Expected oil temp/pressure

[JC SX]

I got me a set of gauges wired up in my 14a, and have observed my oil temps over some different conditions

On first start up my oil pressure is around 6 bar and once the cars warm the pressure sits around 3-4 at idle and 6 under revs and boost, I have seen around 6.5-7 at peak under motorway triple digit speeds

My oil temp slowly rises and sits around 100.c when warm, on a hot blast it will rise to 105.c.

The other day I had a high speed run for 20 mins of fun and was around the top of the clock for a good portion of the time, my oil temp rose to 120.c and then when I came to idle at a slip road junction the oil pressure went down way low to 1.8-2 bar I'm guessing as the oil was very hot and thin?

This all seem normal and expected?

I'm running 412hp gtx2876, 740cc's, uprated cams, top mount external gate etc.

So far not bothered with water temp gauge as need to cut it into a pipe and haven't had time


JC SX

[T926_S14A]

What oil do you run?

[bahis]

That idle pressure is very high. Most likely your oil pressure regulator is stuck. Usually it's between 1-2bar at idle when warm depending on the oil.
And the temps are very high too. You should get an oil cooler. Mine never goes over 100C.

[scotch_kris]

Oil temp is spot on

What oil you running as that will make big difference on warm idle oil pressure. 6 bar on cold idle is the norm and between 6 & 7 when giving it a tickle

With it dropping to 1.8/2bar I wouldn't worry until it drops below 1bar that's when you got issues.

[jackm]

With 10w40 and been driving it for a good length of time, my oil is about 85 and 24 psi so about 1.5bar I'm idle. This is with the sensors at the end of a oil filter relocation line (40 inch) so I'm expecting a drop in pressure and temperature slightly.

[JC SX]

Oh I'm running fuchs titan race 10/50w with k&n filter

I was debating a bigger baffled Tomei sump over running an oil cooler as I'm not keen on the extra junk in the bay and more points to have leaks.
I also run the standard nissan radiator so expect water to be getting hot with all the bhp increases.

Modifying the cooling for reliability is the reason I got the gauges so at least I can monitor it.


JC SX

[bahis]

100-105C is fine, but I wouldn't want it getting to 120C just to be safe. Where is your oil temp sensor located? Temps might be a lot higher in some spots...

[JC SX]

I put a sandwhich plate inbetween block and filter, using defi super din gauges


JC SX

[scotch_kris]

120 degrees is nothing some oils don't start breaking down until a lot higher such as thicker fully synth oils.

A good rad and maybe even a cool running thermo will not only keep your coolant cool that will help reduce oil temps if your worried about them.

With fusch Titan 5w40 - my cold idle was 6bar warm idle 2 bar

With Fusch Titan 10w50 - my cold idle 7bar and warm idle around 3bar give it absolute death and drops down to about 1.5bar leave to cool for 10-15mins it picks back up

[daveyboydave]

I get similar temps and presdures to you, up to 120deg on a track day - which for most oils is fine. I have a baffled sump and no cooler, racing rad, same oil, same measurement place.

I would uprate your rad before considering an oil cooler, I was given this advice and I don't have any issues on trackdays now.

[daveyboydave]

Ps changing the thermo will make no difference, once up to temperature it is fully open anyway.

[scotch_kris]

I noticed a big change with fitting nismo cool running thermo. Normal town driving sits around quarter way, motorway about 2 thirds. And on drift days it no longer creeps up

[Mark]

Idle pressure at temp seems high but thats maybe the oil, using a 5w40 you would see around 1.5bar.

Temperature is fine, you want it around 100C to offer the most protection and any decent oil will still be offering that protection at 140C, anyone saying otherwise doesnt understand modern oils

I would change the rad first as the improved cooling will also knock a few degrees off the oil temp as well

[BLAKTOOTH]

I echo what's already been said. I'd only fit an oil cooler if you're going to be visiting the race track regularly. I cover my cooler on the road as otherwise, under normal driving, the oil doesn't get hot enough. Baffled/winged oil pan's good for piece of mind on track but I'm not sure it's entirely necessary for a road car.

[Slamz]

I agree, you don't need an oil cooler with those temps or on a road car. If you fit one you risk over-cooling the oil which can cause issues in itself! As Mark said, modern oils can take very high temperatures and still work fine.

[bahis]

I agree, you don't need an oil cooler with those temps or on a road car. If you fit one you risk over-cooling the oil which can cause issues in itself! As Mark said, modern oils can take very high temperatures and still work fine.

That's what a thermostatic sandwich plate is for...

And if the oil is 120C at the filter it can be a lot higher around the turbo for example...

[Slamz]

Thermostatic sandwich plates still let oil through when 'shut', you can still over-cool the oil on the road, especially in winter.

[Mark]

That's what a thermostatic sandwich plate is for...

And if the oil is 120C at the filter it can be a lot higher around the turbo for example...

Its always going to be hotter at the turbo but the oil is going through there in a split second not sitting there boiling. This is why its important to cool the turbo down before shutting off.

[zeppelin101]

Its always going to be hotter at the turbo but the oil is going through there in a split second not sitting there boiling. This is why its important to cool the turbo down before shutting off.

Except it has coolant flowing through it as well so the bearing temps are far lower than they would be were it oil cooled only.

It's not been necessary for turbo longevity to "cool the turbo" for over a decade.

[Mark]

As soon as you switch off though the coolant stops flowing and you get heat soak from the manifold and exhaust housing. I would still recommend it on a modified car at least.