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Thread: The final hurrah – S13, 25K miles, 1 owner from new, full refurb

  1. #1
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    The final hurrah – S13, 25K miles, 1 owner from new, full refurb

    This thread has only been made possible with the help of some SXOC members. I don’t know who they are but would like to say massive thanks.
    I have owned an S13 for over 12 years now so it’s fair to say I like em. I have looked long and hard to find the best totally stock example I could and have bought this 25,000 Miles 1 owner S13. The previous owner didn’t use it much and due to illness, it was garaged for the last 10 years. The plan is to bring it up to scratch, which will be a similar job to my S14 refurb. These pics are from the ad.

















    Mika (my Son) collected the car, which was a 450 miles trip on a flatbed. I didn’t want to risk running it until the oil and belts have been changed. With such low mileage, everything is tight. The car has been garaged all its life which means the rubber seals and the interior is intact. UV perishes seals and eventually discolours seats. The top of the rear seat is prone to this due to the angle of the hatch glass.
    It’s mechanically bang on but as you would expect, the bodywork needs some attention in the usual places.








    The mods will be slight and everything will be kept to return it to stock if needed.

    Apexi induction kit
    Mongoose exhaust
    Uprated suspension –KYB adjustable shocks and Eibach lowered springs
    Kouki rear lights
    Bigger wheels and rubber
    The car has the original radio cassette that still works. It’s a piece of crap though so it will be replaced with something a bit retro looking but with USB connectivity.

    This restoration will be carried out with the utmost care and attention to detail using on the very best materials. It needs some repairs to the sills so this will be spot welded along the sill lip to replicate the factory finish. The car has been badly washed and is full of swirl marks so it needs full paintwork correction. I have a half-built Mini Cooper in the garage so all the work will be carried out on the drive.











    Pete
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

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    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Hi Pete

    I cannot think of a better place for a car like this to end up and I'm so very pleased it's in your care.

    The very best with the restoration mate

    Arry

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    Looking forward to seeing this updated. You'll never spot weld on a drive as well as a factory weld so check you can do what you need to do for strength first mate. Would be my only 2p. Do you actually use the 14 these days?

  4. #4
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    Happy to see the thread. Look forward to the updates
    South west Events and local meet info. See here


    My car on THRLL: http://thrll.com/car/1998-nissan-200sx-12410
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    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piman2k View Post
    Looking forward to seeing this updated. You'll never spot weld on a drive as well as a factory weld so check you can do what you need to do for strength first mate. Would be my only 2p. Do you actually use the 14 these days?
    Why do you say you wont be able to spot weld on the drive way? Just curious as to why you think that? As a fabricator for over 16 years I would say it would be easier to spot weld on the drive than mig or tig.


    Looking forward to the updates Pete. Another epic s body restoration from an expert. And an amazing car to start with.

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    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    Really glad to see you got this petrol and it didn't go to the next wanna be .dk. look forwards to seeing the progress looks like it's been well kept.

    Quote Originally Posted by piman2k View Post
    Looking forward to seeing this updated. You'll never spot weld on a drive as well as a factory weld so check you can do what you need to do for strength first mate. Would be my only 2p. Do you actually use the 14 these days?
    Surely a spotwelder is the best thing to use on a drive/outdoors it sure don't suffer with the pproblems of a mig or tig and is a lot neater if your going full resto

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    Didn't say you couldn't do it, just I dont think you'll achieve an OEM quality weld outside on a drive. Correct me if I'm wrong, im at the beginning of the car design build spectrum in my life, no the rectification.

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    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piman2k View Post
    Didn't say you couldn't do it, just I dont think you'll achieve an OEM quality weld outside on a drive. Correct me if I'm wrong, im at the beginning of the car design build spectrum in my life, no the rectification.
    Sorry my wording wasn't the best, as you you rightly say you didn't say it wasnt possible.

    I would say it's the easiest way to get a tidy, good quality weld that won't need cleaning up at all. It would defo look more oem and should be just as strong as the factory welds. That's my opinion anyway.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 07-06-2015 at 16:42.

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    I'll echo the same sentiments as arry - glad you've got it. if you're in need of another pair of hands, tools, spares etc - let me know
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Guest nismo's Avatar
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    Will keep a close eye on this build petrol. Your previous builds have inspired me to do my own restorations.

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    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Thanks for the kind words guys I will give you a shout if I get stuck Alan, which is more than likely
    I have built most of this Mini shell from new panels - roof included and they have all been spot welded on. It's no problem







    Drained the diff oil. Not much in the way of deposits



    4 nuts and 6 plastic clips hold on the rear spoiler. The plastic clips are a right pain to remove, as once there in, they won’t come out. If you pull the spoiler off, it will bend both the boot lid and the spoiler. So I drove a wedge into the spoiler and cut through the plastic clips with a hacksaw.



    Hatch is rust free



    It's these metal plates that hold the plastic clips in that rot





    I'm going to get as much of the plates out as I can, then bond the spoiler back on.

    Bumper off



    Jacked up



    Stands under the chassis legs and jack under the diff



    Subby lowered down on the jack



    Then wheeled out



    Also took the fuel tank out leaving more or less a bare shell





    Next job is to sort the rust out on the back of the shell

    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

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    Guest -ghost-'s Avatar
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    That's cleaner than the s15 is :O

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    Guest Dave270r's Avatar
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    To echo previous sentiments, I'm so glad this car has gone to a good home. Will be watching

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    Guest fritzkrackers's Avatar
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    just goes to show that even when garaged and with sub 26k under its belt that rust still develops.

    what a find though! rude to ask how much it cost you?

    i'd wish you good luck, but you dont really need it eh?

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    I just know this is going to be awesome, the engine bay shot up top is like a nissan brochure picture
    and I no doubt will be sparklingly cleaner, post this on zilvia as well if not already
    I was reading big tones thread, he's back on zilvia (not seen the chap on here though)
    and your cars and work standard came up on there a few times

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    BTW, after undoing the 10mm nuts that hold the spoiler on, it can be removed by putting a pair of pliers inside the bootlid and squeezing the clips. I did it this way when I removed mine for inspection about 7-8 years ago and I was able to re-use the clips.

    I keep meaning to get an old spoiler and work out how to replace the internals but I never seem to spot one that is for sale or being given away I daren't start cutting around my one in case I make a mistake and spoil it (sorry for the pun)

  17. #17
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by -ghost- View Post
    That's cleaner than the s15 is :O
    I doubt it, the rear arches are a real mess

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave270r View Post
    To echo previous sentiments, I'm so glad this car has gone to a good home. Will be watching
    It will be looked after

    Quote Originally Posted by fritzkrackers View Post
    just goes to show that even when garaged and with sub 26k under its belt that rust still develops.

    what a find though! rude to ask how much it cost you?

    i'd wish you good luck, but you dont really need it eh?
    It depends on the garage TBH, some are really damp. Another issue is road salt left on the car, it attracts moisture and accelerates the rust.
    I'd rather not say how much but it cost me £230 to get it home The cost of the refurb will be about £2K..... and a gazillion hours of work.

    Quote Originally Posted by ANDY black s13 View Post
    I just know this is going to be awesome, the engine bay shot up top is like a nissan brochure picture
    and I no doubt will be sparklingly cleaner, post this on zilvia as well if not already
    I was reading big tones thread, he's back on zilvia (not seen the chap on here though)
    and your cars and work standard came up on there a few times
    Thanks, will do my best. Not spoken to Tone in a long time

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Subscribed to learn

    BTW, after undoing the 10mm nuts that hold the spoiler on, it can be removed by putting a pair of pliers inside the bootlid and squeezing the clips. I did it this way when I removed mine for inspection about 7-8 years ago and I was able to re-use the clips.

    I keep meaning to get an old spoiler and work out how to replace the internals but I never seem to spot one that is for sale or being given away I daren't start cutting around my one in case I make a mistake and spoil it (sorry for the pun)
    Bit of an epic fail I made of removing the spoiler then I'm still thinking about the best plan of attack to stop the plates rusting.

    With the back end of the shell stripped, next up is splitting all of the seams as they can hide rust. I did this on the Mini and tried every kind of tool but found this cut down scraper to be the best.



    The rust in this wheel arch seam run up higher than it looked. It's only by removing the sealant that you get the true picture



    Heat helps soften the sealants. A heat gun is fastest but you run the risk of bubbling the paint on the other side. A hairdrier is slower but safer



    Seam along the chassis leg split



    It's rusty more ot less the whole length



    The sill needs cutting out and replacing

    Pete


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  18. #18
    Now with 400bhp....
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    Top work, can already tell this will be a quality job.
    South west Events and local meet info. See here


    My car on THRLL: http://thrll.com/car/1998-nissan-200sx-12410
    Chris Cooke Photograpy: https://www.facebook.com/ChrisCookePhotography
    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

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    You don't hang around do you, subframe already off. I think I might have to steal that idea of prizing out the seams to look for rust.

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    Just seen the last pic of the sill. My sill wasn't as bad externally as that but once I started digging, the 3 sheet sections that form the seam were all frillier than a tart's knickers. The outer sill, as I'm sure you know, doesn't actually reach as far under the car as the seam but stops short. There are a few photos on another thread somewhere. I'll see if I can find them.

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