S14a as a Track Car?

[fullmetalgasket]

Munkul. You need brakes.

Why? I've been running standard S14 brakes on my 180 for the last 8 years and abuse the absolute hell out of it on track - including sub 9 minute laps of the Ring. The only 2 times I've ever experienced brake fade have been when I forgot to change the fluid for 2 years running and it got contaminated ( ) and at Anglesea when I was caught behind a group of MX5's that were permanently on and off of their brakes all lap and didn't make it overly easy to get past. Driven properly the standard brake setup (with decent pads and fluid) is all you really need for trackdays.
I'm only going to start looking for bigger brakes if I ever get the cash together for my long hoped for upgrade to about 350Bhp.

Additionally my S14a had 300Bhp by the time I sold it and was still on Stock Nissan disks, calipers & pads with no issues....

Sensible upgrades for a nice track/fast road car would be S-Tunes and a better Radiator IMO. ARB's would dial out the body roll if it bothers you but be carefull of coilovers, I found most of the cheaper stuff too stiff to be much use on the average country road and ruin the comfort of the car if you wanted to use it for a long trip somewhere.
If you start upping the power do it right and don't scrimp or it'll get expensive fast

While I agree there are better car's for track use if you specifically want a 200 then just do it
Thinking about it the worst thing about getting a 200 around the track is keepping it quiet if you've started tuning it

[piman2k]

There's nothing I can say to that other than I'm probably quite a bit faster than you on track and into corners because I wouldn't be without my k sports.

[def]

K sports are awesome FACT.

The 200sx standard isn't a bad car for a standard car around a track. With the right mods it can be a great track car. 280bhp is good for 4.9 to sixty so you dont need mega powers either!

[AHR_S14a]

K sports are awesome FACT.

The 200sx standard isn't a bad car for a standard car around a track. With the right mods it can be a great track car. 280bhp is good for 4.9 to sixty so you dont need mega powers either!

That's a very quick 0-60 time for just 280bhp. A E46 M3 has 344bhp and that does 60 in 4.9 seconds. Maybe I didn't realise how light the 200sx actually was.

I would like to get the car to around 300bhp on the standard turbo, what would you say the car will do 60 in?

[ANDY black s13]

e46 m3 is 1549 kgs (wiki), a s14/14a is 1280 (ish) wiki says 1253 kgs for s14 either way the M3 is a fair bit heavier at nearly 300 kgs

280 > 300 won't drop the 0 to 60 much imo,maybe 10th of a second at best is my guess if it was + 20 lb-ft as well

a 300 bhp 13/14 on stock suspension with a pair of decent rear tyres can do mid 13 second 1/4 miles

I think they are (imo) the best money for performance car out there,parts are cheap
and they make a good all rounder as in drift/drag/grip,the 13 hatch is more practical
the 14's boot is tiny and it feels bigger than the 10mm track width difference over the 13

The CA verses SR debate will never be resolved just like the conflict in the middle east

remove as much weight as possible,it is multi beneficial,braking,cornering + acceleration
imo a stock 270 degree thrust t28 is 1 bar max for reliability
the more weight you remove is the same as adding power,without tweaking the engine

you could do a lot worse than spend a few quid on an S body ,gambling/drugs/whores etc

[frisbee]

Adding power is pretty cheap, you can increase the power by 50% for about a grand.

Removing weight isn't really as easy, its going to be hard to remove more than 50-100 kg. And anything you take out is probably going to be added back in with bigger wheels and brakes, chassis stiffening, a cage etc.. There is the obvious and easy stuff like the rear seats and spare wheel

A standard-ish car is great fun on track, it has a sort of fifties GP car feel, constantly moving, lots of feedback, it really feels like you are driving the car and exploring its limits. As you make your car better it becomes a lot quicker but less fun, the limit becomes so much sharper and if you go over it, it is a lot harder to recover.

But near standard or heavily modified its a great car on track. I just can't see any appeal in taking a FWD car or a low power RWD car on track, so something like a 200 is perfect for me.

[skyshack]

If you want to know about SX as a track car better ask Adam Lockwood he raced S14 in Nippon challenge. Holds Donington park lap record for his 300bhp class.

This may be a bit outside of budget but you don't have to buy a SR20. Must have been sold or parted out a long time ago.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/fs-96-roa...r-t257181.html

1:05 range at Phoenix Intl Raceway. To give you an idea, pole position for the Grand Am Cup last year was a 1:07.5 in a Brumos Porsche 997

Don't get a 14 get the real deal a 13.
Ok there is 5 to 10 years more rot.

For acceleration bhp/weight is key. As Andy Black as said S is quite light.

For track top speed doesn't really figure but RS13 is in top 15 of all time lowest drag cars ever (and 5 of them aren't proper cars or are not production). This makes a 276 bhp RS13 as fast as a 316 bhp 1995 M3 E36 coupé. Every bhp not used to push air out the way is either a bhp that the engine doesn't need to make or a bhp extra to accelerate the car. They will never be able to match the RS13 or enter the top 20 unless they make something like the VW XL 1.

But "wow" factor?
Parker's guide "anonymous". S13 was "exciting" and "dangerous", two words you won't find in any other Parker's review.
JC on Top Gear dismissed the somewhat sharper S14a as BMW 2 door saloon. Should have parked them side by side, 3" difference between a saloon based coupé and proper coupé is quite easy to see then. He chose a modified Fiat Tipo in drag with a V6. It was also up against a tub of lard from Ford.
http://jalopnik.com/5973538/watch-a-...s-of-the-1990s

[sparkyhx]

same here - I changed from DS2500's to yellows cos of the price hike and not looked back. DS2500's I was getting very bad pad transfer, causing juddering, not only did a new set of yellows cost a lot less they also cured the pad transfer issues I was starting to experience on dans 315 kit and i could feel no different on stopping power.

Not put them on the BMW yet cos the existing pads were pretty much brand new. but TBH whatever I currently have, behaved impecably at Snetterton on 20 minute sessions. I did go Super Blue on fluid though

[crazyshad1]

I think they make a great track car, but an uncomfortable road car.

They are so cheap to modify. My first mods would be, coilovers, arb's, brakes, front mount, fuel pump, 3" exhaust and 1 bar of boost. You'll have a capable and quick car.

Maybe both my 14a's brakes were crap, or i'm just heavy on them but they were not upto the job.

I tried

red stuff pads and brembo groved discs - good for fast road

Apex 'big foot' kit - warped them at the ring and had pad glaze.

K sports front and rear - one of the best modifications i've done. They'll easily lock-up at 140mph, on a set of r888's on a dry track.

[chrispy]

Were they k-sport 6 pots on the rear? where did you get those from? You got any pictures of them too?

[crazyshad1]

8 front, 6 rear and 356mm all around.

Click on my username, search my threads for my for sale add. They'll be on there.

[ANDY black s13]

My 2p on brakes is I had on my 14a drilled/grooved Black Diamond stock size disc's F&R with yellows stuffs
with goodridge hoses with stock calipers and a Tegiwa Brake master Cylinder stopper
and was a good upgrade over the tired stock set up car came with

I then fitted a K sport 8 pot's and 356mm disc's with the same rear set up as above
pedal travel with the stock BMC was a tad longer but the braking power was impressive
I kept over braking for a few days till got used to how quick the car slowed down
I had/have good rubber but could lock the fronts still at speed,

I had to pull the ABS fuses/relays as the Ksports seemed to be making the abs trigger even though it wasn't locking
as in not really using the brakes hard it would sometimes 'pulse' the pedal
with fuses etc pulled out it braked normally and pedal never pulsed again even under hard braking