S13 EBC Install Help

[milsom93]

Hi guys,

Fitted a Greddy Profec Electronic Boost controller to my CA last week. First of all I miss took what type of actuator I had and when I took it out to try set it up today, I found no matter what I set the boost % at it wouldn't budge. Now I stopped in at Crisp Tuning whilst out to see what I had done wrong and within two minutes he spotted my rookie error set it up like this....

Fantastic!! it boost like no tomorrow now and is savage, but even with everything set to its base settings of 0 it seems its just boosting to max with the wastegate shut.I cant get to 6K RPM with out hitting 17psi of boost and then my boost limiter cutting in. Any ideas?

Port 1 is to the actuator
port 2 is into the air filter hose
Port 3 to the turbo housing

Also we disconnected this and all the pipes too it

[Bahnstormer]

That's interesting! I fitted my Greddy today too, but the manual said to leave port 3 (the middle one) open to air. I have port 2 to actuator and port one to the nipple on the throttle body. The port on the controller box is tee'd in to the vacuum pipe on the FPR. Saying that, mine's an SR though, so could be different anyway.

[pointz]

Yes as bahnstormer said leave one port open!

NO - Goes to pressure source (turbo housing, i/c piping)
COM- Goes to actuator

Leave other port open.

Assuming that's the hot start solenoid you have removed? So now you have a small vac line from Rear of plenum to fpr (fuel pressure regulator)

And the nipple on elephant's trunk (that you have the other vac line from solenoid going to) needs to be blocked.

[pointz]

This is the guide i followed for setting up profec b spec2.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...t=profec%20evo


I got rid in the end as i couldn't get on with it personally.

[Bahnstormer]

Just noticed, it look like you've used metal washers to hold the actuator bracket to the body, might be worth swapping those for rubber washers to reduce vibration at the solenoid

[milsom93]

That's interesting! I fitted my Greddy today too, but the manual said to leave port 3 (the middle one) open to air. I have port 2 to actuator and port one to the nipple on the throttle body. The port on the controller box is tee'd in to the vacuum pipe on the FPR. Saying that, mine's an SR though, so could be different anyway.

I did this to start with bud but when I went to set it up changing the settings didn't make any difference. This is why I went to see Chris who quickly put it like the 2jz supra he had in. I'll try take the port 2 pipe off I think when I get chance

Yes as bahnstormer said leave one port open!

NO - Goes to pressure source (turbo housing, i/c piping)
COM- Goes to actuator

Leave other port open.

Assuming that's the hot start solenoid you have removed? So now you have a small vac line from Rear of plenum to fpr (fuel pressure regulator)

And the nipple on elephant's trunk (that you have the other vac line from solenoid going to) needs to be blocked.

This is the guide i followed for setting up profec b spec2.
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...t=profec%20evo


I got rid in the end as i couldn't get on with it personally.

Ace mate I'll use that guide to set it up. Makes it easier than the guide, and 100x times easier than the Japanese guide that came with it unfortunately this solenoid has numbered ports but from what solenoids look like its 1 and 3 and 2 should be open. I'll dig the guide out again but it boosts more like it should now just too much. Yeah I've blocked a few hoses off temporarily for now until I get it all set up when I'll do a complete tidy up of lines

Just noticed, it look like you've used metal washers to hold the actuator bracket to the body, might be worth swapping those for rubber washers to reduce vibration at the solenoid

Correct mate, I couldn't find the bloody things when I installed it originally so I've got two on the way mate as I've read its a no no to keep it mounted like that. Thank you for the heads up

I'll have a look through the week and let you guys know how I get on

[Bahnstormer]

Here you go mate, snipped this from the English guide I found

[milsom93]

Here you go mate, snipped this from the English guide I found

Spot on mate, I did download this when connecting it up and set it up like it said but I was having no difference when changing the settings. But now I've disconnected the hot start solenoid do you think it may control better now? I think one day next week I'm going to switch the hoses about and see which one works.

Turbo smart who uses the same Mac solenoids suggest to use 2 and 3, then 1 as a vent to air or into air filter like I have it.

[milsom93]

Sorted it guys , Thanks for your help.

I moved the actuator back to 1 and put the blue vent into 3. I'm not sure why it didn't work before. Unsure if the vacuum hosing to the hot start solenoid was leaking or something, but it was working this morning after swapping it over.

[R3K1355]

Bin the blue pipe off it's incorrect.

1 to actuator, 2 to turbo housing, 3 leave open.

Thats for a Greddy Profec B Spec 2.

[milsom93]

Bin the blue pipe off it's incorrect.

1 to actuator, 2 to turbo housing, 3 leave open.

Thats for a Greddy Profec B Spec 2.

Excellent, will do! I have ordered an exhaust cover thing for it recently so I'll bin the blue off and plug the hole in the air filter. On the way home I notice I have a bit of a misfire at 4K RPM when it's set to around 13-15 psi of boost. Could this be the plugs? I replaced them with standard ones (BCPR6E 11)

[pointz]

Excellent, will do! I have ordered an exhaust cover thing for it recently so I'll bin the blue off and plug the hole in the air filter. On the way home I notice I have a bit of a misfire at 4K RPM when it's set to around 13-15 psi of boost. Could this be the plugs? I replaced them with standard ones (BCPR6E 11)

Assuming you are at stage 2? You need bcpr7es plugs gapped to 0.8/0.9mm

[milsom93]

Assuming you are at stage 2? You need bcpr7es plugs gapped to 0.8/0.9mm

No mate, just stage 1

[pointz]

Yea bcpr6es should be OK then! What gap have they got?

[milsom93]

Yea bcpr6es should be OK then! What gap have they got?

Excellent bud, not a clue about the gap. Just whatever they come as from NGK

[skyshack]

Also we disconnected this and all the pipes too it

Did you put a vac hose directly between the elbow stub on the rear of the plenum and the FPR?

[milsom93]

Did you put a vac hose directly between the elbow stub on the rear of the plenum and the FPR?

No mate I just blocked the hoses that come out of the HSS

[m17ch]

Where do you get the boost reading then?

Observe truthfully the schemes few posts back. Read the text supporting the images.
Will save you some money.

Cheers

[milsom93]

Where do you get the boost reading then?

Observe truthfully the schemes few posts back. Read the text supporting the images.
Will save you some money.

Cheers

Thank you mate I'll have a read shortly, i did make a quick job of disconnecting the hot start solenoid so I may have missed something. I don't know the layout of vac hoses but I take the reading from the nipple on the back of the inlet but it's not the same one as the FPR as I was told to never mess with that signal

[m17ch]

Well, the vac. hoses go from the HSS behind the head, then to the FPR, another one goes from HSS on top of the head (the small vac. line around the crank case ventilation hoses) to the back of the inlet manifold.
By blocking the vac. hoses basically the FPR is not working properly, since it reads atmosphere pressure all the time.

Cut short hose and connect the back of the manifold to the FPR. Then split it and add the Y plug(white thing that adds another hole in between the two ends) provided with the EBC kit. There you plug the boost reading. Or ultimately you plug the boost reading to the charcoal canister vacuum hose.

Cheers, did EBC installation recently.