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Thread: Chappys S13

  1. #61
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    I know you will mate. Just keep doing what your doing and you will get there in the end

  2. #62
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    I just wish I could get hams on atm. Last weekend helping my mom move house, again this weekend too. Next weekend the mrs volunteered me to work on my sisters car and she also wants me to detail hers. Maybe the week after ill get the engine out. Maybe. If im lucky.

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  3. #63
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    So we got some more stuff done on Saturday. Found plenty more rust unfortunately. Looks like tubbed arches up front may be in order. We will see. Need to take a hammer to the car. But where the wmic is, i think i could streams on it and fall through the car haha already it would get what's left of my wmic out!
    Anyways heres a few pics

    At the start


    After the start


    Half way there


    All but gone!


    And gone!


    After that ripped off the gay auto stuff, bolted it to an engine stand and then proceeded to ruin the carpet dragging it through my house.

    TIP
    WD40 removes oil from carpet. Fact. Also the only reason I'm still alive.

    Next up, strip the engine, clean everything replaced shells, piston rings and head gasket, then do timing belt and water pump. And strip the rest of the engine bay, inside the car off loom etc and go crazy with a wire drill thingy finding either holes or clean metal.


    Last but not least, standard engine removal selfie! But not your typical engine bay shot!
    Although sam did try to become one with the engine..


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  4. #64
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    Hahaa epic mate, so glad to see it coming along again. Takes me back to when I had to remove my engine with a tractor xD

  5. #65
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    A tractor? That's an interesting tool! Lol i just "borrowed" the crane from work

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  6. #66
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    Hahaa yep a tractor with a bale lifting fork hahaa. Wish I took a pic of it xD my car past its mot today too, so happy I can finally enjoy it after 15 months of ownership. So what ever you do don't give up

  7. #67
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    Im searching for a welder atm. I have no experience in metal at all so i have no real idea what I'm looking for lol

    I've been told to get a gas/no gas one, that can plug into a normal plug socket. Ideally clarke or sealey. I wanted aclarke pro90 but apparently i might need something a bit more gutsy but i have no idea!

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  8. #68
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    I have no idea either what the difference between them is my dad just has a basic one for little jobs but couldn't handle full length sills it woukd take forever. Spice weasel on here makes some nice sill panels up if yours are shot. Only need minor changes for them to be perfect

  9. #69
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    Yeah i have a complete outer drivers sill from him i just need to ask him to make me all the other sills haha

    Theyre different amps not that that makes a difference to me! I need a welder god to teach me the ways!

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  10. #70
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    Chappy where in the uk are you? I use a clarke gas/no gas mig 130 welder and it is plenty enough for the job! More so than i am lol!
    There are plenty of tutorials on youtube and enough people here that will be happy to give pointers. Practice makes perfect or so they say.

  11. #71
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    I live in Coventry which is where the car is. But being in the army i spend Monday through friday in camp near cardiff. Out around xmas though so hopefully when i actually live at home I'll get more done!

    I've spent a lot of time watching youtube but i think i actually need some hands on practice stocking stuff together! Does the 130 have a normal mains plug?

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  12. #72
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    Clarke pro90 is what I use.. does the job to be honest, just don't weld anything too thick and you'll be fine!

  13. #73
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    If you can run to it, the Clarke's 151TE is a good machine that runs off a 13A supply. I've only ever tripped out my house fuse board once and that was welding a big thick piece of metal with the dials cranked up.

    When you are costing it, don't forget to budget for a decent mask (about £50) and gloves.

    Personally, I wouldn't bother with a gas/no gas. No gas welding almost always makes a horrible looking job that takes ages to clean up. OK if you are just frankenstein welding a drift slag together but if you want to paint over it....

  14. #74
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    Thats why i want one that can use gas too. Things under the car like chassis rails etc gas it not so important but i want gas for the bulk of it. Just having the choice would be nice. The only reason i want the no gas option is if I'm almost done and run out of gas and i can't get more for some reason

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    With the weather we've been having lately, and my lack of a garage or anything to protect the car from the elements and pedestrians from arc eye, I have spoke to a local mechanic who can do the welding for me. He charges £30 per hour which I didnt think was too bad.. And he reckons hes got 6 full days of work.

    Drivers sill, inside and out
    Drivers chassis rail
    Subframe mount
    rear arch
    rear quarter panel
    boot floor
    the pass side floor has been pushed up where its been incorrectly jacked pefore which has startet to crack the inner sill, and will probably crack the rest when its pushed back flat, so pass side inner sill, both front strut bits under the welded plate (he didnt think they looked bad but I want them checked regardless) and the front cross member...

    He was confused as my drivers side is near completely rotten but the pass side is strong like bull

    He quoted me about £1800, thats if I supply the sills and a cross member, drop the fuel tank remove the last bits of interior and remove the rear subframe. He said I can trailer it to his work unit, and use his ramp and tools to remove the subframe, and put it back on there when done to be trailered home again.
    He also said hes happy to do it in chunks as £1800 is a lot of money in one hit, said about doing it in 3 chunks of 2 days... Seemed to think that £600 is much easier to hand off willy nilly lol...

    Hes the only local guy to me so I dont know if £1800 is cheap or expensive for the work required compared to the rest of the midlands. But hes only down the road at the moment... We do intend on moving in the next 6 months so may move to somewhere with a garage and cheaper welders... But atm I am saving up for this to happen!

    Annoyingly enough, I keep seeing people selling S13 shells atm with little/no rot for a lot less than £1800. Worst one was £1000 and needed 1 new sill the rest was fine... So many temptations to reshell... :/

  16. #76
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    Look at it this way, if you decide to fix it then you won't have to worry about the bodywork for a while. Where as if you reshell it then who knows what might happen a little while down the line.

    Take this from someone who seen the aftermath of filler that weighed more then the metal that was removed from my sills and a baked bean can from the rear arch

  17. #77
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    30 quid an hour is a pretty good rate. 60 hrs labour to fix it means either the whole car is fcukered or he doesn't know what he's doing or he's taking you for a ride. You decide....

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  18. #78
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    I got both rear quarter, behind the petrol tank and a front turret done for 300 quid

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  19. #79
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    Where in the country are you? There is a good guy near me that is very well priced he just done mathew8717's rear arches (cut out and raised for fenders)
    Subframe mount points, sills and part of the floorpan for quite a bit under 500 i believe and fitted overfenders!

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointz View Post
    Where in the country are you? There is a good guy near me that is very well priced he just done mathew8717's rear arches (cut out and raised for fenders)
    Subframe mount points, sills and part of the floorpan for quite a bit under 500 i believe and fitted overfenders!
    Im in coventry but for a price like that id hire a big dirty V8 range rover and trailer tow it there and back with it and still have loads of money left over lol

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