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Thread: New car time - Golf R32 Mk5 advice?

  1. #601
    Guest Asht_200's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    Prolapsed disc - burst and hooked my sciatic nerve into it. By the time I got apart and put back together again it'd taken my ankle reflexes out entirely.
    Burst? That sounds really nasty.

    So you are now part Terminator now (Taken apart and put back together) how did you do that?


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  2. #602
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Just got unlucky.

    Yeah, took a piece of my spine out, separated and cleaned the nerve and put me back together. Not a great success, though.

  3. #603
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Today was about putting the car back on the road to full recovery - took a run to the Indy garage that I've been using a few years for servicing etc; the ones that didn't fix it properly and left me in teh sheet , to have a chat about fixing all the little issues that have arisen as a result of getting locked out.

    The main things are:
    1) Still got glass shards in the door - I have no compressed air in the garage, gonna need some to blow it out of crevices as I've tried getting it all out with mini-hoover attachments but no joy
    2) Once all cleaned up, reseal the weather membrane on inside of door and refit door panel
    3) Rear brakes - handbrake got a bit seized and then released and is now pretty ineffective; need to get the shoes apart and have a look at what's gone on there
    4) Service Annoying since it had done all of 40 miles on the oil that's in it
    5) New indicator stalk to be fitted

    To be fair to them, they were very apologetic and have agreed to do the work required and 'come to an arrangement' on the bill. Given that I've shelled out £100 for a new battery, £140 for a new window and have lost the use of a car for near a year, I'm hoping they'll swallow a lot of the cost of the works above. We'll see - they were making all the right noises.

    That moment when you realise you've done 82 miles in a day which is more than you did all last year



    Still, next month will see it return to health and to active duty. Got a lot to make up for in 2020

  4. #604
    Guest sideways14a's Avatar
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    To be honest i would have set fire to it by now.

  5. #605
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    I have a compressor mate. Bring it to mine or I can chuck the compressor in the car next time I'm heading to you.

  6. #606
    Can't tell the difference cleanhands's Avatar
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    You may have already seen this Arry. Very intersting, should while away a couple of hours.

    https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...&t=1601182&i=0

  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanhands View Post
    You may have already seen this Arry. Very intersting, should while away a couple of hours.

    https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...&t=1601182&i=0
    Have seen that yeah. Fundamentally the drivetrain is not a bad one at all. Every engine has its Achilles Heel so to speak. The problem with the 996 is that when the engine goes pop it's basically a write off financially but if you plan on keeping the car and you have a bit of a slush fund then so what? I'm never selling mine - ever.

    Just picking up on a few bits from this thread:
    Still, next month will see it return to health and to active duty. Got a lot to make up for in 2020
    My timing eh

    I'm lucky in that I managed something like 500 miles in it I think before we went on lockdown.

  8. #608
    Can't tell the difference cleanhands's Avatar
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    Same, it's my last car, barring mishaps. It goes pop, it gets rebuilt.

    I just went over 125k a couple of weeks ago, 3k since I got it last June. Mine had the EPS IMS upgrade about 800 miles before I bought it, but the more I read it probably wasn't needed. It's a mid 99 C2 so probably had the dual row.

    The lights are about S13 level, they really are shocking.

  9. #609
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleanhands View Post
    Same, it's my last car, barring mishaps. It goes pop, it gets rebuilt.

    I just went over 125k a couple of weeks ago, 3k since I got it last June. Mine had the EPS IMS upgrade about 800 miles before I bought it, but the more I read it probably wasn't needed. It's a mid 99 C2 so probably had the dual row.

    The lights are about S13 level, they really are shocking.
    I went out in mine last night and it seems I've done more like 800 miles in it this year so far so I'm a bit more pleased. I wasn't sure what you meant about the lights TBH I've always found them alright but now having had the CTR out in the dark and getting into the Porsche it feels like someone's put 40w candles in

    Still, it's almost like Porsche knew the exact size of luggage compartment required for a good ol' Pandemic Shop




    Might have been a bit naughty. Saw a copper waiting up in a layby and pulled out as I went past but a little lazily. I put my foot into it to get through the lights onto a lights controlled roundabout - somehow made the next set too and then went off and round the next roundabout back to the same roundabout and ended up behind the same copper He then stopped to question a group of people walking down the path together and I just pulled casually around him and went about my day

  10. #610
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Got myself super busy today giving the old girl a good clean - she'd been properly neglected sat in the garage covered in dust. Couple of weeks ago we gave the garage a good going over and today was the turn of the car.

    Twas filthy so it was




    First off - gotta let the snow fall and dwell on it a bit



    I went off at its arse



    Then somebody handed it a towel




    One of the things that's been bugging me the most is the UV damage yellowing of the headlights. Decided to set about that today. Bought a bottle of Plastx and some wool drill wheels and some masking tape.







    Then the other side





    Then sealed them for UV with some Chemical Brothers Hybrid Liquid Wax - supposed to be really good stuff.

    [/url]

    And boom - gleamy



    Then it was time for shampoo



    Getting there




    And then a bit of clay mitt action - with some anti bacterial cleaner to stop the Covid (It was Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay lube)




    Back down to bare paint - there's a few little scratches and bits I'd like to get machined out at some point but it still looks good:



    Time to build back up with SRP






    And then a decision had to be made. Blue Velvet or Purple Haze?




    Opted for the Purple Haze and




    Reflections of stuff in the garage:




    Still got glass and wheels to do properly. Finish it off tomorrow I guess, and then leave it sat in the garage again innit.

  11. #611
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    AG do a special version of SRP for dark paints because the white SRP will show in chips etc.

    Its called Ultra Deep Shine or UDS.

    I use it on the Jag etc. and I can confirm its better than the SRP on dark paint

    Good result though and thanks for the yellow headlamp tip.

  12. #612
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    https://www.autoglym.com/products/bo...tra-deep-shine

    Never seen that before. I'll put it on the shopping list for next year - just opened another bottle of SRP that I've had for ~3 years - in fact I bought it when we were up at Helmingham together

    If you want to borrow the wool wheels mate you're more than welcome.

  13. #613
    Guest Asht_200's Avatar
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    Can I suggest use wet and dry


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  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asht_200 View Post
    Can I suggest use wet and dry
    You can. The Meguiars headlamp restoration kit comes with a hand sander pad, with a 1000 grit and 3000 grit sheet - 1000 first in up down direction, 3000 finish side to side, then use the Plastx to buff out the fine scratches left behind. But TBH, I thought that was going to be overkill and the proof is in the pudding, I was proved right. Don't think you need to get that aggressive; the heat from friction of the wool pad being worked by the drill is enough to bring it out.

  15. #615
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Little maintenance task today - since the car sits in the garage most of the time, especially at the moment, it was getting a bit of a faff to take the battery cover off to connect up the Optimate to keep the battery good. Solved that with an Optimate tail. Already had one on one bike, but thought i'd buy one for all vehicles so that I can just interchange with less faff.

    Fitted nicely under the bonnet, easy to connect up and leave alone now.




    Didn't go out and get any nice pics of the car since I'd cleaned it but did have to move it out of the way so I could get the CTR into the garage. Looks nice sat there like that:




    However, whilst the paint looks shiny it also looks a bit... I dunno, hologrammed?



    Think I'm gonna get someone to give it a professional paint correction at some point and then have a rethink on some of my kit.

  16. #616
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    Looks like it needs a fine polish to remove the holograms which are probably from a previous attempt at someone using a rotary polisher.
    I personally dont like Autoglym products as they are full of fillers temporarily hide stuff thats really easy to remove permenantly with a enthusiast budget DA polisher and some filler free polish.

    With that colour, I would do:-
    DA Polisher with medium hardness pad and Menzerna 2500 Medium Cut (Yellow)
    DA Polisher with soft pad and Menzerna 3500 Super Finish (Green)
    Poorboys Black Hole applied with a DA polisher and soft foam pad
    Soft 99 Fusso Coat Dark
    For maintenance after that, I'd personally use Gyeon Q2M Bathe Plus Shampoo followed by Gyeon Q2M Wet Coat as a great extra bit of protection that covers any hard to reach areas with a thin ceramic layer.

    DAS-6 v2 DA Polishers are a good enthusiasts tool and you can find them as part of a kit including the Menzerna and the polishing pads. Everything else is easy to find on detailing websites and won't break the bank either.

    If you need any tutorials about the best way to do stuff then I would use "Ammo NYC" or "Car Cleaning Guru" for reference as they have covered pretty much everything you need to know.
    It might seem a alot of work but you should only need to do the bulk of this every few years or once you start to notice any fine scratches

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike41288 View Post
    Looks like it needs a fine polish to remove the holograms which are probably from a previous attempt at someone using a rotary polisher.
    I personally dont like Autoglym products as they are full of fillers temporarily hide stuff thats really easy to remove permenantly with a enthusiast budget DA polisher and some filler free polish.

    With that colour, I would do:-
    DA Polisher with medium hardness pad and Menzerna 2500 Medium Cut (Yellow)
    DA Polisher with soft pad and Menzerna 3500 Super Finish (Green)
    Poorboys Black Hole applied with a DA polisher and soft foam pad
    Soft 99 Fusso Coat Dark
    For maintenance after that, I'd personally use Gyeon Q2M Bathe Plus Shampoo followed by Gyeon Q2M Wet Coat as a great extra bit of protection that covers any hard to reach areas with a thin ceramic layer.

    DAS-6 v2 DA Polishers are a good enthusiasts tool and you can find them as part of a kit including the Menzerna and the polishing pads. Everything else is easy to find on detailing websites and won't break the bank either.

    If you need any tutorials about the best way to do stuff then I would use "Ammo NYC" or "Car Cleaning Guru" for reference as they have covered pretty much everything you need to know.
    It might seem a alot of work but you should only need to do the bulk of this every few years or once you start to notice any fine scratches
    I was just going to say all that. It needs a proper polish


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  18. #618
    Guest arry's Avatar
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    Booked it in with someone that comes highly recommended to me by a friend who's just had his R32 GTR (a very special one at that) sorted by this chap. Goes in next week. Let's see how we get on.

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike41288 View Post
    Looks like it needs a fine polish to remove the holograms which are probably from a previous attempt at someone using a rotary polisher.
    I personally dont like Autoglym products as they are full of fillers temporarily hide stuff thats really easy to remove permenantly with a enthusiast budget DA polisher and some filler free polish.

    With that colour, I would do:-
    DA Polisher with medium hardness pad and Menzerna 2500 Medium Cut (Yellow)
    DA Polisher with soft pad and Menzerna 3500 Super Finish (Green)
    Poorboys Black Hole applied with a DA polisher and soft foam pad
    Soft 99 Fusso Coat Dark
    For maintenance after that, I'd personally use Gyeon Q2M Bathe Plus Shampoo followed by Gyeon Q2M Wet Coat as a great extra bit of protection that covers any hard to reach areas with a thin ceramic layer.

    DAS-6 v2 DA Polishers are a good enthusiasts tool and you can find them as part of a kit including the Menzerna and the polishing pads. Everything else is easy to find on detailing websites and won't break the bank either.

    If you need any tutorials about the best way to do stuff then I would use "Ammo NYC" or "Car Cleaning Guru" for reference as they have covered pretty much everything you need to know.
    It might seem a alot of work but you should only need to do the bulk of this every few years or once you start to notice any fine scratches
    Now I have time.

    I watch Larry’s Ammo videos, you learn a lot.

    I currently use a Meguiars DA polisher and Meguiars Compound if it needs it and Meguiars Polish. Kevin Brown (Buff Daddy) gives a lot of tips

    When I first got my Z34 I went over it with isopropyl alcohol to remove any polish wax etc

    My clean and polish regimen.

    Rinse the car
    Spray TFR (Traffic Film Remover) and let it sit for 5 minutes
    Rinse the Car
    Autofinesse Avalanche Snow Foam, let sit for 20-30 minutes depending on temperature
    Rinse the car
    3 bucket method with Ammo Brute and Plum for the wheels, Ammo foam for the paintwork. And use microfibre towels for washing with brushes for the wheels
    Rinse the car
    Dry with Ammo hydrate
    If the car needs claying, rarely these days. I clay before the last rinse (if it is my Mum’s 4x4 I use a clay pad on the DA)

    Then Ammo Skin and collinite Carnauba wax to finish it.

    It is easier on white as white doesn’t show up holograms or swirl marks, darker colours do as it’s the clear. Oat that gets microscopic scratches and reflects white light

    If you hand “wax / seal” it . Do it in straight lines and not myagi wax on wax off technique.

    I was also sceptical about using hydrate when drying a car... but it does work

    I have 3” 5” and 6” pads to work with


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  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    Booked it in with someone that comes highly recommended to me by a friend who's just had his R32 GTR (a very special one at that) sorted by this chap. Goes in next week. Let's see how we get on.
    Oh well I think that's ****ing well solved it








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