Ok, I naively assumed I could do a straight swap out of my kyb's for coilovers (in the rain). But it is not even close. What else do I need?
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Ok, I naively assumed I could do a straight swap out of my kyb's for coilovers (in the rain). But it is not even close. What else do I need?
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You need to jack the hub up to align it with the shock mounting on the coilover.
Jack the arm up and/or lower the coilover bottom mount.
That bottom section should rotate. Keep screwing it until it is at your desired ride height.
I haven't tried jacking the arm But it didn't seem like it wanted to go up much more. I'll try lowering the coilover mount and jacking next time.
You need both front wheels off the ground with the car supported on stands, otherwise you're working against the anti roll bar and will struggle to jack the hub high enough.
This. Set the coilies up roughly by hand before trying to fit.Originally Posted by Actual_Ben_Taylor
Have you read this ?
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...ide&highlight=
Upper bolt holes look like they have been drilled out a fair bit bigger than the lower 12mm hole
Apex gen 2's have the upper hole slotted (originally) for a bit of camber adjust
It was on stands and wheels off the ground but I will reread the post you stuck up on coily fitting before I reattempt. Cheers all.
Drilling the holes out is usually done if they've been fitted to 5-stud hubs off a 14 as they have 14mm spindle holes in the hubs.
oh yes I know about that as that's how mine is,as in 13 coil-overs/brackets drilled to 14mm on 14 uprights
but his are still 12mm lower hole and noticeably bigger top hole
I was heading towards it may need an insert/some chunky/thick washers or drill the upper hole in the 13 upright to 14mm and use a s14 bolt
with possibly still some washers or an insert sleeve? as the hole looks pretty big too me in the pictures
The chap who had them before had massive camber so that could be it. Where would I get an insert such as you mention Andy?
remove both shocks before attempting to fit the new ones. the ARB will be working against the different ride heights
Just put a jack under the hub and lift it up then
Not sure were from other than a local engineers/possibly a nut and bolt hardware stockist near to you
by insert I mean a washer close to the bracket thickness,but no thicker than the bracket so the bracket is clamped tightly
,and it's out side diameter size depends how big the hole is in the bracket
and if your using the 13 bolts at 12mm (12mm hole in washer/insert) or the s14/14a bolt at 14mm washer will need a 14mm hole
to use a s14 bolt in the top hole you would need drill the upright to 14mm though
If you don't go with the insert idea you would need 4 large thick washers to spread the load and stop the bolt head and nut sinking into the hole,
but that is a bit of a bodge way of doing it, tbh it was probably previously done that way by Mr I need more camberz
Ah that will be the problem. Ta
I get what you are saying. Would it be worth trying to weld a washer in the oversized hole do you think?
Yep That's another way to do it as well,grind it all flat on both inner and outer sides and it would be good
the washers on the outside of the bracket (sort of bodgy idea I suggested) may leave not much bolt thread left
so the welding washers inside the enlarged holes idea would be best
Cool, thanks for the tip!
I couldn't see the picture at work.
You've got the lower assembly wound up tight against the locking collars which are wound up against the springs and you have about 6 inches of shock poking out of the bottom of the lower assembly.
To give you some idea, I had only one inch of shock screwed into lower assembly (that's screwed in NOT below the bottom but screwed in from the top) on mine and it lowered it by 5mm. The way you have it it will lower it by about 200mm
If you attach it like that, the wheels won't touch the feckin' floor. lol.
Wind the lower assembly down the strut thread until you have the end of the strut level with the bottom of the lower assembly and go up or down from there.
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