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Thread: The final hurrah – S13, 25K miles, 1 owner from new, full refurb

  1. #21
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dastardly View Post
    You don't hang around do you, subframe already off. I think I might have to steal that idea of prizing out the seams to look for rust.
    Subframe off is the easy bit really. The nuts on the prop can be a bit of a pain as you can only use an open ended spanner and they are often FT

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Just seen the last pic of the sill. My sill wasn't as bad externally as that but once I started digging, the 3 sheet sections that form the seam were all frillier than a tart's knickers. The outer sill, as I'm sure you know, doesn't actually reach as far under the car as the seam but stops short. There are a few photos on another thread somewhere. I'll see if I can find them.
    Thanks Jonny.

    When I did the last one I posted this up.......

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Not surprised the sills rot at the rear. There’s 3 skins. Can’t see how you could get any wax injection in there. This is the outer sill removed and you can see the strengthening for the jacking point. Look how close the outer sill is

    Pic up the inside of the sill. Drain tube for sunroof well

    This lot is not a very good design I am just going to cut the lot out and start again.




    Minor update. This has taken me ages but not done much sheet metal fabrication before. I could have stripped the rear suspension off by now

    Shotblasted



    Cardboard template for inner sill/jacking support.


    Sprayed with weld through primer - check out the "stopping rust coming back" thread on here Another pic of the template



    Trial fit. I have used 3mm sheet for this






    Oh dear..... I wish I could weld Good job fecked up.....At least it's strong though. Good penetration on the welds Notice the holes drilled in the hope I can get some waxoyl to the outer sills.




    Welded to the strong brackets on the inside of the sill.



    Not much to show for 2 day's work really


    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I then welded a repair section to the sill....



    Having re manufactured the stiffener that fits inside of the sill, I drilled some holes to get some box section wax inside as there appears to be 3 skins.
    Expect the welding to be a bit better this time
    Pete


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  2. #22
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Great to see this thread up here mate! look forward to seeing it transform

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  3. #23
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    Great stuff! Will look forward to watching this

  4. #24
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Thanks. Scraping underseal and sealants off from around the seam areas



    Bit messy Using white spirit and plastic scrapers





    Mika is on a mission on this build

    Pete


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  5. #25
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Started stripping the subby. One of my biggest fears is the state of the disk back plates as they tend to corrode pretty quick. I'm guessing they are no longer available from Nissan.

    The hub has to come off first which is held in with these 4 bolts. Best bet is to partially loosen them then using a drift, use the bolt head to drive the hub out of the knuckle as they are a tight fit



    Masked the hub up to stop dirt getting into the bearings



    Then squeezed some tube into the gap here



    Also cleaned up the driveshaft boots with white spirit

    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  6. #26
    Member CrazySx's Avatar
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    Is white spirit kind to rubber and plastic?

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

    CrazySX Cartoonised!

  7. #27
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I just gave the boots a quick wipe over and it soon evaporated. I wouldn't like to soak rubber in it though as it could lead to cracking long term. Think I have some tar remover somewhere, might try that on the other one. I have never used white spirit on plastic so dunno.

    Edit: Think I cleaned the boots up on the S14 with pledge
    Pete


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  8. #28
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I'm using this degreaser



    To get rid of any oil




    Before they go in the Deox C tank. The parts need to be grease free to allow the Deox to work



    I havent stripped any remaining paint off this lot as I'm going to blast them prior to paint

    Stripped a rear caliper



    These really are in mint condition and still had the original pads and shims in



    Piston is

    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

  9. #29
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Bloody hell the piston looks like new.

  10. #30
    Now with 400bhp....
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    What's the plan with this one then? Is it going to be another time capsule or will it be used?
    South west Events and local meet info. See here


    My car on THRLL: http://thrll.com/car/1998-nissan-200sx-12410
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    1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue

  11. #31
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    Bloody hell the piston looks like new.
    That's what I thought

    Quote Originally Posted by Chriscooke View Post
    What's the plan with this one then? Is it going to be another time capsule or will it be used?
    It will be used

    Blasted the caliper



    It's non original already





    Mini boys are gonna love this Engine is going to be S13 red



    Big valves and ported FTW

    Pete


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  12. #32
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    Autoglym Rubber and Vinyl Cleaner is the thing to use on rubber boots and gaiters

    It'll shift anything but the most stubborn tar/paint.

    A quick wipe over with WD40 then wash the WD40 off with car shampoo is a good way to remove tar on rubber.

  13. #33
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Autoglym Rubber and Vinyl Cleaner is the thing to use on rubber boots and gaiters

    It'll shift anything but the most stubborn tar/paint.

    A quick wipe over with WD40 then wash the WD40 off with car shampoo is a good way to remove tar on rubber.
    Legend Thanks

    Rust in the rear wheel arch seams



    These were filled with seam sealer and I had to scrape it out



    Deox gel applied firstly with a syringe



    Then forced right in with a brush to fully penetrate





    Covered in cling film to prevent evaporation



    Done both wheel arch areas



    Needs leaving 48 hours now
    Pete


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  14. #34
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Took the gel out and decided to give it another dose as there were still traces of rust. The cold weather isn't helping as it reduces the effectiveness of the Deox.
    Hopefully these seams will be sorted this weekend. I'm also using Deox gel on the drive shafts as these can't be immersed in Deox C



    Pete


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  15. #35
    Guest ianlea73's Avatar
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    Beautifully clean car,what a find.
    Don't know if you'd be interested but I have these,came off my import PS13 & look brand new.Have been diamond cut & just need a mild polish.





  16. #36
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Thanks ianlea73. I did see these advertised but I have a set (6) of pretty good condition wheels



    I have 4 with the original Potenza RE88 tyres This one is the spare in the old S13



    This one has never been on



    This bolt head had rounded



    This tool got it out though. Mucho impressed with it



    Weather permitting, I'm hoping to get the Deox out of the seams and have a big shotblasting run tomorrow
    Pete


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  17. #37
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    Those rounded bolt removers are the best. Liking this S13 a lot

  18. #38
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Good progress. What type of media do you use when your blasting?

  19. #39
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I'm using fine glass bead



    I dry store it in a dustbin



    Seam after blasting



    Then forced Electrox in with the spray gun



    Brush painted un-thinned Electrox in to fill the seam



    Closing the seam. The Electrox drips out at this stage



    Finished



    Pete


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  20. #40
    Member sx rider's Avatar
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    You guys are making very quick work of this! I'm doing a bit of work on my car at the moment, and I have to say the motivation is down to you and the super job you did on your s14a

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