list of problems, rough idle with rich smell/car barely manages to start

[mike_je94]

Right no explanation, gonna cut to the chase, but simply another classic case of fiddling with a car too much, sigh

________________________________

ROUGH IDLE AND RICH SMELL:

last few months I have fitted to my s14

FMIC,
Apexi avcr (running at 8 psi)
HKS Actuator
Walbro 255(actually had about 2 years now)
Oil catch tank (vent to atmosphere, not recircing back into intake.)
Forge Recirc valve
Hard intake pipe.
Nismo engine mounts. - Don't see how these would affect it though
stock engine management/ecu, NO MAP
NGKBRK7 plugs or whatever they are, less than 1000 miles old
about 300 mile old oil

As a result, about every 10 or 20 seconds when car is warm, revs will occasionally drop, and there is a little bit of rich smelling.

before fitting all them mods car seemed fine.

However the car seems to drive and boost/pull fine, no misfires or anything, occasional little backfire

Could this maybe due to the standard map not working that great with the modifications I listed? Maybe it just needs a proper map with good fuelling and ignition set up? - I am booked in at H-Dev next month for Nistune custom mapping.

____________________

STRUGGLING TO START,

Car cranks, but really weakly for like 5 seconds when cold, about 3 when hot.

It's got a brand new Bosch S4 Battery which has a voltage normally of 14.5 when driving, about 12.2 when off.

Battery was relocated to boot months ago, all seems to be earthed properly with a decent battery cable and junction box.

Always started okay before the relocation.

Crappy alternator, started motor or coil packs, coked up plugs as a result of above problem?

[auz200sx]

Right no explanation, gonna cut to the chase, but simply another classic case of fiddling with a car too much, sigh

________________________________

ROUGH IDLE AND RICH SMELL:

last few months I have fitted to my s14

FMIC,
Apexi avcr (running at 8 psi)
HKS Actuator
Walbro 255(actually had about 2 years now)
Oil catch tank (vent to atmosphere, not recircing back into intake.)
Forge Recirc valve
Hard intake pipe.
Nismo engine mounts. - Don't see how these would affect it though
stock engine management/ecu, NO MAP
NGKBRK7 plugs or whatever they are, less than 1000 miles old
about 300 mile old oil

As a result, about every 10 or 20 seconds when car is warm, revs will occasionally drop, and there is a little bit of rich smelling.

before fitting all them mods car seemed fine.

However the car seems to drive and boost/pull fine, no misfires or anything, occasional little backfire

Could this maybe due to the standard map not working that great with the modifications I listed? Maybe it just needs a proper map with good fuelling and ignition set up? - I am booked in at H-Dev next month for Nistune custom mapping.

____________________

STRUGGLING TO START,

Car cranks, but really weakly for like 5 seconds when cold, about 3 when hot.

It's got a brand new Bosch S4 Battery which has a voltage normally of 14.5 when driving, about 12.2 when off.

Battery was relocated to boot months ago, all seems to be earthed properly with a decent battery cable and junction box.

Always started okay before the relocation.

Crappy alternator, started motor or coil packs, coked up plugs as a result of above problem?

Few things spring to mind
Boost leak from fitting FMIC
Not mapped for supporting stage 1 mods
Bad earth contact on chassis and battery terminals
AAC valve dirty. The valve on the the back of the maniifold with the purple plug
MAF dirty/failing.

[Hugh Janus]

Had exactly the same on mine a few years ago.

do you have an SAFC?

if so you can choose which functions are displayed, choose "AIR Flow "(can't remember exact name) you'll see this figure drops at exactly the same time it starts to run rough, Shane and I eventually worked it out to be the Lambda

disconnecting the lambda sorted it out instantly then replaced with a new one

[mike_je94]

Had exactly the same on mine a few years ago.

do you have an SAFC?

if so you can choose which functions are displayed, choose "AIR Flow "(can't remember exact name) you'll see this figure drops at exactly the same time it starts to run rough, Shane and I eventually worked it out to be the Lambda

disconnecting the lambda sorted it out instantly then replaced with a new one

No mate not fitted the safc 2 yet need to at some point

I've got a list of things I wanna investigate but maybe should investigate the lambda

[Hugh Janus]

just disconnect it you should see an instant change drive it for a day or so, if it still does it, you've discounted the Lambda

[Davus200]

Few things spring to mind
Boost leak from fitting FMIC
Not mapped for supporting stage 1 mods
Bad earth contact on chassis and battery terminals
AAC valve dirty. The valve on the the back of the maniifold with the purple plug
MAF dirty/failing.

This

Sounds like you need it mapped (which is on your to do).

Next I'd say dirty maf or boost leak as these are the cause of 99% running problems and is easy/ free to sort

[ChunkyTits]

Mine always struggled to start with the battery in the boot. Got fed up with it so I moved the small micra style battery back into the engine bay and it's spot on now.

[mike_je94]

just disconnect it you should see an instant change drive it for a day or so, if it still does it, you've discounted the Lambda

Thanks mate. I'll give that a go

[mike_je94]

This

Sounds like you need it mapped (which is on your to do).

Next I'd say dirty maf or boost leak as these are the cause of 99% running problems and is easy/ free to sort

Yeah in desperate want and need of map now lol.

Thanks mate I'll have a double look round and stuff

[mike_je94]

Mine always struggled to start with the battery in the boot. Got fed up with it so I moved the small micra style battery back into the engine bay and it's spot on now.

really? Well glad I'm not the only one then. Well that does give some hope. I have heard stories of the micra battery being half decent

[Hugh Janus]

micro battery gave me no end of issues..not to mention the Micra battery is lower than the required cranking amp for the car anyway

the bad starting is probably the starter motor

[mike_je94]

micro battery gave me no end of issues..not to mention the Micra battery is lower than the required cranking amp for the car anyway

the bad starting is probably the starter motor

It's odd. It always started pretty well before relocation. The last alternator test about 2 years ago/6000 miles ago said it was okay. I can't imagine it would be coil packs.

even with the relocation about a month or started well a few times but only in the last week or two it has gone really sluggish.

maybe the earth is a bit bad somewhere. A few things have gotta look at. I did have to do a join in my battery cable though. Maybe that ain't a good idea. Perhaps I should try a full one piece of cable to the boot?

Maybe should check the starter motor anyway. May aswell narrow stuff out

[sideways14a]

Boost leak

[mike_je94]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Top bunch.

If i can get to the bottom of any of the issues ill update the thread. Just for help if anyone else happens to have any similar issues