to show the power source is live and fuse has not blown

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